What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

^this
 
Mrtube00 said:
Replaced the original CV Axles at 263k miles with OEM from Toyota. I knew the right front was really bad when I did the bearings recently, ordered the parts, and didn't quite get to it before coming home last Monday and it went. Had to lock the center diff but it made it home fine. It was good that I had the parts on hand so by Wednesday had both L&R replaced and all good now.

My two cents - for those contemplating whether to remove only the steering knuckle and axle hub assembly from the lower arm (as demonstrated in several online videos) - save yourself some time and energy and remove the assembly from both the upper and lower (as per the shop manual). It's a straight shot to R&R the axle with the entire assembly moved out of the way.
Click to expand...
Out of curiosity, and for science... how fast were you going with the center diff locked?
 
akfjord said:
Looks great! I really need to do this. Curious to know what gauge wire you ran and what was your path? Dis you add another distribution block at the rear? Thanks!
Click to expand...
I used 10 gauge. Went thru the firewall at the large grommet on the drivers side. Then under the door sills to the rear cargo panel. No distribution block at the back since I was only wiring one outlet.

A fridge doesn’t pull anywhere near 15 amps. 8 gauge is overkill. I’ve ran this set up on 3 different trucks for 10 years and never had any issues.
 
ChroniclerCruiser said:
Snapped a wheel lug trying to get the passenger rear wheel off. Last person to do the rotation was... me. So either I over-torqued the lug nut last time (which is weird 'cause I do it to 97 ft/lbs with a calibrated torque wrench) or it was bound to go out after 25 years of service.

Other than that, I got a reverse camera installed on my aftermarket head unit. I'll probably do a write-up on that at some point.
Click to expand...
Finally got around to fixing this; snapped a 2nd lug on the same wheel hub in the process but past-me bought extras just in case so it went well.

When my starter went out and I replaced it, I noticed some of the air lines were cracked. Ordered them through Impex and threw them on; while I was in there I replaced my negative battery terminal with a RECOIL brand one from Amazon. The old one was grody and had electrical tape that was peeling off so this was more for piece of mind than anything.

Old vs New PS Air Lines.webp


Recoil Negative Battery Terminal.webp
 
SIZZLE said:
I used 10 gauge. Went thru the firewall at the large grommet on the drivers side. Then under the door sills to the rear cargo panel. No distribution block at the back since I was only wiring one outlet.

A fridge doesn’t pull anywhere near 15 amps. 8 gauge is overkill. I’ve ran this set up on 3 different trucks for 10 years and never had any issues.
Click to expand...
Makes sense and thanks for the reply! This was my plan regarding the path and using 10awg as well. In my case the fridge is connected to a Dometic PLB40 battery. That battery is charged either by that rear dc outlet or by solar. My understanding is the PLB40 only draws 8amps so 10awg should be sufficient.
 
akfjord said:
Makes sense and thanks for the reply! This was my plan regarding the path and using 10awg as well. In my case the fridge is connected to a Dometic PLB40 battery. That battery is charged either by that rear dc outlet or by solar. My understanding is the PLB40 only draws 8amps so 10awg should be sufficient.
Click to expand...

Yessir… #10awg copper wire at 12vdc is good for up to 10a at 15’.

IMG_3033.webp
 
door off, and starting on drilling out spot welds to get the outer skin off and see what I can do about this bent pillar
PXL_20260506_010708683.webp
 
Replaced my steering rack bushings with some super pro poly. Did it the quick and dirty way by pushing them out the top and pushing the new ones in with a piece of all-thread and a couple of nuts.
 
About to do the same. I assume you have a 1998-2002? The outer sleeve don’t come out, just the rubber and inner sleeve, right?
 
Just finished some mega maintenance that started with the steering rack, and quickly snowballed into this giant list of new parts, some was found bad some was "while Im in here." All OEM Toyota unless it says otherwise:

Hood struts (Not OEM)
Radiator
Radiator hoses and clamps

The two small hoses off the oil cooler pipe and new clamps

Steering rack, hoses, reservoir (GM one)(poly bushings back in new rack)

Cv Axles with drive flanges and new clips

Timing belt service with fan bracket and water pump (Aisin kit)

New thermostat
Radiator shroud
Valve cover gaskets
Spark plugs and coils
Tensioner, idler, serp belt

Also did a transmission flush and front diff fluid. Will change the rest of the fluids when my wallet stops smoking!
 
Replaced A/C evap seal, hopefully this one lasts a while. This job is simple, but at the same time...it sucks immensely. The biggest hurdle for me was getting the seal to actually stay in its place; it kept falling out.
 
Scotty UZJ100 said:
Replaced my steering rack bushings with some super pro poly. Did it the quick and dirty way by pushing them out the top and pushing the new ones in with a piece of all-thread and a couple of nuts.
Click to expand...
How much shake you got in the steering wheel now? I got enough that its noticeable by feel and by eye but I also wonder if that's also due to my cheap m/t tires and probably blown shocks
 
Replaced hood and lift gate struts, all 3 wiper blades and the gas cap. Still need to get around to changing all the fluids, filters and greasing the drive shafts. And is in desperate need of a deep cleaning on the inside.
 
Got a new blower motor because mine had gotten pretty loud… pulled out the old one to discover it was full of mouse fluff from an infestation I dealt with last year!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom