Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Speaking of Speedometer cables. Our HDJ80 is showing on Partsouq that the speedo cable is no longer available. Will an FZJ cable be the same?That piece has broken off of your existing cable. The fix is a new cable that will have that piece already installed
Advice/Direction Needed: Speedometer Cable Replacement. Never done this before ever. For 91 LC.
Which end do I start with? Gauge or Trans?
Any advice on best ways and how to avoid issues.
LOVE the stock look!1,800-mile round trip to the Ozarks from Colorado last weekend. Didn’t miss a beat.
View attachment 3175789
The FZJ models don't have a speedo cable. Sensor only. Do some searching here. Someone else recently replaced theirs with somethingSpeaking of Speedometer cables. Our HDJ80 is showing on Partsouq that the speedo cable is no longer available. Will an FZJ cable be the same?
VIN: Jt111tj8007003915
The part number showing online doesn't show a superseding part. 8371060151
Is the FJ80 speedo cable the same as the early HDJ80?
That makes sense, thank you! On that topic is there way to measure negative cable efficiency for a lack of a better word? The difference in negative cables thickness in the car is too varied and I'm sure a lot of is not done correctly.
Thanks, my bad, I meant FJ80. I thought the early petrol 80's had a cable as well and may be the same from HDJ to FJ. Trying to find a part number, but nothing so far for the HDJ80's.The FZJ models don't have a speedo cable. Sensor only. Do some searching here. Someone else recently replaced theirs with something
Did you weld in new inner fenders?Put the rear cargo back together after fixing water leaks and rust.
View attachment 3176243View attachment 3176244View attachment 3176245View attachment 3176246View attachment 3176247
Thanks for your great explanation and makes perfect sense to me now and hopefully everyone else when chasing gremlins on our now 25+ year old rigs!The very best way to measure cable efficiency is not to measure resistance directly with an Ohmmeter as this does not indicate how well the cable can handle the current needed. Different cable thicknesses in different locations is not necessarily a bad thing, as each circuit has different needs. The cable which carries the most current is of course the one from the engine block to the battery, as it carries all the current from the starter motor when the engine is being cranked.
So, the best way to check this specific cable is to connect a Voltmeter between the two ends. You will want to clip the red/positive lead of the voltmeter to the end of that cable which is bolted to the engine block, and connect the black/negative lead to the negative terminal of the battery. Disable the ignition system to keep the engine from starting/running (disconnect & ground the coil wire) and crank the engine while observing voltage. You are measuring voltage drop on that cable which would be caused by any unwanted resistance. Anything over 0.2 Volt (200mV) is excessive and indicates either a loose connection or a faulty cable.
Any wire on the vehicle can be checked in this manner, both on the power side or ground side of a component. Switches, relays, and connectors also can be checked for voltage drop. About 0.1 Volt (100mV) is allowed per component, so several wires, switches, and connectors could add up to 0.5-0.7 Volt. Remember, any voltage which is used up (dropped) in these components is not available to the load components, making motors run slow and light burn dimly.
I hope this translates well, not only from English to any other language, but from "electrical speak" to common terms.
Did you weld in new inner fenders?
This is great, thank you for taking the time to explain. My rig has been deeply neglected and with my OCD and my lack of knowledge i really appreciate a common sense approach to diagnosing and baselining.This helps me understand how well the compononets function individually then all put together.The very best way to measure cable efficiency is not to measure resistance directly with an Ohmmeter as this does not indicate how well the cable can handle the current needed. Different cable thicknesses in different locations is not necessarily a bad thing, as each circuit has different needs. The cable which carries the most current is of course the one from the engine block to the battery, as it carries all the current from the starter motor when the engine is being cranked.
So, the best way to check this specific cable is to connect a Voltmeter between the two ends. You will want to clip the red/positive lead of the voltmeter to the end of that cable which is bolted to the engine block, and connect the black/negative lead to the negative terminal of the battery. Disable the ignition system to keep the engine from starting/running (disconnect & ground the coil wire) and crank the engine while observing voltage. You are measuring voltage drop on that cable which would be caused by any unwanted resistance. Anything over 0.2 Volt (200mV) is excessive and indicates either a loose connection or a faulty cable.
Any wire on the vehicle can be checked in this manner, both on the power side or ground side of a component. Switches, relays, and connectors also can be checked for voltage drop. About 0.1 Volt (100mV) is allowed per component, so several wires, switches, and connectors could add up to 0.5-0.7 Volt. Remember, any voltage which is used up (dropped) in these components is not available to the load components, making motors run slow and light burn dimly.
I hope this translates well, not only from English to any other language, but from "electrical speak" to common terms.
Man, there are so many talented and knowledgeable people on this forum. Nice work.Finally mounting up her twin ARB/ AccuAir combo. Got a ways to go but its moving again.... Overall goal is Front/ rear outside quick connects to air all 4 BF37's and 2 helper bag dedicated feeds for the rear. Took the Dobinson VT route and thinking I'll stick with them and ditch the old dream of full on rear bags. I'll be more than ready to go back if I ever feel the need. Running the internal 4 valve tank I'm kind of excited to get up and going. Probably way overthinking this but hoping to use the internal tank valve system to to inflate all 4 at once and also deflate to a set PSI before hitting the trail, all from the phone with option to add their analog panel for backup if I feel the need. Going with 4 total separate 3/8" lines to speed it along.
View attachment 3176431View attachment 3176432
View attachment 3176435fView attachment 3176436
I've got some rust on mine, and yours look so nice and new. I didn't know if you'd done it.No, why would I? I took all the carpet out to inspect under it. The only rust was a tiny spot.
I've got some rust on mine, and yours look so nice and new. I didn't know if you'd done it.
Good stuff
What a great community! I hope everyone has a peaceful Thanksgiving with their family and friends!Happy Thanksgiving!
View attachment 3176967