Depends upon what your existing ATF looks like… and the mileage of the vehicle.
If the existing ATF is still red, and not orange or brown, I would probably drain and fill at each engine oil change for 3 intervals… and then reassess the condition.
Check your power steering fluid at the same time… fresh power steering fluid dramatically extends the life of the power steering rack. The ideal condition is to have a stacked plate fluid cooler for the power steering fluid.
Pre-03 cruisers had no power steering fluid cooler… bad.
‘03 and up had the paper clip style cooler… better, but not great.
A lower temperature in the power steering fluid equates to a steering rack that lasts much longer.
Depends upon what your existing ATF looks like… and the mileage of the vehicle.
If the existing ATF is still red, and not orange or brown, I would probably drain and fill at each engine oil change for 3 intervals… and then reassess the condition.
Check your power steering fluid at the same time… fresh power steering fluid dramatically extends the life of the power steering rack. The ideal condition is to have a stacked plate fluid cooler for the power steering fluid.
Pre-03 cruisers had no power steering fluid cooler… bad.
‘03 and up had the paper clip style cooler… better, but not great.
A lower temperature in the power steering fluid equates to a steering rack that lasts much longer.
Thanks for the write up! I’ve decided to do a full exchange. 210k miles and I believe it’s original fluid. Ill knock out the power steering fluid while Im in there.
Thanks for the write up! I’ve decided to do a full exchange. 210k miles and I believe it’s original fluid. Ill knock out the power steering fluid while Im in there.
At 210K miles, if it is original fluid, be prepared for dark metallic effluent.
if that is the case, I would drop the transmission pan and make sure the pick up screen is clean… It would also allow you to clean off the magnets inside the pan.
I know this will cause chest pain for the oem purists, but...New Mevotech sway bar end links up front today from Rock Auto. I'll report back if they fail in short order, but the quality seems good and for $24 for the pair for a non-critical part I figured what the heck.
I know this will cause chest pain for the oem purists, but...New Mevotech sway bar end links up front today from Rock Auto. I'll report back if they fail in short order, but the quality seems good and for $24 for the pair for a non-critical part I figured what the heck.
Tossed in the newly released Dobinson upper and lower adjustable rear control arms. Night and day difference! The rear end doesn't feel like it's in mud anymore under acceleration!
Tossed in the newly released Dobinson upper and lower adjustable rear control arms. Night and day difference! The rear end doesn't feel like it's in mud anymore under acceleration!
308k mile service. Changed oil, filter, greased everything, cleaned throttle body and mass airflow sensor, rotated tires. Also changed plugs with NGK. Old ones I guessed had 100k on them, but they were definitely worn out. Also installed the lower control arm torsion bar reinforcements that I’ve had sitting on the shelf for the last year. All ready for Southern Cruiser Crawl next weekend!
308k mile service. Changed oil, filter, greased everything, cleaned throttle body and mass airflow sensor, rotated tires. Also changed plugs with NGK. Old ones I guessed had 100k on them, but they were definitely worn out. Also installed the lower control arm torsion bar reinforcements that I’ve had sitting on the shelf for the last year. All ready for Southern Cruiser Crawl next weekend!
So, to do those reinforcement brackets, you had to remove the torsion bars? Or did you just remove the bolts and slide em in?
(At full droop I would imagine) How did all that go?
So, to do those reinforcement brackets, you had to remove the torsion bars? Or did you just remove the bolts and slide em in?
(At full droop I would imagine) How did all that go?
My kit came with 3/8” fasteners… I did not use the ungraded 3/8” SAE hardware that came in the package.
I sourced my own grade 8.8 metric hardware… 8.8 grade flanged bolts and 8.8 flanged washers... blue Loctite on the fasteners.
So, to do those reinforcement brackets, you had to remove the torsion bars? Or did you just remove the bolts and slide em in?
(At full droop I would imagine) How did all that go?
As others have said, you have to lift it and back out the torsion bars. The inner bolt cannot be removed, at least not with the LCAs hanging all the way down.
I have a lift, which I’m sure makes this a lot easier. Being in TX and not having any corrosion is better yet. I used a step bit which always makes the drilling easier. Also, make sure you clean and lube the adjusting bolts before you take it apart. They are fine thread and under a lot of tension. It would be easy to bind or strip the threads if they are dirty.
I ordered a full replacement power antenna and installed it. Radio might have been used MAYBE once or twice since I bought it but it continues to satisfy me that now it’s fully operational.
I still have a lot to learn about IFS and torsion bars. I started watching a video that started discussing "5 tooth indexing" and got confused at that point.
I still have a lot to learn about IFS and torsion bars. I started watching a video that started discussing "5 tooth indexing" and got confused at that point.
308k mile service. Changed oil, filter, greased everything, cleaned throttle body and mass airflow sensor, rotated tires. Also changed plugs with NGK. Old ones I guessed had 100k on them, but they were definitely worn out. Also installed the lower control arm torsion bar reinforcements that I’ve had sitting on the shelf for the last year. All ready for Southern Cruiser Crawl next weekend!
Got a chance to drive this morning, and the new plugs definitively put more pep in her step. I had pulled two plugs previously to check condition, and I apparently pulled the best two. Only two plugs were under .051 (max gap). The others were close to .057. I guess my intel on when they were last changed was bad.
Rebooted driver side CV and reinstalled with a new diff seal. I tried the boot stretch mod by leaving the neck of the previous boot in place. New brakes all around as well. New brakes always feel refreshing.