What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (49 Viewers)

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1,800-mile round trip to the Ozarks from Colorado last weekend. Didn’t miss a beat.
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That piece has broken off of your existing cable. The fix is a new cable that will have that piece already installed
Speaking of Speedometer cables. Our HDJ80 is showing on Partsouq that the speedo cable is no longer available. Will an FZJ cable be the same?
VIN: Jt111tj8007003915
The part number showing online doesn't show a superseding part. 8371060151

Is the FJ80 speedo cable the same as the early HDJ80?
Advice/Direction Needed: Speedometer Cable Replacement. Never done this before ever. For 91 LC.

Which end do I start with? Gauge or Trans?
Any advice on best ways and how to avoid issues.
 
1,800-mile round trip to the Ozarks from Colorado last weekend. Didn’t miss a beat.
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LOVE the stock look!
Mine is the same but without the suspension update.
Makes me lean towards keeping her stock but update the suspension.
 
Speaking of Speedometer cables. Our HDJ80 is showing on Partsouq that the speedo cable is no longer available. Will an FZJ cable be the same?
VIN: Jt111tj8007003915
The part number showing online doesn't show a superseding part. 8371060151

Is the FJ80 speedo cable the same as the early HDJ80?
The FZJ models don't have a speedo cable. Sensor only. Do some searching here. Someone else recently replaced theirs with something
 
That makes sense, thank you! On that topic is there way to measure negative cable efficiency for a lack of a better word? The difference in negative cables thickness in the car is too varied and I'm sure a lot of is not done correctly.

The very best way to measure cable efficiency is not to measure resistance directly with an Ohmmeter as this does not indicate how well the cable can handle the current needed. Different cable thicknesses in different locations is not necessarily a bad thing, as each circuit has different needs. The cable which carries the most current is of course the one from the engine block to the battery, as it carries all the current from the starter motor when the engine is being cranked.

So, the best way to check this specific cable is to connect a Voltmeter between the two ends. You will want to clip the red/positive lead of the voltmeter to the end of that cable which is bolted to the engine block, and connect the black/negative lead to the negative terminal of the battery. Disable the ignition system to keep the engine from starting/running (disconnect & ground the coil wire) and crank the engine while observing voltage. You are measuring voltage drop on that cable which would be caused by any unwanted resistance. Anything over 0.2 Volt (200mV) is excessive and indicates either a loose connection or a faulty cable.

Any wire on the vehicle can be checked in this manner, both on the power side or ground side of a component. Switches, relays, and connectors also can be checked for voltage drop. About 0.1 Volt (100mV) is allowed per component, so several wires, switches, and connectors could add up to 0.5-0.7 Volt. Remember, any voltage which is used up (dropped) in these components is not available to the load components, making motors run slow and light burn dimly.

I hope this translates well, not only from English to any other language, but from "electrical speak" to common terms.
 
The FZJ models don't have a speedo cable. Sensor only. Do some searching here. Someone else recently replaced theirs with something
Thanks, my bad, I meant FJ80. I thought the early petrol 80's had a cable as well and may be the same from HDJ to FJ. Trying to find a part number, but nothing so far for the HDJ80's.
 
I got back last night being away for a month. I take the truck to a store this morning and the starter decides to shyt the bed.

I called O'Reilly's to get one coming and their reman unit was $226.

I called Olathe Toyota and they had it in stock for $178 and is a Toyota unit.

Guess which one I bought?

No pics. Only took me 7 F'n hours because of trying to dig out my tools,then removed the bad starter (O'Reilly's brand), installed the original Toyota starter that I rebuilt a couple years ago. Got that one installed and the solenoid would engage, but not force the drive gear out to the flex plate. I don't know what I focked up when I rebuilt it then, but it doesn't work.

So that's when I had to start chasing parts.

I'm actually happy that I got a Toyota starter, as I don't expect it to fail for a while. The O'Reilly's starter lasted 5-1/2 years and about 80K miles.

At least now it won't fail at the hotel I'll be at again for the next 2-3 weeks.
 
