What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (19 Viewers)

[george_tlc]

Some metal clunking noises offroad that became much more pronounced.

Looked over the front end while out camping and where did the pin go that is part of the phil 'kit'? So, simple solution was to just pull the front sway bar off completely and toss in the back. Now it is tossed at the side of the house and will no longer clunk or create problems. Drove the rest of the trip without and then 500 miles on the hwy including a couple of windy passes at speed. I noticed no difference in handling. Though the front end has dobinsons VT coils and decent adjustable King shocks.

Some more 'soft' clunk sounds and I identified a separated exhaust rubber cushion that I replaced today and while under noticed the second identical cushion is also ripped apart - so a job for next weekend

Replaced rubber bushings on the rear sway bar as well. The rubbers were pretty 'compressed' with age.

Also unpacked from previous week's camping trip. And raked the leaf madness at the front of the house.

Time for a siesta!!

cheers,
george.

 

[avdeveloper]

If you are feeling a bit more ambitious it's not hard to pull the upper intake and make everything under there much easier to access. Valve cover gasket will be easier, all of the vacuum lines, throttle body coolant hose and PHH. Even the fuel filter is right there.

I have thought about it, but I'm dreading that bolt close to the firewall that would require me to go from below the car and get up there with a bunch of extensions. I would need a second set of hands. I have a camping trip next weekend so I won't have the time to tackle it this week, but that is definitely on my list because some of those vacuum lines going to the evap switch are rock hard.

 

[avdeveloper]

Some metal clunking noises offroad that became much more pronounced.

Looked over the front end while out camping and where did the pin go that is part of the phil 'kit'? So, simple solution was to just pull the front sway bar off completely and toss in the back. Now it is tossed at the side of the house and will no longer clunk or create problems. Drove the rest of the trip without and then 500 miles on the hwy including a couple of windy passes at speed. I noticed no difference in handling. Though the front end has dobinsons VT coils and decent adjustable King shocks.

View attachment 3497096

Some more 'soft' clunk sounds and I identified a separated exhaust rubber cushion that I replaced today and while under noticed the second identical cushion is also ripped apart - so a job for next weekend

View attachment 3497097

Replaced rubber bushings on the rear sway bar as well. The rubbers were pretty 'compressed' with age.

Also unpacked from previous week's camping trip. And raked the leaf madness at the front of the house.

Time for a siesta!!

cheers,
george.

how fast were you driving on the highway? I only have my rear sway bars off because of a stuck ezout bit but I can't imagine driving without the front

 

[george_tlc]

how fast were you driving on the highway? I only have my rear sway bars off because of a stuck ezout bit but I can't imagine driving without the front

75-80mph when possible (to get home before it was too late at night) and then ant speed due to thanksgiving sunday traffic. Through 2 mountain passes (one in full night time) and those were at 75mph. Lots of swervy turns through the passes so an opportunity for the vehicle to shift weight etc. I think the rear should be kept on permanently given the rear 5 link can really articulate. The front with the rather 'inflexible' suspension seems fine to me without its sway bar, and with the front shocks dialed to 'more damping'.

Standard nuns and school children disclaimer.

cheers,
george.

 

[avdeveloper]

75-80mph when possible (to get home before it was too late at night) and then ant speed due to thanksgiving sunday traffic. Through 2 mountain passes (one in full night time) and those were at 75mph. Lots of swervy turns through the passes so an opportunity for the vehicle to shift weight etc. I think the rear should be kept on permanently given the rear 5 link can really articulate. The front with the rather 'inflexible' suspension seems fine to me without its sway bar, and with the front shocks dialed to 'more damping'.

Standard nuns and school children disclaimer.

cheers,
george.

yeah I need to get the rear sway bars up again. I hope the tungsten carbide bit on a dremel should help get the broken ez out off.

 

[ZackR]

I have thought about it, but I'm dreading that bolt close to the firewall that would require me to go from below the car and get up there with a bunch of extensions. I would need a second set of hands. I have a camping trip next weekend so I won't have the time to tackle it this week, but that is definitely on my list because some of those vacuum lines going to the evap switch are rock hard.

With some long extensions it's not too bad to reach. Likely easier than blindly wrestling with the PHH. If you are in a hurry to get things back together right at the moment I'd leave the stuff under there alone until you have a bit more time.

