What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (53 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Yup, did 33's in 2019ish, recently moved to 34's. Braking totally changed going to 34's load E (from 33 load c's) that I'm thinking of upgrading to the 03+ front calipers next time i'm doing front brake work.

What's different on the 03+ calipers?
 
A couple of 'quick jobs' today.

I posted a thread trying to understand why my dimmer for the dash lights didn't work, I removed it and the trim and it turned out someone had gone to replace it but for whatever reason had bought the wrong one (which had the wrong connection) and then just lived with being blinded at night!

I didn't fancy paying £75 including shipping when I have so many other things to pay for on this 04 100 series.

Found a breaker with one for £45 including shipping for that and some other screws I was missing.

View attachment 3812473

Top is correct, bottom was the one fitted so it couldn't be plugged in.

View attachment 3812472

Next job was changing out my rear diff oil. The pinion seal is leaking, I'm waiting on a shed load of stuff from Japan and this includes the seal, so I decided to check the level last week and it was all like this! Bought some oil, ended up getting the amount required wrong, so had to get a lift to the parts store for more oil.

Drained it all out and replaced with fresh! It was replaced at a garage by a previous owner 4K miles, but has obviously suffered some water ingress. Either way, it's all out and nice fresh stuff is back in!

View attachment 3812474
Definitely looks like your rear differential housing ingested water. I would do a 500-mile drain and fill on the rear diff after you rebuild it with new seals and oil just to make sure it doesn’t have any contaminants inside.
 

Didn't even know they were different, good info. Hope it helps you, but from my experience, the only way to get better stopping power is to get larger diameter rotors. You really get braking leverage when they grab the disc further out.
 
Didn't even know they were different, good info. Hope it helps you, but from my experience, the only way to get better stopping power is to get larger diameter rotors. You really get braking leverage when they grab the disc further out.
BBK kits are available but they also require at least an 18" wheel - so be sure you want to spend $2000+ on brakes and are ok with 18" wheels.
 
When you get tired of playing with the glue on the canister, try replacing with the 2000 Tundra canister. It’s basically the same except the mounting bolts are in a different place. The locking slide on the firewall is the same. So that plus a heavy duty zip tie did the trick. It’s been working like a charm.
Ended up goobering some pc11 plastic weld over the plugs. No issues, put 2,000 miles on it since. I will go the route of the tundra unit if I get so much as a whiff of an evap fault code though. 🥁
 
Perhaps a silly one, but I replaced the straps for the lower tailgate. The straps were 21 years old this year and my daughter sits on the tailgate, so I didn't want anything to break :)

PXL_20250114_132954404.MP.jpg


PXL_20250114_132641356.MP.jpg
 
Perhaps a silly one, but I replaced the straps for the lower tailgate. The straps were 21 years old this year and my daughter sits on the tailgate, so I didn't want anything to break :)

View attachment 3816073

View attachment 3816074
They look nice!
Just a sidenote though...I'm well north of 300lbs. and regularly stand on my tailgate with the original cables.
I'm pretty sure you'd be okay with the old ones...but they are nice and not crazy expensive.
 
Last edited:
They look nice!
Just a sidenote though...I'm well north of 300lbs. and regularly stand on my tailgate with the original cables.
I'm pretty sure you's be okay with the old ones...but they are nice and not crazy expensive.
Thanks! They were about £12 a side on partsouq so got them included in the £500 of parts that arrived a few days ago!

There weren't any obvious frays etc, and no reasons to assume any issues but it was a nice easy one :)
 
Thanks! They were about £12 a side on partsouq so got them included in the £500 of parts that arrived a few days ago!

There weren't any obvious frays etc, and no reasons to assume any issues but it was a nice easy one :)
probably about 6 months ago i jumped up on my tailgate and the driver side strap snapped right where it bends when closed. So good call replacing them

im also a huskier fella, but thankfully the passenger one held and no tailgate damage was done
 
Last edited:
@SMLE any thoughts on cutting the outer cover off to see how the cables underneath look?

You know what, I thought to myself earlier when responding to @Trapper50cal that I should have had a look, they went in the bin this morning and the bin lorry took it all today :(

We'll assume it was all good! :)
 
@SMLE any thoughts on cutting the outer cover off to see how the cables underneath look?
when mine snapped i could see rust on some of the cable strands, you can actually pull the outer cover back enough to see
 
You know what, I thought to myself earlier when responding to @Trapper50cal that I should have had a look, they went in the bin this morning and the bin lorry took it all today :(

We'll assume it was all good! :)
"bin lorry" - For some reason that reminds me of a John Cleese/Monty Python skit about delivery trucks...I actually like the little language differences we have.

I can't imagine what driving a big land cruiser around London would be like though...
 
"bin lorry" - For some reason that reminds me of a John Cleese/Monty Python skit about delivery trucks...I actually like the little language differences we have.

I can't imagine what driving a big land cruiser around London would be like though...
I have fun driving it down roads of victorian terraces a few streets from my home, with cars parked on each side. The LC can barely get down them and then you have to parallel park into a space to let other cars pass, gives my arms a nice workout :)
 
This is weird but I just drove a friend's new Bronco and was surprised at how "tight" it felt. As a result, I'm taking the plunge and throwing the credit card at the parts list for the front suspension, the steering rack, and the trans/motor/diff mounts.

I already have a big parts stash but it's about to get a lot bigger, but what the heck -- you only hit 200k miles once! 🤔🤣
 
I think the headlights on my 1993 80 are better than my 2005 LX.
Oddly enough I think that the headlights in my '07 LX are pretty good.Both the lows and the highs put light where you want it, the cutoff is good, and the output is reasonable.

Is it possible that, at this point in time, a lot of them have corroded connectors, wiring or grounds that drop the voltage?
 
This is weird but I just drove a friend's new Bronco and was surprised at how "tight" it felt. As a result, I'm taking the plunge and throwing the credit card at the parts list for the front suspension, the steering rack, and the trans/motor/diff mounts.

I already have a big parts stash but it's about to get a lot bigger, but what the heck -- you only hit 200k miles once! 🤔🤣
Do it all. It's so gratifying.
 
Update on my Micro D2S retrofit: Holy moly - when you flip the high beams on, you can see into the FUTURE they're so bright! The low beams are awesome too - SO MUCH BETTER than the stock headlight setup.

I redesigned my 3D printed caps to allow the ignitor wire to exit downward (best for water ingress protection), and will be kicking out a set to @Zuberg for him to do a retrofit with here tomorrow.

Definitely an excellent upgrade to the LX!

This is an updated cap - the final version (that Zuberg is getting) actually has the wire rotated a little further downward too. These reuse the OEM O-ring that the the original tailcaps use. There's just enough room to sneak these caps in front of the battery on the drivers side.
1736987208336.png
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom