It bumps up the charging voltage by 0.5 volt across the board. Should help keep the AGM batteries happy.
Here is some more discussion about the various voltage boosters:
Alternator Voltage Booster
forum.ih8mud.com
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (34 Viewers)
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Here is some more discussion about the various voltage boosters:
forum.ih8mud.com
passenger cv axle/ abs sensor/ inner and outer tie rod over the weekend.
this autozone stud extractor came in handy to replace the hub flange bolts:
this autozone stud extractor came in handy to replace the hub flange bolts:
Finally figured out where my driver front AHC leak was coming from - thought it was the shock/hose connection until I replaced the seals twice and still had a leak. Can't complain too much since it's got 150k miles on it, but I'll have to replace the passenger soon as PM rather than wait for it to fail as well.
Hint - it's not supposed to be thinner in the middle there. Also, had to cut the top off with a grinder because that nut was not going to turn.
Hint - it's not supposed to be thinner in the middle there. Also, had to cut the top off with a grinder because that nut was not going to turn.
Are you going to keep the AHC or go conventional suspension? I bought mine used and vowed to keep AHC as long as it lasted but replace with traditional should anything significant go wrong. It got to 177k miles before AHC crapped out and I put in OME springs/torsion bars and Fox shocks. The AHC was a great feature but too tricky for me to deal with failures and mine has a good bit of rust so I figured more were soon to come.
Keep it as long as possible. I like how it spreads the load between the conventional springs and the AHC shocks, as well as the auto-load leveling when I load up the back/hitch up a trailer. Though not cheap, I'll replace the shocks and likely the globes before I give up on the system altogether. I'd hesitate to go beyond that, but I looked at a few LC's with 200k plus on them with working AHC. If something really expensive goes, I'll swap to conventional suspension at that point. Fortunately, I can do almost anything myself, so I just need to consider time and parts cost, but not labor! And of course, the risk of it breaking at an inopportune time.
Edit - guess I never mentioned that I did replace that shock. The passenger isn't leaking now but it probably looks similar, so I'll replace that one sometime soon as well. Not sure how hard it is to get to the rears but I have a feeling it's worse than the fronts!
Replaced my alternator today in my LX. I don't know how people pull their alternators out of the bottom without draining the radiator and removing the lower radiator hose. It makes it 1000% easier.
Was a little rushed for our LBL trip over Labor Day which was the first time pulling the camper, um as a “team”. Well, not mounting your brake controller box makes things more challenging so I just found the blank piece to get that done and mount the switch.
Also did some PM’s for the IDBDR, new radiator hoses and t-stat.
Also did some PM’s for the IDBDR, new radiator hoses and t-stat.
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Took the family skiing in very very western MD, where it’s somehow 20 degrees colder than the DC area.
briefly parked next to a kindred spirit...gorgeous amazon green 200....
briefly parked next to a kindred spirit...gorgeous amazon green 200....
Just paint my 99 amazon green and updated front and rear to look like 06-07
I unbolted the power steering pump and worked it out the top. I really didn't want to deal with draining the coolant. Agreed with you, though, no idea how the alternator could come out the bottom without removing that hose.
I have been trying to resolve a pretty bad shake at 55 mph+ speeds. It is not so much a shimmy but a full on shake. Pumping fresh grease in drive shafts didn't help. Prying on U joints didn't reveal anything. CV axles are not leaking or seeping, they don't make any grinding or clicking or popping noise at any speeds.
So I ordered these parts from local Toyota dealership before even getting under the truck:
Drive Shaft
Front: 37140-60370 $259
Rear: 37110-6A610 $346
CV Axles: 43430-60040 $401
Total about $1500
Plan of action was to disconnect the front shaft and take off the front hub flanges to see if it would eliminate the shake. If it doesn't then remove the rear drive shaft would help.
But guess what? The driver side wheel has a large amount of play in it from the inner tie rod!! Like a really big, unsafe play when you grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o clock! and the steering rack boot is full of power steering fluid
So before anything else, I am planning to buy a tie rod kit from @cruiseroutfit and replace the tie rods to see if that addresses the shake. And then dump some AT 205 in the power steering reservoir to deal with the leak.
Or I could just replace the whole rack be done with it. Will need to get an alignment either way.
So I ordered these parts from local Toyota dealership before even getting under the truck:
Drive Shaft
Front: 37140-60370 $259
Rear: 37110-6A610 $346
CV Axles: 43430-60040 $401
Total about $1500
Plan of action was to disconnect the front shaft and take off the front hub flanges to see if it would eliminate the shake. If it doesn't then remove the rear drive shaft would help.
But guess what? The driver side wheel has a large amount of play in it from the inner tie rod!! Like a really big, unsafe play when you grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o clock! and the steering rack boot is full of power steering fluid
So before anything else, I am planning to buy a tie rod kit from @cruiseroutfit and replace the tie rods to see if that addresses the shake. And then dump some AT 205 in the power steering reservoir to deal with the leak.
Or I could just replace the whole rack be done with it. Will need to get an alignment either way.
Air suspension? You mean the AHC hydraulic suspension. What exactly happened? AHC can fail....as any suspension can i.e. blown valves in a shock, etc. The main culprit I've seen lead to AHC failures has been poor maintenance including putting the wrong fluids in the system....I've seen ATF in the AHC, DOT3 fluid once and recently......green coolant. Yeah, all those systems failed...not due to Toyota engineering, but incompetence on the part of the mechanics.
