What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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Finally got around to replacing the frozen bell crank. The hand brake is not super powerful but it is still nice to have. You know, considering the whole brake boost fail thing.

Thanks to @Trunk Monkey for the write-up and @OTRAMM for the helpful video.

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Part 1 of winch install. @TRAIL TAILOR hidden winch mount and comeup 12.5 rs slim seal trail etc. Put it back together and will resume with controller soon.
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I'm a little concerned by the split ring washers that came with the 4x bolts that connect the winch to the mount plate. Any tips on where to get the right washer (17 mm bolt)? I won't be pulling with this winch for a little bit.
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New genuine inner LH tie rod end on our ‘99 JDM this afternoon. Part replacement took almost no time—persuading the new boot to go over the rack and attempting to install the genuine boot clamp for about an hour were terrible. Finally gave up and found two worm-drive clamps I could daisy-chain😂


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Break. Reply to previous post:
Part 1 of winch install. @TRAIL TAILOR hidden winch mount and comeup 12.5 rs slim seal trail etc. Put it back together and will resume with controller soon.
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I'm a little concerned by the split ring washers that came with the 4x bolts that connect the winch to the mount plate. Any tips on where to get the right washer (17 mm bolt)? I won't be pulling with this winch for a little bit.
View attachment 4130026
If you have an old fashioned hardware store, just take one of those bolts and see if their 5/8” washers are big enough to fit around them—if not browse until you find something close enough. (I have the same mount and winch but no recollection of any washer issues)
 
@ODSTbee those are lock washers. You can use nylock nuts and regular washers from any hardware store.
 
Thank y'all, that should be easy enough to find. I was timid about throwing any washer on without talking to someone who's been there. Also, I got the mount second-hand so it may or may not be missing some pieces--though everything else seems to be here.
 
A few days ago at this point, but stopped at @sleeoffroad for a new front skid. They had it installed super quickly and it was great to chat with the guys for a bit!

Already got the first scrapes on it while doing Elephant Hill at Cruise Moab, so it's already paid for itself!

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Part 1 of winch install. @TRAIL TAILOR hidden winch mount and comeup 12.5 rs slim seal trail etc. Put it back together and will resume with controller soon.
View attachment 4130025
I'm a little concerned by the split ring washers that came with the 4x bolts that connect the winch to the mount plate. Any tips on where to get the right washer (17 mm bolt)? I won't be pulling with this winch for a little bit.
View attachment 4130026
What is the rating on that winch? 12,500 pounds of pull power?

If there are four bolts that mount the winch to the vehicle, I would make sure to use grade 8 hardware and washers, or in metric, 10.9 or 12.9 rated. Do not use cheap hardware…

It would really suck to have that powerful winch break the mounting bolts and pull itself out of the truck.
 
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I have been chasing a coolant leaking for months. Finally I was able to figure it out.

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The lower outlet is no longer round. 😒

I replaced the radiator with a Denso unit and all is well.
 
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Finally got my 04 back. Lot of work done. List of mods:

ARB Front Bumper
ARB Solis 36 Floods
OME UCA's
OME 2865 springs
OME 303001 Torsion Bars
Bilstein shocks
Slee Rear Bumper
TEQ Custom headlights
Revel exhaust with turndown pipe
Warn VR EVO 12-S Winch
Heretic 40" light bar
Prinsu Roof Rack with 4 camp lights
Prinsu Roof Rack
Auxbeam RA80 mounted on Artisan Garage engine bay mount
Auxbeam Switch Panel mounted on Artisan Garage mount

Next steps are sliders and skids. Most likely going to run up the road to BudBuilt and see if they can make some for me...

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New to MUD and the 100 series. Did the first interior detail since owning (featuring a miriad of petrified french fries). Next up, identifying a small ingress of water to the passenger floorboard. Starting with cleaning the sunroof drains.

Welcome to IH8MUD

Is the water ingress onto the passenger floorboard related to rain? Or to AC use?

Check to see if, during AC usage, water is dripping from the bottom of the air-conditioning coil housing.
If so, you need to replace the cooler packing… Toyota # 88578-47040.

This part is a small foam, worm like seal that installs into a groove in the cooler housing.

Best practice is to liberally apply silicone grease to the new cooler packing and massage it in. Then install.
This prevents the cooler packing from falling out of place during install, keeps the cooler packing from drying and failing, and increases the sealing ability of the new cooler packing.

Never use RTV or sealant on the cooler packing… you would literally be glueing together the cooler housing if you did that. Not good practice for an item that may require service.

Also, clean out the AC drain. The stock configuration of the 100 Series AC drain dumps out directly on top of the right hand front sway bar bushing mount… i’ll bet yours is rusty.

