Packed and left for 10 days of camping.
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What front and rear bumper are you runningFinally drove it for a bit
What front and rear bumper are you running
Finished her up. New nutserts in every hole. Goo’d up with FIPG before squeezing and finished with @NLXTACY hardware. I’m happy. New (to me) Gamiviti 30/60 risers and the rack sits pretty darn low now.Started the OEM luggage rack delete. Not terrible comparably I guess. Also added a sticker
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Nope. Not related at all.Planned to do a full front birf job today but discovered it to be in such good condition that I rechecked the previous owner’s maintence binder and found a more recent front job done close to 30k ago. Back side looked good so we buttoned it back up and skipped to step 6.
Here’s the thing though. We had engaged the factory lockers before jacking it up to make it easier to get the axles in and out. It had been a while since I had engaged the lockers and the center diff was slow to respond. We took it out to the dirt and it finally lit up. as soon as it locked the front and rear lights went solid as well. We disengaged front rear and center and drove it back to my house. There we engaged all three and drove it up the driveway to where we were going to work on it.
When we finished up and disengaged the lockers at the switches and backed up the driveway the center turned off but not the front and rear. We tried driving it forward but they remained locked. Drove it around the cul de sac with a bit of scrubbing but they stayed locked. Turned off the ignition to see if it would cycle the actuators and when I tried to start it up it lit up like a Christmas tree and the starter was non responsive. Battery is brand new and fine, accessories and windows work fine. It feels like the steering is bound up as the diffs are still locked. Anything related to the locker activation that could disrupt the starter circuit?
I really think I’m dealing with a huge coincidence. I just had some electronic accessory work done and they were all over the battery area. So strange that it happened while I was trying to unlock the diffs. Probably a fuse or relay. I’ll get it run down.Nope. Not related at all.
Not unless you messed with wiring someplace.
So if it is a fuse or relay that is preventing the starter from engaging what are the likely suspects?Nope. Not related at all.
Not unless you messed with wiring someplace.
1) Do you have a CEL with key in RUN position?So if it is a fuse or relay that is preventing the starter from engaging what are the likely suspects?
All accessories getting power. Lights, windows, a/c. Battery has full charge.1) Do you have a CEL with key in RUN position?
2) Any click, anything at all when you turn the key?
3) What systems for work? Dome lights, clock, radio, headlights, etc.
Does the Check Engine Light illuminate? If not, the ECU does not have what it needs.All accessories getting power. Lights, windows, a/c. Battery has full charge.
When I turn it to start all kinds of warning lights illuminate. - brakes, oil, at, abs. Looks like Christmas.
No clicking. No response from the starter.
Solenoid? EFI relay?
Edited above. CEL lights up along with several others.Does the Check Engine Light illuminate? If not, the ECU does not have what it needs.
If so, then it's probably the starter solenoid on the starter itself or the power cable from the battery to the starter.
There is no starter relayEdited above. CEL lights up along with several others.
Dang dude, 13 years of temporary ain't bad!!Well, this will probably be the longest brake booster replacement in history. The story I'm telling is this was done in the driveway without shade and it hot here in the summer.
It failed at the end of April. I decided it was time to replace all the rubber lines and the master cylinder. It took awhile to order all the parts and It was a busy summer for me at work, but started in June and had it all buttoned up at the end of July. Replaced the battery box with a new one and was ready to roll. Went to start and it would run very rough for a few seconds and then die. I could smell fuel and was getting spark since it would run terribly. I then started chipping away, passed the fusible link check, AFM check, VAF check, COR check, EFI fuse check, and some other stuff. I was getting ready to pull the factory alarm when I started looking for voltage/resistance across everything. 0.6V drop across the ignition circuit and higher resistance than it should be. Maybe I tweaked the links when replacing the battery box.
Well, changing out my fusible links is not be a simple swap. @alia176 and @OGBeno helped me out of a pickle where my fusible links were hacked up by an engine detailer and killed a couple of alternators while on a trip to the four corners in 2009. RTH: Testing the altenator This was suppose to be a temporary fix. 13 years later I finally spliced in the correct connector instead of a hard wired fusible link. Your fix lasted a long time Ali, good job!
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It started right up after about 3 seconds of cranking.