I followed up with Slee. They said sometime this summer…we’ll see.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
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We have a new cover designed. The issue now is trying to get a cost effective way to manufacture them. The reason we stopped the previous run was that they would have had to sell for $130 per cover using the previous method of doing them. We are looking at a way to do them and not have to raise the price.
You’ve probably already thought of this and looked into 3D. Maybe some of the guys already doing cruiser stuff? @BenCC @PerryParts @LJE
New brake booster with accumulator.
I've actually held off on ordering a set of Slee terminals to design some terminal covers around purely because I keep thinking that the official @sleeoffroad ones are just around the corner, haha.
I've done several battery terminal cover designs for Moroso and VGate terminals that I sell through LJE - the flexible TPU prints *slow* compared to the CF-ASA that I manufacture the rest of my products in, but it's totally doable - just not super cost effective. (but certainly less than $130, ouch!).
If anyone has a set of those terminals they'd loan me for a couple days in exchange for a finished terminal cover, I could absolutely design something. I'd even upload the file so that anyone could print one themselve if they didn't want to purchase through me - I don't love how expensive my terminal covers are ($25-ish for a positive cover, these would probably be a little higher due to size), but again, the print time sorta pushes the price that way for me.
Or, if there was a "group buy" sorta thing that'd probably help lower the price too - knowing I could just dedicate a machine or two to nothing but terminal covers for a week or something would help with cost.
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I was thinking Slee could hire you to produce. Just thinking out loud.
I think the old ones were MJF printed I'd have to take a closer look at it, but that was my initial impression of the cover
Preventative or problematic?
Problematic. It failed at 190k...fortunately was just pulling out of my driveway.
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Just replaced my air filter box on our 2004 with brand new genuine. Outrageous list price but Serra’s crazy sale and free shipping from Serra made the pill a bit easier to choke down.
Blackstone oil analysis has been showing high silica levels, and they keep asking me if I have an intake leak. Finally had a local shop smoke test it and sure enough there was a totally invisible to the naked eye crack above the outlet, before the MAF. Thought about JB weld but then thought “how will I know if my repair holds?” And decided to bite the bullet.
It did come with a “free” new filter so there’s that
Blackstone oil analysis has been showing high silica levels, and they keep asking me if I have an intake leak. Finally had a local shop smoke test it and sure enough there was a totally invisible to the naked eye crack above the outlet, before the MAF. Thought about JB weld but then thought “how will I know if my repair holds?” And decided to bite the bullet.
It did come with a “free” new filter so there’s that
Forgot to share the 3rd row aw mats, not the whole cargo area,
Replaced driver and passenger front door lock actuator assemblies. Was well overdue. I still need to do the other 3 doors.
While I had the driver door panel off I was also going to replace my driver window seal rubber at the same time. Turns out I couldn't get the window off. One of the two bolts attaching the window to the regulator is just spinning (pictured below). It must have been over-torqued in the past and the threads are gone. Probably need to drill it out and then try a hardware store bolt/nut instead of buying a new regulator.
While I had the driver door panel off I was also going to replace my driver window seal rubber at the same time. Turns out I couldn't get the window off. One of the two bolts attaching the window to the regulator is just spinning (pictured below). It must have been over-torqued in the past and the threads are gone. Probably need to drill it out and then try a hardware store bolt/nut instead of buying a new regulator.
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With a low torque stripped threads situation, if you can get a screwdriver tip under the bolt washer, you can apply a separation force so that the bolt will back out when you loosen it. It’s worth a try…
Can you please share you bought this? Is there a part number? Thx
555 lower ball joints today. Ironman torsion bars reinforcement brackets. If time permits, I'll install Asfir full aluminum skids
Pulled and twisted it out of the regulator arm with some needle nose vise grips. Sketchy situation because of the glass being attached and of course not wanting it to break.
Anyways, got the window seal replaced. Replaced above bolt with new one from the hardware store. For reference if anyone runs into this a M6 x 1.0 flange bolt at 16mm length (longer than OEM) fits fine and won't get hung up on anything in the door panel as the window rolls up and down.
Hopefully won't have as much wind noise in my left ear at highway speeds.
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Excellent job…
Any time I encounter that situation of stripped threads, I hope that it’s the bolt that stripped, because replacing a nut-cert or welded nut is more difficult than replacing a bolt.
I also run a thread tap with a dab of Rapid-Tap through the nut-cert or welded nut to ensure that the threads are clean, and do not bugger up a brand new bolt.
Yeah I was preparing for the threads on the captured nut welded into the regulator to be mangled, and that I'd have to drill them out completely and just use the hole as a pass through for a bolt and locking nut. But fortunately the threads were fine.
Cleared out those threads as best I could and the new bolt went in clean.
Posts like these remind me that I should take advantage of the next sale and get a new one to keep on-hand.Problematic. It failed at 190k...fortunately was just pulling out of my driveway.
While on the subject, has anyone heard of swapping in a Bosch iBooster in replacement of the OEM Brake Booster? I know people have done it on other projects, but I've searched and not seen anything for our platform. This is (at the moment) a passing curiosity.
The LX got some new underwear!
This Coastal off-road skid plate kit is OK - the fact that they expect you to use a bunch of non-metric bolts that they include is dumb.
There's not a *single* non-metric fastener on this truck, and while I usually carry every single tool to tear apart any piece of this truck, SAE wrenches/sockets are not among those.
So I did the smart thing and ordered some JIS bolts to replace the SAE bolts that were included in the kit. Why Coastal doesn't include these from the start is beyond me.
Also - if you don't have a diff drop (I don't, because AHC is awesome), then some of the bolts they include are too short. They include spacers plates to accommodate a non-diff dropped truck (which is nice), but then the bolts they include (or the proper JIS bolts I ordered in the same length) ended up too short. I improvised and got it to work, but again, seems like they only thought this part through halfway. Just odd.
This Coastal off-road skid plate kit is OK - the fact that they expect you to use a bunch of non-metric bolts that they include is dumb.
There's not a *single* non-metric fastener on this truck, and while I usually carry every single tool to tear apart any piece of this truck, SAE wrenches/sockets are not among those.
So I did the smart thing and ordered some JIS bolts to replace the SAE bolts that were included in the kit. Why Coastal doesn't include these from the start is beyond me.
Also - if you don't have a diff drop (I don't, because AHC is awesome), then some of the bolts they include are too short. They include spacers plates to accommodate a non-diff dropped truck (which is nice), but then the bolts they include (or the proper JIS bolts I ordered in the same length) ended up too short. I improvised and got it to work, but again, seems like they only thought this part through halfway. Just odd.