Cut off a spinning lug nut from the other day's tire rotation:
Had some lugs from Dorman (none instock at Toyota) and went to pull the wheel -the next one up clockwise seized about 1/8" away from the wheel. Didn't have time deal with cutting that off and then installing two new lugs so I elected to cut the bad threads off the first lug to be able to drive home on four lugs and nuts rather than three.
So now tomorrow afternoon is round two of cut/drill off a lug nut and replace some lugs.
Had some lugs from Dorman (none instock at Toyota) and went to pull the wheel -the next one up clockwise seized about 1/8" away from the wheel. Didn't have time deal with cutting that off and then installing two new lugs so I elected to cut the bad threads off the first lug to be able to drive home on four lugs and nuts rather than three.
So now tomorrow afternoon is round two of cut/drill off a lug nut and replace some lugs.
I have been trying to resolve a pretty bad shake at 55 mph+ speeds. It is not so much a shimmy but a full on shake. Pumping fresh grease in drive shafts didn't help. Prying on U joints didn't reveal anything. CV axles are not leaking or seeping, they don't make any grinding or clicking or popping noise at any speeds.
So I ordered these parts from local Toyota dealership before even getting under the truck:
Drive Shaft
Front: 37140-60370 $259
Rear: 37110-6A610 $346
CV Axles: 43430-60040 $401
Total about $1500
Plan of action was to disconnect the front shaft and take off the front hub flanges to see if it would eliminate the shake. If it doesn't then remove the rear drive shaft would help.
But guess what? The driver side wheel has a large amount of play in it from the inner tie rod!! Like a really big, unsafe play when you grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o clock! and the steering rack boot is full of power steering fluid
So before anything else, I am planning to buy a tie rod kit from @cruiseroutfit and replace the tie rods to see if that addresses the shake. And then dump some AT 205 in the power steering reservoir to deal with the leak.
Or I could just replace the whole rack be done with it. Will need to get an alignment either way.
The CV axels 401$ is that the price for both or one side ?
NVM just did the math and it looks like you bought 2
Last edited:
The CV axels 401$ is that the price for both or one side ?
NVM just did the math and it looks like you bought 2
That would be each.
Genuine Toyota CV Axle (Left, Right, Front) part# 43430-60040 for 1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser | Ourisman Toyota Parts| Official Online Store
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The Toyota shafts are worth it!
In the “what will I be doing to my 100 series this week” category, I present......
Thanks to @TRAIL TAILOR for the fresh bits to get my rear end in order Now I have something to do with my free time while the spouse is away for a few days
Thanks to @TRAIL TAILOR for the fresh bits to get my rear end in order
Now I have something to do with my free time while the spouse is away for a few days 
In the “what will I be doing to my 100 series this week” category, I present......
Thanks to @TRAIL TAILOR for the fresh bits to get my rear end in order
View attachment 2195425
There's never a bad time to freshen up your rear end! Post up your results when you get there, I think I might be chasing the same demons.
Will do. My rear end was starting to "wallow" quite a bit. When I did the rear brake job, I took a good gander at the control arms. The bushings were clearly "shot" on both of the lower control arms. Didn't look at the top ones, but figured they'd be in similar condition. Will know shortly if this fixes the problem and gets me back to that rock-solid, steady ride I had before.
While the tie rod ends are on their way, I thought I would take the front drive shaft off to see if that would eliminate the drivetrain vibration. Welp, I failed like a miserable bitchI have been trying to resolve a pretty bad shake at 55 mph+ speeds. It is not so much a shimmy but a full on shake. Pumping fresh grease in drive shafts didn't help. Prying on U joints didn't reveal anything. CV axles are not leaking or seeping, they don't make any grinding or clicking or popping noise at any speeds.
So I ordered these parts from local Toyota dealership before even getting under the truck:
Drive Shaft
Front: 37140-60370 $259
Rear: 37110-6A610 $346
CV Axles: 43430-60040 $401
Total about $1500
Plan of action was to disconnect the front shaft and take off the front hub flanges to see if it would eliminate the shake. If it doesn't then remove the rear drive shaft would help.
But guess what? The driver side wheel has a large amount of play in it from the inner tie rod!! Like a really big, unsafe play when you grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o clock! and the steering rack boot is full of power steering fluid
So before anything else, I am planning to buy a tie rod kit from @cruiseroutfit and replace the tie rods to see if that addresses the shake. And then dump some AT 205 in the power steering reservoir to deal with the leak.
Or I could just replace the whole rack be done with it. Will need to get an alignment either way.
. I couldn't budge the front shaft bolts and while I could push it a little more, I got scared and decided I don't want to deal with that.Next, I tried to remove the metal shield under the transfer case so I could drain the transfer case fluid and managed to just twist off the mounting bolt
The other bolt was smashed at some point and has been mangled to a point that I can no longer get a socket on it. So the shield will stay on by that one mangled head bolt. Ended up draining the transfer case with shield in place, made a mess on the garage floor and refilled the case with fresh 75w-90 synthetic fluid.The saga continues...
