What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (36 Viewers)

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$150 Ebay LEDs tailight modified to make it look like an O6-07. I'm currently putting on a rear whale tale so that's why the rear looks like that. Weird lighting effect from photo but the red is the same shade, just the bulb inside made it look a little darker.

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What was the actual eBay ad if you have it and what is the spray.......you used...
 
What was the actual eBay ad if you have it and what is the spray.......you used...


At the time of my purchase the listing price was $174 then i had a 15% coupon for automotive parts so that put it just a little under 150. This is the light

98-05 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ LED Tail Lights Rear Brake Lamps Red/Clear 4PCs


This is the spray i used to get the clear red, it matches the tail light perfectly after 4 coats.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005257R0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
@FxFormat ...very curious if these would fit the 98 Lexus LX
 
@FxFormat ...very curious if these would fit the 98 Lexus LX


I think they use the same size lights and mounting points, however, you'd have to do some splice and dice to rig the lights up as the sockets and wiring schematics are different. If you've ever dealt with wires before this should be a walk in the park, just trace which wire goes to what and tap it into the LEDs wire on the light itself.
 
Fixed lumbar support in drivers seat, it wasn't working at all.

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Disassembled motor box and everything seemed to be mechanically ok.

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So I pulled out the motor, attached the plug contact plate (at the top in the above pic), plugged it into the wire harness and it worked!

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So my conclusion is the connection between the plug contact plate and the motor's contacts inside the box was simply dirty and needed to be jiggled or jostled or otherwise cleaned. Or it could have been the harness connector contacts. Either way I reassembled everything and it works now, albeit weakly. It retracts easily but I need to remove my body weight to allow it to extend, and it goes reeeally slow. But at least it's moving again.
 
Bled and refilled my AHC fluid. So easy!
 
Did the first step in a transmission fluid exchange by dropping and cleaning the pan and filter. The old ATF looked surprisingly good for having 65k on it and didn't smell burned at all, but it did show slight discoloration when I put some on a paper towel. Magnets looked really good too just typical metal sludge with no large chunks or shavings. I did collect a sample for Blackstone Labs since I was interested in how well the the transmission has worn over time.

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I greased the u-joints while I was in there and hadn't cleaned them up yet so that's why you see grease at the seals. Looking to replace those in the near future as well

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You can see the metal sludge on the magnets and where I touched one of them. Thankfully no large shavings and overall everything looked really good

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Old ATF didn't look too bad, I've seen much worse, but it did have some browning to it once I saw it compared to fresh on a towel.

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Then refilled with 4.5qts and went for a drive. This process took much longer than expected as it was really difficult trying to break loose the old FIPG to remove the pan. Cleaning the pan, magnets, filter, and removing all of the old FIPG on both the pan and transmission took 2hrs alone as I tried to get everything as clean as possible. I will pull my trans cooler hose next Saturday to complete the fluid exchange, but for now I am thoroughly enjoying the smoother shifts!
 
Painted the front grill, it was looking weathered and beat up from rock chips, also hated the chrome so i shot it in Graphite metallic wheel paint, and cleared it with a 2K Clear. This stuff is unbelievable, it's as close to autobody grade clear as you can get in a can. $22 a can though :(

Also painted the tow hitch too, too much rust and paint was chipping off. If you live in the rust bowl, good luck getting that tow hitch off. It broke my breakerbar, bolt didn't budge, took it to my shop and put my IR 2235TiMax to it and it was pounding it for a straight minute before that bolt came out. I'm so glad the captive weld didn't break off in the process, i expected it to.

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I spend the entire week (except one rainout day) working on the LC. Some projects are finished, some aren't

Suspension (done)
(1) OME Heavy rear spring lift, new TB's, and OME shocks
(2) SPC UCA's from Slee

Electrical (close but not quite finished)
(1) New Slee main battery tray and new battery installed
(2) New Slee aux battery and ARB compressor tray plus new battery installed.
(3) Negative cable run from Main battery to Aux battery ground. Aux battery ground connector is soldered on and terminated.
(4) Positive cable run from Main battery to relay. Relay end connector is soldered on and terminated.
(5) Positive cable run from relay to aux battery. Both end connecters are soldered and terminated.
(6) Battery controller. Not quite finished but close

ARB dual air compressor
(1) Installed and tested
(2) Added air locker solenoids for future.
(3) Wired compressor control and air locker thru the firewall but not done in the cabin.

Rear bumper. Still not done. Waiting on my son to have some time to help me put it on. I had to fab something to use for the frame weld nut that snapped off. If it works I'll post pics :D

Stereo :censor: Not a fan of installing stereo's. It's kind of in the dash but I'm waiting on some "I-crap" that makes it work with my phone so I haven't bolted it in solid yet.

Routed the "so-called" amp bypass harness out of the stereo area and onto the passenger floor board (with the dual battery controller and ARB switch harness . The console and seats are coming out as soon as I get some free time. That's when I'll finish the stereo and other wiring.

Side note, my window control switches were intermittent for the passenger side front, occasionally intermittent for the drivers side front, didn't work at all for the passenger side rear, and worked fine for the drivers side rear. When I pulled the door panel to install a new speaker... did I mention that I hate installing stereos?... I pulled the window control assembly. I took it apart as far as it would go, cleaned it up, and inspected it. The front switches were both broken out of the housing. I tried to glue it back together (super glue) and it worked but I don't think it's going to hold up. I wonder if the switch assembly is still available for a decent price?

I'm glad this week is over. Time to get back to work and rest up
 
Replaced right inner tie rod, but couldn't get clamp off dust boot on left side in the limited time I had left. Otherwise second side was going to be much easier. Now alignment needs to be adjusted but I will give the dust boot another go in the morning assuming it doesn't snow too much tonight.

Also about 1/3 way through removing wood trim, so my interior looks like junk at the moment. PO must've spilled a couple cokes in there so I can't remove one of the seat heater switches.

Ordered hoses for heater T replacement project next weekend or the weekend after if I am still cleaning up my mess from this weekend.
 
October is "Rust Prevention" month.......(part 2 working my way forward) this area is the worst, spring buckets and the shock mounts, then the welds....
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Wirebrush....more wirebrush then Rustoleum rust reformer.....the final step will be fluid film.
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While I'm under there.......why not put in the ToughDog Adjustable Foam Shocks...

Longer for more droop, bigger for more cushion, adjustable cause I like to change my up my ride.......
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Droop: With the ome's the tires were about an inch off the ground, with the TD's I had to jack the car about 2" to get the wheels back on.

Test Drive: I set it on the softest setting #1 then worked my way up to the 4th click. Very nice 1st ride, can't wait to get in the dirt with them.
 
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Replaced my steering rack with a new OEM unit. Old one was a full POS remanufacture.
The truck sort of kicked my @r$e.
BTW, the White line poly bushings are a tad too big for the 1998 steering rack. So much that I could not get them installed.
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Will also have to replace a steering arm because the PO used a BFH on it, at some point
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Do you mind posting where you purchased the rack and what you paid for it @bluesquirrel?
 

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