What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (46 Viewers)

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Mattyboy said:
I dont have a garage, or the time to get it ready for Brine season AKA winter. The rig is from California with very little rust. I will spend some quality time next summer prepping it for next winter. I dont have a place to keep it here. next fall I will dose the undercarriage with bar and chain oil. I am low on cash after the puchase, so I can't pay for any mechanical work now. I can buy parts and get ready to wrench for a few heavy weekends to get my oil leaks under control.
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Ok. Makes sense. What makes more sense is to sell your other car! :cheers:
 
Mattyboy said:
Agreed! I need to do some serious shakedown runs and make sure it's rock solid!
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We don't have time for practicality here! Jump in head first! Your shakedown run was supposed to be you driving it from California! :steer:
 
Dropped my tank and found this:

IMG_1699.JPG
IMG_1698.JPG
 
Transmission rebuild completed. Back on the road.

Washed her and decided to keep the 35's on.
 
Need some input. I want to eliminate my charcoal canister. So I figured I could put an inline fuel filter in its place. And go straight from the tank to the VCV. I have deleted my EGR so the VCV shouldn't even be in play. Correct. And nothing from the VCV should flow backwards, in theory.

Am I completely wrong in this thinking? Am I sacrificing safety? Reliability? Fuel mileage?

I went ahead and opened the canister up and serviced it if I need to put it back.

What does everyone think?

IMG_2982.JPG
 
LS1FJ40 said:
Need some input. I want to eliminate my charcoal canister. So I figured I could put an inline fuel filter in its place. And go straight from the tank to the VCV. I have deleted my EGR so the VCV shouldn't even be in play. Correct. And nothing from the VCV should flow backwards, in theory.

Am I completely wrong in this thinking? Am I sacrificing safety? Reliability? Fuel mileage?

I went ahead and opened the canister up and serviced it if I need to put it back.

What does everyone think?

View attachment 1361653
Click to expand...


This thread may help

I put an end to my Charcoal Canister problems for good!
 
Readjusted my spare tire lift backwards to get the tire to stop rubbing the phr. It sits a little lower now, but it fits my 315/75/16 BFG ko2 barely. It would be removed for any sort of off-roading anyways, but its plenty good for daily driving.

20161204_155643_1.jpg
 
More baselining, changed oil, followed forum direction and fixed fusible link, still checking the truck out, took it for a ride and am impressed with how it drives, can't wait to get the new tires installed and a front end alignment... wits end exploded knuckle rebuild diagram came in today @NLXTACY , nice addition to the shop, so of course I added a wits end sticker.... forgot to add I got a CEL today driving around, scanned it and of course it's throwing P0401 and P0141 EGR and 02, did some research here and seems I have my work cut out for me with the EGR headache, read conflicting threads about bypassing with a resistor but really want to get to the root of the issue and solve it...guessing the O2 code could be tied to it as well but still have more research to do....

20161204_133141_zpszo4gyt4d.jpg
 
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SharpasMarbles said:
More baselining, changed oil fixed fusible link, still checking the truck out, took it for a ride and am impressed withhow it drives, can't wait to get the new tires installed and a front end alignment... wits end exploded knuckle rebuild diagram came in today, nice addition to the shop, so of course I added a wits end sticker....

20161204_133141_zpszo4gyt4d.jpg
Click to expand...

Heck yeah! I have a white one I can send you if you prefer ;)
 
Having a brake issue now...the pedal goes all the way to the floor with ease and have to pump the brake to come to a complete stop. Bled all the lines, they looked fine. Replaced pads, calipers, fluid earlier this year so all of that should be fine too.

Tested the lines around the master cylinder and appeared fine also. I'm guessing something internal with the master cylinder so was going to replace it and hope that's it(or is a rebuild kit a better option?). Any other suggestions before I do so?
 
FloridaCruiser22 said:
Having a brake issue now...the pedal goes all the way to the floor with ease and have to pump the brake to come to a complete stop. Bled all the lines, they looked fine. Replaced pads, calipers, fluid earlier this year so all of that should be fine too.

Tested the lines around the master cylinder and appeared fine also. I'm guessing something internal with the master cylinder so was going to replace it and hope that's it(or is a rebuild kit a better option?). Any other suggestions before I do so?
Click to expand...

Brake booster...
 
Topped off the knuckles and confirmed diff fluid levels. Fixed the horns, installed daytime running lights. Inspected front brakes. Still gotta check rears. Hopefully it will pass safety soon. Also: anti-corrosion treatment coming ASAP. Still waiting for my sprayer to arrive. We are getting 30cm of snow, so it's time to be ready...
 
FloridaCruiser22 said:
Isn't it the brake booster when the pedal is stiff, not loose/soft?
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Brake booster would be when there is nothing and then it gets stiff. You have to push it hard to the floor.
 
LS1FJ40 said:
Brake booster would be when there is nothing and then it gets stiff. You have to push it hard to the floor.
Click to expand...

I still don't think it's that though...the pedal doesn't really get stiff at all. It stays loose, pump it a little bit(even when pusing hard to floor), works regularly for 5 secs then loose again
 
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