Finally mounting up her twin ARB/ AccuAir combo. Got a ways to go but its moving again.... Overall goal is Front/ rear outside quick connects to air all 4 BF37's and 2 helper bag dedicated feeds for the rear. Took the Dobinson VT route and thinking I'll stick with them and ditch the old dream of full on rear bags. I'll be more than ready to go back if I ever feel the need. Running the internal 4 valve tank I'm kind of excited to get up and going. Probably way overthinking this but hoping to use the internal tank valve system to to inflate all 4 at once and also deflate to a set PSI before hitting the trail, all from the phone with option to add their analog panel for backup if I feel the need. Going with 4 total separate 3/8" lines to speed it along.

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The very best way to measure cable efficiency is not to measure resistance directly with an Ohmmeter as this does not indicate how well the cable can handle the current needed. Different cable thicknesses in different locations is not necessarily a bad thing, as each circuit has different needs. The cable which carries the most current is of course the one from the engine block to the battery, as it carries all the current from the starter motor when the engine is being cranked.

So, the best way to check this specific cable is to connect a Voltmeter between the two ends. You will want to clip the red/positive lead of the voltmeter to the end of that cable which is bolted to the engine block, and connect the black/negative lead to the negative terminal of the battery. Disable the ignition system to keep the engine from starting/running (disconnect & ground the coil wire) and crank the engine while observing voltage. You are measuring voltage drop on that cable which would be caused by any unwanted resistance. Anything over 0.2 Volt (200mV) is excessive and indicates either a loose connection or a faulty cable.

Any wire on the vehicle can be checked in this manner, both on the power side or ground side of a component. Switches, relays, and connectors also can be checked for voltage drop. About 0.1 Volt (100mV) is allowed per component, so several wires, switches, and connectors could add up to 0.5-0.7 Volt. Remember, any voltage which is used up (dropped) in these components is not available to the load components, making motors run slow and light burn dimly.

I hope this translates well, not only from English to any other language, but from "electrical speak" to common terms.
Thanks for your great explanation and makes perfect sense to me now and hopefully everyone else when chasing gremlins on our now 25+ year old rigs! :cheers:
 
The very best way to measure cable efficiency is not to measure resistance directly with an Ohmmeter as this does not indicate how well the cable can handle the current needed. Different cable thicknesses in different locations is not necessarily a bad thing, as each circuit has different needs. The cable which carries the most current is of course the one from the engine block to the battery, as it carries all the current from the starter motor when the engine is being cranked.

So, the best way to check this specific cable is to connect a Voltmeter between the two ends. You will want to clip the red/positive lead of the voltmeter to the end of that cable which is bolted to the engine block, and connect the black/negative lead to the negative terminal of the battery. Disable the ignition system to keep the engine from starting/running (disconnect & ground the coil wire) and crank the engine while observing voltage. You are measuring voltage drop on that cable which would be caused by any unwanted resistance. Anything over 0.2 Volt (200mV) is excessive and indicates either a loose connection or a faulty cable.

Any wire on the vehicle can be checked in this manner, both on the power side or ground side of a component. Switches, relays, and connectors also can be checked for voltage drop. About 0.1 Volt (100mV) is allowed per component, so several wires, switches, and connectors could add up to 0.5-0.7 Volt. Remember, any voltage which is used up (dropped) in these components is not available to the load components, making motors run slow and light burn dimly.

I hope this translates well, not only from English to any other language, but from "electrical speak" to common terms.
This is great, thank you for taking the time to explain. My rig has been deeply neglected and with my OCD and my lack of knowledge i really appreciate a common sense approach to diagnosing and baselining.This helps me understand how well the compononets function individually then all put together.

I will give it a go next weekened thanks again.
 
Finally mounting up her twin ARB/ AccuAir combo. Got a ways to go but its moving again.... Overall goal is Front/ rear outside quick connects to air all 4 BF37's and 2 helper bag dedicated feeds for the rear. Took the Dobinson VT route and thinking I'll stick with them and ditch the old dream of full on rear bags. I'll be more than ready to go back if I ever feel the need. Running the internal 4 valve tank I'm kind of excited to get up and going. Probably way overthinking this but hoping to use the internal tank valve system to to inflate all 4 at once and also deflate to a set PSI before hitting the trail, all from the phone with option to add their analog panel for backup if I feel the need. Going with 4 total separate 3/8" lines to speed it along.

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Man, there are so many talented and knowledgeable people on this forum. Nice work.
 

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