Is this related to the ditch that killed your spare carrier?
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (30 Viewers)
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Day 3, great camp-site although we did have a snake incident, thought our dog had been bit
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
Beauski100
SILVER Star
So my new to me 93 that supposedly has less than 500miles on the rebuild started to leak fuel. Tonight the plan was to pull the throttle body and upper manifold and inspect the injectors, but look i what I found along the way. I’m a newb and learning as I go… what causes this sludge in the manifold?
Hope the pooch is okay!!!!
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No, just adjust the length of the drag link (the link that goes to the steering box). Adjusting its length moves the steering wheel relative to the wheels, it has no affect on alignment (toe etc).
Tyres on the ground, key in ignition and turned to unlock the steering wheel (accessory position is fine). Wheels pointed straight forward so the steering wheel is in the natural position for the wheels to be straight - so in our/your case the steering wheel will be pointing to something other than 12 o'clock.
Then with both of the clamps on the link loosened and moved off of the 'clamp area', i.e. off of the split part of each end of the link, you then can rotate the link. IF you are lucky it will rotate freely, likely it wont due to years of being clamped and mud and dirt and grime etc - and obviously much worse depending on where your 80 has lived. If yours is an AZ vehicle then it won't be too bad. I'd suggest spraying with your favourite break free lubricant for a week or so prior to working on it. In my case the DS rotated freely and I only had to break free the PS side and it didn't need any cheater bars etc. Just an 18" stillson and probably a 10" crescent was enough leverage.
I used the crescent to hold the rod end (there's sort of a flat area where the crescent can grab near the rubber bellows of the rod end) and then a stillson to grab and rotate the link (not in the split part of the link). Some folk have had to pop the rod ends out and take the link to a vise/bench to beat on it enough to release the years of 'glue'...
With the link able to rotate (lengthen/shorten) you just adjust it and examine the steering wheel (a helper helps in this case). You rotate the link and observe the steering wheel move to the 12 o'clock position. TIghten the clamps back in place and go for a drive and confirm the new steering wheel position. If necessary you can perform another tweak to the link length to home in on 12 o'clock. Then tighten the clamps well and you're done.
cheers,
george.
Roads along the Wisconsin River are awesome. If you want some nice National Forest Land go up farther north to the Chequamegon National Forest if you haven't already been there. Lots of nice dispersed camping and some 'barrens' land too.Very close in geography. I was actually in the Dells Region just south east of Lake Petenwell. They are doing some Oak Savana restoration in a designated natural area. This means temporary access and skid steer tracks to play in
I am looking for a driftless area spot to explore. Once i find one ill post up on the Minnesota Overlanders FB page
Most of MN overland and 4x4 is generally in the north from what I can tell.
George,
Thank you. I have the Marlin Crawler upgraded steering links and hope that things go well. I plan on doing this over the weekend hopefully it fixes my issues with the steering wheel.
Scott
Yes our dog Leo is ok, now he is winning hearts in a small town caravan park for a few nights
Stock gears? pulling in reverse? That sucks man.
Moved my 80 up to the central Oregon coast from GrASS valley, Ca 2 weeks ago , just bought some Toyo A/T tires about an hour ago online and am looking for a 80s group up this way !
any tips on determining if its the drag link causing a steering wheel mis-alignment, or the wheel itself is mis-aligned on the steering shaft?
my wheel has been off so its possible it was put back on a tooth or two off. my wheel sits about 11 o'clock with the tires straight.
I was about to ask how your wheels could be mounted "a tooth or two off" then my brain caught up with my eyes and I realized you meant steering wheel not wheel-wheel... and to answer your question, I don't think the steering wheel can be "misaligned" on the steering shaft. What I mean is, the adjusted length of the drag link is set a certain way to ensure the steering wheel is upright when the tires are straight. It has no affect on tire alignment. So, you can just adjust the drag link to "straighten" the steering wheel and the net effect on moving the tires will be the same as if you removed the steering wheel and manually mounted it in a straight position. If your alignment is off, it will still be off. If it is OK, it will remain OK. All the link does is translate steering wheel movement to the passenger knuckle.
Edit: the caveat to my reply is if you run out of adjustment in the link ends (read, tie rod comes out or is threaded all the way in. Then you definitely need to remove the steering wheel, reset the drag link, install steering wheel, then fine tune for position.
yea, its your edit that has me worried. but i guess if i have enough adjustment at the draglink to straighten the STEERING WHEEL
then i'll move on and worry about something else more important
If your steering wheel is at 11ish then I doubt you'll come close to running out of adjustment. But even if you do, you haven't hurt anything, just wasted a little time.yea, its your edit that has me worried. but i guess if i have enough adjustment at the draglink to straighten the STEERING WHEEL
Steering geometry footnote:
Removing the steering wheel and "re-clocking" it to make it "level" affects centering of the steering box. You will now have fewer turns to stop in one direction than the other. In addition the steering box is now off of its natural center which is where it wants to be to have neutral hydraulic pressure.
The steering box will be in a slight turn when the vehicle is traveling straight. There will also be more steering effort, from one direction to the other when transitioning from straight line travel.
Bottom line is pulling and re-clocking the steering wheel will straighten it out but it really isn't the right way to do it. That is the drag link's job.
YMMV
Removing the steering wheel and "re-clocking" it to make it "level" affects centering of the steering box. You will now have fewer turns to stop in one direction than the other. In addition the steering box is now off of its natural center which is where it wants to be to have neutral hydraulic pressure.
The steering box will be in a slight turn when the vehicle is traveling straight. There will also be more steering effort, from one direction to the other when transitioning from straight line travel.
Bottom line is pulling and re-clocking the steering wheel will straighten it out but it really isn't the right way to do it. That is the drag link's job.
YMMV
I'm pretty sure I had read this somewhere else but I had forgotten. Thanks for reminding us all. So with that in mind, how do we tell if the output shaft from the gearbox is "centered"?
There is a scribed line on the end of the sector shaft, at the pitman arm end. That line should be pointed straight forward.
It is important to remember that if the sector shaft is twisted you can point the line straight but the box centering will still be off due to the twist. Twisting occurs above the pitman arm, at the base of the splines.
Oh, forgot.
If the steering wheel is off center and in that orientation the scribed line on the sector shaft is in fact pointed straight ahead, the sector shaft is twisted.
If the steering wheel is off center and in that orientation the scribed line on the sector shaft is in fact pointed straight ahead, the sector shaft is twisted.
