I put an end to my Charcoal Canister problems for good! (12 Viewers)

[LandCruiserPhil]

In the past I rebuilt my canister but recently the problem popped back up and once I experience a problem 3 times I change directions and look for a final fix.

The canister has 3 lines -
1 - comes straight from the tank with a one way valve at the canister < the problem
1 - goes to the VCV valve
1 - out the bottom and vent to the outside

After reviewing the FSM I see no reason for a check valve (the problem) so I ellimanated it. After 1000 miles with 100° - 35° temp and 1000' - to 7500' altitude I see no codes, gas smell, or problems down the road. Im done with this problem for GOOD.

If you think this mod will add to global warming keep it to yourself

NOTE: Pictures cheerfully stolen form internet and not mine

The process -

Grind the rim off the canister to grain inside access
Pop it open
Drill a ~1/4" hole on the tank side where you see the ball
Dump the ball out and make sure the passage is clear
Replace the active carbon inside
Reassemble the canister
Press the top in place and tack weld close
Paint the cut line to keep everything pretty
Never worry about your canister again.

If you dont have the skills PM me for help

 

[Walletclan]

Nice!

 

[Hornd]

Is there any way this canister could have gas in it?
I would not grind on it for any amount of $$$ if it did.

 

[Hornd]

You can also put an inline filter on the suction side to tank, plug the side to the motor, and use the canister space for something worthwhile as well.

 

[Output Shaft]

Good info.
Although the primary intention of the check valve in the cc is to apply a small back pressure to the gas tank to minimize vapors evaporating into the atmosphere and polluting the air...

in performing that smog abatement task, the check valve in the cc also slows down the evaporation in the tank and minimizes moisture from entering.

When the check valve is removed, the tank then breathes freely to atmosphere. Every day when the temperature rises, the tank breathes out, and every evening, the tank breathes in the cold air...and moisture which condenses inside the tank.

Although not an issue for a vehicle that is driven regularly with the gas tank filled regularly, cruisers that are infrequently driven will develop fuel degradation (fuel going bad) faster and rust issues inside the tank faster when the check valve in the cc is bypassed.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Good info.
Although the primary intention of the check valve in the cc is to apply a small back pressure to the gas tank to minimize vapors evaporating into the atmosphere and polluting the air...

in performing that smog abatement task, the check valve in the cc also slows down the evaporation in the tank and minimizes moisture from entering.

When the check valve is removed, the tank then breathes freely to atmosphere. Every day when the temperature rises, the tank breathes out, and every evening, the tank breathes in the cold air...and moisture which condenses inside the tank.

Although not an issue for a vehicle that is driven regularly with the gas tank filled regularly, cruisers that are infrequently driven will develop fuel degradation (fuel going bad) faster and rust issues inside the tank faster when the check valve in the cc is bypassed.

A recommended solution is to drive the damn thing!!!

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Is there any way this canister could have gas in it?
I would not grind on it for any amount of $$$ if it did.

nope

 

[mct75]

I have a carbureted mini truck that had two (!) charcoal canisters. I removed both of them and just left the hardline open to the air. It has been working fine for years and I've never smelled gas.

On my 3FE I really want to remove all of the vacuum lines for all emissions equipment. This includes the vacuum hardlines inside the manifold that people seem inclined to just cap off and ignore. It turns out that with a disabled EGR the evap canister never actually purges, at least if I understand the vacuum diagram correctly. I am tempted to just removed the canister and be done with it.

 

[LS1FJ40]

You can also put an inline filter on the suction side to tank, plug the side to the motor, and use the canister space for something worthwhile as well.

Got a picture of this by chance?

 

[Dissent]

So, you don't need that donor cannister anymore then?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

So, you don't need that donor cannister anymore then?

Chances are is could be worth good money to someone wanting to keep the factory look.

As for the concern of the mositure being creatived. The tank does not exactly breathes freely to atmosphere with a canister filled. Me and hunderds other have built tanks and rods and used only a filler to vent tanks for the last 100 years without issue.

 

[Dissent]

I'm not wholly satisfied with the Delco cram and fit replacement. I may chop this one up and try this out.

 

[mct75]

Chances are is could be worth good money to someone wanting to keep the factory look.

As for the concern of the mositure being creatived. The tank does not exactly breathes freely to atmosphere with a canister filled. Me and hunderds other have built tanks and rods and used only a filler to vent tanks for the last 100 years without issue.

Would you put a breather of some sort on line in the engine bay, or seal it up and get a vented gas cap?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Would you put a breather of some sort on line in the engine bay, or seal it up and get a vented gas cap?

Canister is the breather, as it was before and is now. The only differance is no one way breather from the tank.

 

[mct75]

I'm sorry, I meant if the canister were to be removed.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I'm sorry, I meant if the canister were to be removed.

You still need to feed the CVC valve, not sure how that would work long term with emission and CEL codes. With a clogged canisiter the CVC gets its feed via the vent at the bottom of the canister.

 

[mct75]

The problem is, I have removed the EGR system on my 3FE, and by studying the vacuum diagrams, the VCV is operated by the EGR port on the throttle body. Thus my VCV and evap system are inoperable.

I just want to remove it all, but want to do so safely.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

The problem is, I have removed the EGR system on my 3FE, and by studying the vacuum diagrams, the VCV is operated by the EGR port on the throttle body. Thus my VCV and evap system are inoperable.

I just want to remove it all, but want to do so safely.

Sorry I dont know for sure

 

[mct75]

Less "pollution controlled" areas seem to have no problem with connecting the purge port right to the throttle body.

22R-TE example:

 

[tacoma2002]

Sub'd.

Would like to find out about the charcoal canister on the 3F-E as well. I removed the smog related equipment (AP/EGR/etc) a week or so ago. Would like to ditch all this crap if possible.