 

[avdeveloper]

With some long extensions it's not too bad to reach. Likely easier than blindly wrestling with the PHH. If you are in a hurry to get things back together right at the moment I'd leave the stuff under there alone until you have a bit more time.

fair point. With that air intake chamber off, I could also take care of getting the EGR pipe deleted and keep the engine clear of carbon build up and electrical gremlins around engine wiring harness.

 

[IXsokudo]

Worked on the evaporator core. She’s a dirty girl.

I am having issues with lowest speed. All others work fine after replacing the high speed relay. Gonna swap out the blower resistor with new Toyota PN. 87138-60220. I’ll update when part arrives and is swapped but it should fix the problem.
Which was most likely caused by the resistance the fan was having pushing air through that crap.

 

[txfzj80]

Tacked up another short run of OBA brackets. Will weld out next week and off to powder coating.

J

View attachment 3497103

When will these available for purchase?

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Draining my coolant so I can replace my valve cover gasket. Will put new spark plugs and wires, distributor o ring, rotor, and cap along the way and topping it off with toyota red.

Oh and I might replace the 284k old PHH while the cooling system is empty.

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Why drain the coolant to do the VC? I get servicing the cooling system, but that's not reqd here.

 

[suzuguru]

Why drain the coolant to do the VC? I get servicing the cooling system, but that's not reqd here.

I was wondering the same.

 

[avdeveloper]

I was wondering the same.

I was going to remove the throttle body and two coolant hoses are connected to it. One of them is old so I might as well replace that one. I really want to get the PHH as well just to cover all my bases since those two were the only coolant hoses I didnt replace last year. I noticed last week that I heard coolant sloshing around intermittently so I might as well get right to it.

 

[TXMeatball]

Replaced my crusty shift knob and flaking position indicator with good used ones. Annoying amount of work for small changes to be honest. Work keeping anything from the donor part I bought?

 

[HungryJ0e]

Installed new bumper courtesy of TurboDennis. Quite happy with it... great build quality.

Now just have to find a winch... if anyone has a secondhand one in good condition they'd be willing to part with, I'm you're guy.

 

[Tassie Devil]

I was going to remove the throttle body and two coolant hoses are connected to it. One of them is old so I might as well replace that one. I really want to get the PHH as well just to cover all my bases since those two were the only coolant hoses I didnt replace last year. I noticed last week that I heard coolant sloshing around intermittently so I might as well get right to it.

Forgive my ignorance but WTF is the PHH?
Do agree though that you may as well drain the coolant & replace when finished, as to get to the VC gasket replacement, you need to disconnect a couple of upper coolant hoses, so draining it prevents coolant splashing all over where you are working.

 

[avdeveloper]

Forgive my ignorance but WTF is the PHH?
Do agree though that you may as well drain the coolant & replace when finished, as to get to the VC gasket replacement, you need to disconnect a couple of upper coolant hoses, so draining it prevents coolant splashing all over where you are working.

it stands for the pesky heater hose. It's the short hose located below the intake manifold connected to a hard line that leads up to the heater control valve.

1FZ-FE PHH Kit- OEM Clamps

1FZ-FE PHH Kit- OEM Clamps (BRZ-1A)

absolute-wits-end.com

 

[IXsokudo]

Replaced my crusty shift knob and flaking position indicator with good used ones. Annoying amount of work for small changes to be honest. Work keeping anything from the donor part I bought?
View attachment 3497382View attachment 3497383View attachment 3497384View attachment 3497385

These are the two bushings for the linkage
Bushing 90480-17177 (2)needed

 

[Tassie Devil]

it stands for the pesky heater hose. It's the short hose located below the intake manifold connected to a hard line that leads up to the heater control valve.

1FZ-FE PHH Kit- OEM Clamps

1FZ-FE PHH Kit- OEM Clamps (BRZ-1A)

absolute-wits-end.com

Thanks. I'm just about to do this & PHH had me confused.

 

[cruiserdan]

Thanks. I'm just about to do this & PHH had me confused.

Best to consult your local dealer for the necessary parts.

 

[JohnnyFish]

Forgive my ignorance but WTF is the PHH?
Do agree though that you may as well drain the coolant & replace when finished, as to get to the VC gasket replacement, you need to disconnect a couple of upper coolant hoses, so draining it prevents coolant splashing all over where you are working.

This one fell apart from the stress of turning the hose clamp screws. I replaced it with the Wits-End kit that Joey rightly describes as lazy.