where did you get the parts? is this dealer only?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
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Thanks. Yeah, I also have a CSF rad. Wonder if I'll have the same problem.
Yeah I got the parts from Fred Anderson on one of the dealer sales. I only did the one side and I think all told it came to $75 or so. Sure beats the $1k+ repair estimates I've seen thrown around. The following parts are what I used, note that they are right/left specific and as always you will want to verify PNs against your VIN on Partsouq.
9021304001 Type C Washer
9021306013 Type C Washer
9024908075 Pin
9050620033 Tension Spring (2)
4762560022 Parking Brake Bell Crank Left Hand
4762960010 Bellcrank Bracket Left Hand
4763460010 Bellcrank Boot Left Hand
Sil-Glyde brake grease (from the parts store)
I will also need to get 4763930020 Bellcrank Stopper Bolt because I snapped mine trying to get it off for reuse.
Could also be a year thing. I believe 03+ has different lines down there that might give you more room. Anyways I found it easier with 2 people 1 person up top pulling and general taking the weight while the person below moves things around and gives a push if needed.
took the ol girl into the shop to look into the ac not being as cold as it should and Found that road debris had put a hole the condenser and a hard line going to the compressor somehow. $1500 later and I guess I’ll have start learning how to do HVAC stuff. I’m guessing they opened the filter box in the can because it started leaking water onto the passenger floorboard again. I didn’t have a replacement gasket so I cut up a closed cell foam piece of weather strip that fit in pretty snug. Time will tell if it holds up. I’ll have another actual gasket on standby just in case. That’s probably my least favorite thing to access. Real PITA.
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100 custom axle for SAS build in progress. 5" wider than an 80 axle.
Jason
TT
Jason
TT
How is Redding doing after all the flooding? I grew up in Yreka about 90 miles north of you.
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No prolonged issues to my knowledge.
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Swapped out the (awful, imho) aftermarket rims that came on our ‘99 JDM and replaced them with reconditioned factory rims. And turned the tires right side out 
.
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This morning was fluid changes, front and rear differentials and t case. Went with amsoil 75w-90 across the board.
On my list of things to do. Did you replace the drain and fill seals or did you use the same ones?
The crush washers? I buy this kit from amazon. I think I replaced all drain plugs 3 years ago with OEM.
Today was rear AC vent extenders from Artisan Garage and a new rear hatch seal.
Rear Heat Duct Extenders | 1998-2007 100 Series Landcruiser/LX470
Extend the rear heater ducts/vents in your 100 series Landcruiser/LX470 today! For reasons unknown to everyone, Toyota decided to bury half of the rear heater vents in the 100 Series under the rails for the front seats. While this isn't ideal even with stock floor mats, it's is made even worse...
theartisangarage.com
FWIW, I've been running (and selling) TPU covers for about a year now, and zero issues from myself or any customers. Of course, that doesn't mean that there couldn't be some, but just as one data point.
I certainly wouldn't want to put any true long-term mechanical load on the material at that temp - because it absolutely would sag\creep over time. But for a terminal cover that's going to sit there without a mechanical load? I don't think it'd be an issue.
I'm also thinking about the number of thermoplastics I see in engine bays, and they also seem to survive (like, cable loom clamps, zip ties, etc). None of those have much of a load on them either, but more than terminal covers do.
But, now I'm curious — time for some science! I'll stick a TPU cover in my oven at various temps (shhh, don't tell my wife) and report back in.
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Alright - coming back to this having done some science today!
Here's the setup - block of wood on top of some foil, on top of a pizza pan. Zip tie & terminal cover side by side.
I started at 200F - once it reached that temp, I let it heat soak for 15 minutes. I had a BBQ thermometer in there as well to verify (because I have trust issues - the oven would overshoot, but eventually settle to roughly the correct temp).
I also kept the convection fan on the entire time, which I feel like does a pretty good job of simulating an engine bay.
So - how'd it do? Zero issues at 220F, 250F, or even 280F.
I let it heat soak at 280F for half an hour once the BBQ thermometer right next to the part read 280F - the TPU didn't get sticky, I could squeeze the part hard and it'd come exactly back to shape without permanent deformation, etc. This matches my experiences (and as far as I know, the experiences of the folks that have bought them from me) over the past year. The oven air temp floated between 278F and 290F, and even with the radiant heat from the top heating element it still did great.
So @sleeoffroad - might be worth checking out TPU for the covers! This is some shore hardness 95A stuff. I've found to it be nicely resilient to oil/grease/etc as well.
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Put in a breaker and fuse block to upgrade the outlet in the cargo area so that I can run a fridge.
Looks great! I really need to do this. Curious to know what gauge wire you ran and what was your path? Dis you add another distribution block at the rear? Thanks!
To deliver 15 amps to a long constant load ( such as a refrigerator ) at 12v DC, and maintain < 3% voltage drop on a 15’ wire length, #8 awg copper wire is required as best practice. Unless you like fires. 125% safety factor is important because overheated wiring will burn your wiring harness. As is voltage drop, because voltage drop will KILL a compressor motor, due to overcurrent, and is likely to cause an unplanned thermal event and spontaneous deconstruction. Voltage drop below nominal nameplate rating = higher current because load resistance does not change.
The car audio guys will tell you otherwise, but the math does not lie.
I love the circuit breaker with fuse block setup
. My advice is to trust the engineering and do it properly.
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Changed out a worn out drive flange that was increasing the clunk. Knowing it was worn and changing it before it required driving around with CDL locked was the best option.
Replaced the original CV Axles at 263k miles with OEM from Toyota. I knew the right front was really bad when I did the bearings recently, ordered the parts, and didn't quite get to it before coming home last Monday and it went. Had to lock the center diff but it made it home fine. It was good that I had the parts on hand so by Wednesday had both L&R replaced and all good now.
My two cents - for those contemplating whether to remove only the steering knuckle and axle hub assembly from the lower arm (as demonstrated in several online videos) - save yourself some time and energy and remove the assembly from both the upper and lower (as per the shop manual). It's a straight shot to R&R the axle with the entire assembly moved out of the way.
My two cents - for those contemplating whether to remove only the steering knuckle and axle hub assembly from the lower arm (as demonstrated in several online videos) - save yourself some time and energy and remove the assembly from both the upper and lower (as per the shop manual). It's a straight shot to R&R the axle with the entire assembly moved out of the way.