What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (46 Viewers)

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@nigelsiam you are dealing with what I'm sure is a big fear for many of us and I hope they are able to make you whole. It took me a long time to find my rust-free, locked, '97 CE and one of it's few downsides is how hard it would be to replace if something happened to it. Hopefully you don't have to spend too much time getting them to a # that works for you.
I would suggest some kind of tracking device or something. You do NOT want to go through this. 😭
 
My OEM fan tickled my radiator (again) after hitting 5000rpm on the way to work. I spent almost three hours limping it home. I found out the hard way when driving 80 mph and I look down to see the temp gauge at 283* :(

The engine runs "fine", but there may be more heat related damage that I'm not aware of.

I've already purchased a new Denso rad and a new OEM fan but I need a better solution. I have approximately 4mm between the supercharger belt and the fan so using smaller spacers is not an option. I've read that the ring fan is horrible.

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My OEM fan tickled my radiator (again) after hitting 5000rpm on the way to work. I spent almost three hours limping it home. I found out the hard way when driving 80 mph and I look down to see the temp gauge at 283* :(

The engine runs "fine", but there may be more heat related damage that I'm not aware of.

I've already purchased a new Denso rad and a new OEM fan but I need a better solution. I have approximately 4mm between the supercharger belt and the fan so using smaller spacers is not an option. I've read that the ring fan is horrible.

View attachment 3773408
Are your engine mounts original? Worn out mounts tends to cause that rubbing of the fan to the rad.
 
My OEM fan tickled my radiator (again) after hitting 5000rpm on the way to work. I spent almost three hours limping it home. I found out the hard way when driving 80 mph and I look down to see the temp gauge at 283* :(

The engine runs "fine", but there may be more heat related damage that I'm not aware of.

I've already purchased a new Denso rad and a new OEM fan but I need a better solution. I have approximately 4mm between the supercharger belt and the fan so using smaller spacers is not an option. I've read that the ring fan is horrible.

View attachment 3773408
Have you looked into a land tank Orange fan clutch, I’m pretty sure this allows you to use the factory fan. And gives you more clearance from the radiator?
 
Have you looked into a land tank Orange fan clutch, I’m pretty sure this allows you to use the factory fan. And gives you more clearance from the radiator?
I have a blue fan clutch with 6mm spacers and simply cannot move the fan any further back towards the engine. I would have the exact same problem with the orange fan clutch.
 
Are your engine mounts original? Worn out mounts tends to cause that rubbing of the fan to the rad.
2 years old.

The engine was pulled and rebuilt Dec 2021. The supercharger was added Nov 2022. The first radiator was the tyc1918 which is known for being thick and having extra cooling capacity. This radiator was denso that's physically thinner.
 
Looks like two other fan options are available.
16361-66020 - 8 blade 1FZ fan 18.5" in diameter and loves the taste of radiators.
16361-65020 - 7 blade 3FE fan that 17" in diameter but leaves a larger gap around the shroud.

@cruiserdan
I ran a 16361-65020 with the TRD spacer for around 8 years before I switched to the machined orange clutch Rick came up with.
 
@nigelsiam you are dealing with what I'm sure is a big fear for many of us and I hope they are able to make you whole. It took me a long time to find my rust-free, locked, '97 CE and one of it's few downsides is how hard it would be to replace if something happened to it. Hopefully you don't have to spend too much time getting them to a # that works for you.
Sounds like you should "post" your rig for sale. Ask what you think is an honest fair price and let someone else use it for a "comparable". Than you could change your mind a week later and keep it 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣
 
My alternator died while elk hunting in OR. Nearest part was 90 miles away. We MacGyvered it with a Honda generator on the rack, 2 extension cords to a trickle charger and I ended up driving 360 miles home instead of a roadside repair.
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My alternator died while elk hunting in OR. Nearest part was 90 miles away. We MacGyvered it with a Honda generator on the rack, 2 extension cords to a trickle charger and I ended up driving 360 miles home instead of a roadside repair. View attachment 3773706
If it works, it’s not wrong. 😂
 
Sounds like you should "post" your rig for sale. Ask what you think is an honest fair price and let someone else use it for a "comparable". Than you could change your mind a week later and keep it 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣
It's a hybrid right? So could be big bucks??
 
Completed the Aussie look with a Rampt Customs axel truss kit, and custom fender guards.
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My alternator died while elk hunting in OR. Nearest part was 90 miles away. We MacGyvered it with a Honda generator on the rack, 2 extension cords to a trickle charger and I ended up driving 360 miles home instead of a roadside repair. View attachment 3773706
I dub thee: Macgyver!
Nice fix!
 
Quick trip over to Moab- ran the Fins & Things loop this afternoon.
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Nice little test run after all the work done recently!
My wife got out twice when she saw the first couple of steep/rocky sections, saw how easily the Cruiser handled them, then climbed in, sat back, relaxed, and enjoyed the ride. :clap::steer:

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Slowly working through some suspension and steering baselining, front endlinks replaced with 555s, and swapped the front shocks out for some cheap KYBs (just holding me over until next summer, not quite ready to lift it yet and the 80 is going to be my daily for the next few months). Huge improvement already, you could say the original bushings had seen better days and the shocks that came out were hilariously far off from being the same height.

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Charged the starting battery as I don't drive it often but do have a draw and I am sure it is the window up/down anytime fix from LCP as it keeps the window switches illuminated. Going to update the charging system as I am running AGM batteries and the stock alternator doesn't provide the correct amperage to charge the batteries the way they should. The plan is to use the kit from @Delta VS and run the larger Tundra alternator.
 
Charged the starting battery as I don't drive it often but do have a draw and I am sure it is the window up/down anytime fix from LCP as it keeps the window switches illuminated. Going to update the charging system as I am running AGM batteries and the stock alternator doesn't provide the correct amperage to charge the batteries the way they should. The plan is to use the kit from @Delta VS and run the larger Tundra alternator.
Have you looked into the redarc dc-dc charger? its a really good solution to keep both batteries fully charged. it is a charge controller that will adjust charging voltage based on type of batter and is also a multi stage charger. supper easy install and has some other features you might or might not need IE solar charge controller.
 

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