$12 AC extension kit from Cruiser Garage is excellent. Highly recommended.





 
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Welcome to IH8MUD

Is the water ingress onto the passenger floorboard related to rain? Or to AC use?

Check to see if, during AC usage, water is dripping from the bottom of the air-conditioning coil housing.
If so, you need to replace the cooler packing… Toyota # 88578-47040.

This part is a small foam, worm like seal that installs into a groove in the cooler housing.

Best practice is to liberally apply silicone grease to the new cooler packing and massage it in. Then install.
This prevents the cooler packing from falling out of place during install, keeps the cooler packing from drying and failing, and increases the sealing ability of the new cooler packing.

Never use RTV or sealant on the cooler packing… you would literally be glueing together the cooler housing if you did that. Not good practice for an item that may require service.

Also, clean out the AC drain. The stock configuration of the 100 Series AC drain dumps out directly on top of the right hand front sway bar bushing mount… i’ll bet yours is rusty.

$12 AC extension kit from Cruiser Garage is excellent. Highly recommended.





Also, check the AC housing cover on your truck… does it have a vertical door panel to change the cabin air filters?

If not, it is possible to change the cover to add the door for cabin air filters.

 
Welcome to IH8MUD

Is the water ingress onto the passenger floorboard related to rain? Or to AC use?

Check to see if, during AC usage, water is dripping from the bottom of the air-conditioning coil housing.
If so, you need to replace the cooler packing… Toyota # 88578-47040.

This part is a small foam, worm like seal that installs into a groove in the cooler housing.

Best practice is to liberally apply silicone grease to the new cooler packing and massage it in. Then install.
This prevents the cooler packing from falling out of place during install, keeps the cooler packing from drying and failing, and increases the sealing ability of the new cooler packing.

Never use RTV or sealant on the cooler packing… you would literally be glueing together the cooler housing if you did that. Not good practice for an item that may require service.

Also, clean out the AC drain. The stock configuration of the 100 Series AC drain dumps out directly on top of the right hand front sway bar bushing mount… i’ll bet yours is rusty.

$12 AC extension kit from Cruiser Garage is excellent. Highly recommended.





Thanks for the insight, gonna check that out. For now, I don't notice moisture accumulation from the coil-housing (I did have that issue on my previous vehicle, a 1st gen sequoia.) The water appears after rain. In between lectures this afternoon I went ahead and popped out the sunroof deflector and sunroof glass to access the drain ports and ran some weedeater trimmer cable down them. There was debris covering the entrance to the drain on the right side (the side of the cab that the water is accumulating in) so hopefully it really was that easy and not a windshield issue.
 
You’ve probably already thought of this and looked into 3D. Maybe some of the guys already doing cruiser stuff? @BenCC @PerryParts @LJE
The main issue is the heat of the engine bay. We have tried filaments that can be done with a Bambu printer that has the highest temp ratings and they do not survive. Up to about 230 degrees all is ok, but once you exceed 250 then they start deforming. I doubt TPU will be ok. Believe me if you saw the number of test pieces on my desk you will think I am terminal cover obsessed.

From some testing we have done, black car, heat soaked engine bay, AZ mid summer we would like to be able to handle about 280 degrees.

The issue is most extrusion machines melt the filament to print the part, but now we don't want it to melt again. Once you move away from extrusion the price jumps.

If someone in AZ or some other hot place has a need for some, I am prepared to print a set and send them out for real world testing. Just shoot me an email at christo@sleeoffroad.com.

We even went so far as to make a change to the newest terminals to better accept the covers as designed but they will still retrofit to the old terminals.
 
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Nice! How's the access on this job? Do you need to remove the fan or rad to do it?
So it seems most can pull it out the bottom but I couldn't idk if it was because of my CSF radiator or what but I hat to pull it out the top just had to push the power steering pump around and remove the the intake tube and coolant overflow bottle.
 
The main issue is the heat of the engine bay. We have tried filaments that can be done with a Bambu printer that has the highest temp ratings and they do not survive. Up to about 230 degrees all is ok, but once you exceed 250 then they start deforming. I doubt TPU will be ok. Believe me if you saw the number of test pieces on my desk you will think I am terminal cover obsessed.

From some testing we have done, black car, heat soaked engine bay, AZ mid summer we would like to be able to handle about 280 degrees.

The issue is most extrusion machines melt the filament to print the part, but now we don't want it to melt again. Once you move away from extrusion the price jumps.

If someone in AZ or some other hot place has a need for some, I am prepared to print a set and send them out for real world testing. Just shoot me an email at christo@sleeoffroad.com.

We even went so far as to make a change to the newest terminals to better accept the covers as designed but they will still retrofit to the old terminals.
Email sent.
 
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