What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (72 Viewers)

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Not worth trying to clean the baffles inside after the prep work for powder. I would just paint them with VHT paint.
I agree and yes I just did the exterior, but thought of VHT high temp paint as well.
 
I acquired a PAK MULE today. Used with lock excellent condition. Nice looking and very sturdy. It's an original pro version, but I'm going to need a high / low hitch adapter to be able to lay my tailgate down flat with out the tailgate resting on the cargo carrier. I do love it though. I was able to haul a huge recliner on it today with no issues. I think it's going to come in handy for many more future choirs and adventures!

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Blew up my center diff last weekend…

1.097:1 high range
3.31:1 low range
37x12.50r17 tires
4.30 gears in the diffs

Beginning to think 100s just can’t hang with the big dogs…

Threw in a spare center diff to get it back on the road. Will probably part-time it next time I have to open the case

1999 Lexus LX470 2-pinion center differential failure (316,000 miles)


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Rosen Sunvisor installed on my 1998. Their website says it fits some 100s. I got one for the driver side only.

All it needed was some longer m5 mounting bolts. I used 20mm but 15mm would probably work).

Clears the 12” wolfbox g900 mirror with no issue.



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Blew up my center diff last weekend…

1.097:1 high range
3.31:1 low range
37x12.50r17 tires
4.30 gears in the diffs

Beginning to think 100s just can’t hang with the big dogs…

Threw in a spare center diff to get it back on the road. Will probably part-time it next time I have to open the case

1999 Lexus LX470 2-pinion center differential failure (316,000 miles)


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Patch, you're definitely the guru here I will admit, but isn't that kind of high gearing still for 37s? Wouldn't adding 4.88s reduce the strain on everything even further and give you more control in the rocks? I've heard these t-cases are pretty robust.

I know the automatic definitely helps. Just thinking out loud really. Absolutely love seeing you test these rigs to their limits. Keep on ROCKING it!
 
Patch, you're definitely the guru here I will admit, but isn't that kind of high gearing still for 37s? Wouldn't adding 4.88s reduce the strain on everything even further and give you more control in the rocks? I've heard these t-cases are pretty robust.
Might be “high” for some but personally I think it’s right at the sweet spot. A 100 can’t really crawl anything anyway (out here in the east, anyway).

Momentum is nearly always required over here on the east coast. I’d be more worried about breaking an already weak pinion setup (in the front) if I go to 4.88s

At 7,060 lbs, my truck is just too heavy to crawl anything anymore…
 
Did lower control arms, #2 bushings and ahc "shock" bushings. Truck is finally silent again! LBJs were creaking and the shock bushings were so shot that eyelets were starting to make contact w/ the LCAs. I think it was time! What a pain though - ended up having to hacksaw them out of the eyelet.

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Rosen Sunvisor installed on my 1998. Their website says it fits some 100s. I got one for the driver side only.

All it needed was some longer m5 mounting bolts. I used 20mm but 15mm would probably work).

Clears the 12” wolfbox g900 mirror with no issue.



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What does that look like when put off to the door side? Biggest complaint with OEM is that it does not extend and sun still hits my eyes
you can slide it almost the full length of its bracket so can place it anywhere in the door window you’d like.
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Rosen Sunvisor installed on my 1998. Their website says it fits some 100s. I got one for the driver side only.

All it needed was some longer m5 mounting bolts. I used 20mm but 15mm would probably work).

Clears the 12” wolfbox g900 mirror with no issue.



View attachment 3997542View attachment 3997543

Sweet, answers a question for me. Have the visors already, and mirror inbound.
 
Did lower control arms, #2 bushings and ahc "shock" bushings. Truck is finally silent again! LBJs were creaking and the shock bushings were so shot that eyelets were starting to make contact w/ the LCAs. I think it was time! What a pain though - ended up having to hacksaw them out of the eyelet.

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Those are next on my to do list too. Not looking forward to it. My lower bjs have a tiny amount of play and I think it’s causing a little uneven tire wear on the front. Did you have any special pullers or presses for the No.2? I saw you had to hacksaw, just curious if you tried anything else prior to resorting to the saw.
 
Those are next on my to do list too. Not looking forward to it. My lower bjs have a tiny amount of play and I think it’s causing a little uneven tire wear on the front. Did you have any special pullers or presses for the No.2? I saw you had to hacksaw, just curious if you tried anything else prior to resorting to the saw.
Yeah I couldn’t scrap anything together for the shock bushings that were the right diameter. Was able to use the rented ball joint press from advance auto to get the new bushing into place.

For #2 frame bushing I rigged this up.
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Receiving cup is from the kit, threaded nipple is for 2” OD galvanized pipe and the rest I bought from McMaster Carr on rec from another thread in here for LCA replacement. Like $60 in hardware but couldn’t have done it without it.
 
Complete brake failure today - luckily it happened on start up so we weren't in motion. Have ordered a new motor/accumulator.

Condition of the Motor - Not Good.

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Only 135,000 miles and it failed? WOW!!! That really sucks.

That motor shows signs of lots of moisture ingress… and not through the vent.

When you install the new one, you may want to liberally apply Boeshield-T9 to the exterior and joint seams, and then wipe it down after an hour or so… this product applies much like WD-40 and creeps the same way. But unlike WD-40, Boeshield-T9 not a solvent… it is an aerospace derived wax protectant. It will displace moisture to prevent corrosion and stop moisture ingress. It also makes metal look nice. For standard corrosion protection maintenance, a little goes a long way. It will fully dry in about a week, then touch it up every six months or so. No more corrosion problems due to moisture.

Just a thought to keep that from happening.
 
Complete brake failure today - luckily it happened on start up so we weren't in motion. Have ordered a new motor/accumulator.

Condition of the Motor - Not Good.

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As I’m new to these trucks, I’m not savvy to this issue though I’ve seen it discussed. anyone Care to bring me up to speed?
 
As I’m new to these trucks, I’m not savvy to this issue though I’ve seen it discussed. anyone Care to bring me up to speed?

Welcome to the forum!!! This is the right place to find any on all information you may need to keep your beautiful 100 series Land Cruiser running properly.

The dreaded brake booster failure!!!

The meat of the issue is that the brake booster electric motor driving the pump will fail, and there will be NO braking power.
Grab that handbrake!!!!
Lots of other things involved inside the brake booster as well. All needs to be sorted out properly. Lots of steps to analyze the issues. MUST BE DONE PROPERLY.

Read through this short thread…

There are many other threads as well that dive into deeper detail regarding this issue.


And this longer, more in-depth discussion…

 
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Yeah I couldn’t scrap anything together for the shock bushings that were the right diameter. Was able to use the rented ball joint press from advance auto to get the new bushing into place.

For #2 frame bushing I rigged this up.
View attachment 3997829
Receiving cup is from the kit, threaded nipple is for 2” OD galvanized pipe and the rest I bought from McMaster Carr on rec from another thread in here for LCA replacement. Like $60 in hardware but couldn’t have done it without it.
Definitely the way to go on the bushing removal. Now I have an Acme screw and nut that wants another job.

It sucks that you have to resort to this, when it's only about 1/8" of engagement that rusts in place, but you definitely can't get that bushing out any easier. I thought it was going to take a lot of torque, based on the total failure of every other bushing press tool I had lying around, but I could have gotten both sides out with a 1/4" drive, using that setup.
 
Upgraded fogs on the '01. Just can't decide how obnoxious they are or if I even care.

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