What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (65 Viewers)

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BB is 2.6#/sf. That would take a decent amount of holes to amount to any significant weight savings. I was actually pleasantly surprised that is wasn't heavier! They sure feel heavy lugging them around. :)
Oh yeah. You'd have to drill your ass off. But e.v.e.n.t.u.a.l.l...............y. Voilà!
 
Tossed a set of new shocks on. 100% better ride.

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AC free spool bearing has been noisey for over a year. Finaly removed the AC clutch, hammered out the bearing, and ordered a new one from a local bearing supply company.

Very easy job to remove. Just need a 10mm socket, and snap ring pliers. The 2 parts of the clutch and pulley just wiggle off. CANNOT WAIT to have a quiet engine again.



...via IH8MUD app
 
Do you have the specs and/or the part number for the bearing?


...via IH8MUD app
 
Sure:

Nachi
30BGS10DST

Cost me $35 at the local bearing supply place.
 
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New bumper and fresh sand.
 
Decided to fix my sagging seat back nets. Picked up a length of shock cord from REI and restrung the top of the net. Not a hard job, but I ended up giving up trying to remove the spring clip washers. I cut off the studs and popped the washers. Then I removed the old shock cord and noticed a small little cube attached to it that sat in a keyway on the back. I melted the end of the new shock cord enough to form a ball and forced it into the keyway. Restrung it through the net and melted the other end the same way and pushed it into the keyway on the other end. Next, I found some small screws and washers and reattached the net frame to the back. It feels as sturdy as when I removed it and looks a heck of a lot better. Probably 2 hours of time with interruptions.

Before:
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After:

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FWIW, you can cut those metal washers with a dremel, leaving the plastic nub that they attach to. Then install new spring washers.
 
Yeah... But I wanted it done and I didn't have the spring washers but I did have screws and washers. I did it on the cheap. $1.25 for shock cord, some Harbor Freight screws & washers and my time. I estimate $2.00 total. :D
 
This week I finished mounting 2 rotopax 3gal cans under the vehicle where the spare tire used to be.

This was possible because my spare tire is on the tire swing now. Using 2 rotopax mounts I bolted them to the frame of the factory tire mount after removing all hardware. One thing to note is the resonator that could produce lots of heat comes close to the tire mount, so I left plenty of room in case I have to add a heat shield.

They fit great with no worries of clearance. I am happy with the results.
 
This week I finished mounting 2 rotopax 3gal cans under the vehicle where the spare tire used to be.

This was possible because my spare tire is on the tire swing now. Using 2 rotopax mounts I bolted them to the frame of the factory tire mount after removing all hardware. One thing to note is the resonator that could produce lots of heat comes close to the tire mount, so I left plenty of room in case I have to add a heat shield.

They fit great with no worries of clearance. I am happy with the results.
Pics. Sounds very cool.
 
Plastidipped stock rims and side molding. Also new stoptech slotted rotors, hawk lts pads, goodridge ss brake lines, and new bearings. Also falken wildpeak 33's.

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Replaced leaking AC discharge hose. Replaced AC dryer element (see here for an example: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1309397&cc=1368547).
I stumbled onto the location for the drier element. Couldn't find it on any threads here. It is under the truck on the passenger side of the radiator. Unscrew the cap and yank the old element out with needle nose pliers. Poke the new one in (I used a 3/8 extension bar to tap it in) and put the cap back on. 5 mins tops. Vacuum system and recharge with R134a.

During the charging process I found that my drivers side valve cover gasket was leaking like the Exxon Valdez. So I'll have to tear back into that and reseat the new gasket.

okryan; did you need to use any special sealant on either end of the discharge hose?
 

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