tampacruiser95
Upgrades are coming.
Removed all the broken wood trim from the 80 by following a thread here from 2008.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (47 Viewers)
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ToyotaDon
I am here
If I was to have my A/C system evacuated, what else would one do while they were in there?
I found a good guide on the condenser box.
A/C system - how to remove the cooling unit, evaporator, expansion valve
It's summer and some of us are experiencing A/C troubles so I think it's time to do a writeup on how to remove the cooling unit, evaporator and expansion valve out of a '97 80 series. Removal of the cooling unit is very straight forward, plan on about half hour and minimal cursing :D You...forum.ih8mud.com
anything else?
To answer your question, you need to let us know if you have an A/C problem, and we should clarify some terms. Evacuating the system is not removal of the refrigerant--that is called recovery. The box behind the dash contains the evaporator, and the condenser is in front of the radiator.
Is there a problem with the A/C system?
ToyotaDon
I am here
I never understand why those drain plugs cause such trouble, when the torque spec is only 36 ft. lb. Using an impact wrench may also not be the best idea--a quality 6-point socket and a breaker bar should do the trick.
Bearing in the compressor rotor is toast, it wobbles (weaves?) and is quite loud when driving, and clunky / noisy when turned by hand (Idler was replaced by PO, is quiet when spun)
I have the belt off now, but want to get things sorted out before the heat arrives in NC
My next steps are:
1. Try and loosen the compressor bolts while keeping the system charged so I can get a better angle on the snap ring that holds the compressor wheel on.
2. If that works then replace the bearing.
3. If I cannot get to that snapring, I will probably recover the refrigerant, pull the compressor, clean out the condenser box, evaluate fixing the compressor wheel, or just getting a whole new compressor assembly (denso direct replacement is $200) (which includes a new compressor wheel and bearing)
Snapring in red is the current subject of swearing.
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ToyotaDon
I am here
That's good information, and you are correct that the compressor pulley and clutch can be replaced without recovering the refrigerant. I would recommend getting a pair of right angle snap ring pliers (it looks like Knipex brand is available at Home Depot) and try to get at it with the compressor in place. Be sure when you remove the clutch plate, if you haven't already, to watch for any spacer shims and put the same ones back in. If you have an FSM, be sure to use it. Otherwise, look for pictures or video of how those pieces come apart and go back together.
IKR?! I was using a six point socket and breaker bar, but my bar is only 15". I will see if I can get my hands on a longer one (TWSS!) And try again.
I have not yet, no. But I've been thinking about joining. Is there a February meeting? The website mentions March at a new location, but nothing about a February date
93yotasr5
Come and take it
Does he have a website to order from?
I repeatedly questioned it why some idiot put those radiator nuts behind the headlight
CPACruiser
Supporting Vendor
Some light snow wheeling and "rock crawling" to a decent view
Trail tailor front hooks.
Acsd delete
New hand primer
Sprayed down the engine bay
Vacuumed it.
Watched my daughter clean out the junk drawer on my tool box.
Acsd delete
New hand primer
Sprayed down the engine bay
Vacuumed it.
Watched my daughter clean out the junk drawer on my tool box.
@roflbox
You can, without disconnecting the refrigerant lines, move the compressor around and flip it upside down yielding full access to the nose of the compressor. When you get that far you may find that just the bearing is worn out but it's also possible, maybe even likely, that the aluminum on the nose of the compressor where the bearing fits is worn away. If this is the case the new bearing will wobble on the nose of the compressor and your clutch gap will be off from one side to the other when you tension the belt, etc.
It's not worth the effort but I found myself in this situation without the time to do a full system service so I used aluminum quick weld rods and basically soldered some new material on then filed it down for bearing fit. Was able to do this one evening and keep rolling. 8 months after that repair and my AC is still working properly and is used fairly frequently as I leave my CE in "auto" mode most of the time. My final clutch gap was a little off side to side after my soldering, filing/etc. but it's not enough to cause noise or clutch/belt wear etc. I don't recommend this repair but it's not one I've heard of others doing and you may find yourself in a similar situation once the old bearing is off.
Best option is to replace compressor, drier and whatever other parts you want to update while the system is open. Replacing bearings on the compressor is often going to be a short-term fix that only gets you so far, though it could still make sense if you don't mind risking the time / work involved.
You can, without disconnecting the refrigerant lines, move the compressor around and flip it upside down yielding full access to the nose of the compressor. When you get that far you may find that just the bearing is worn out but it's also possible, maybe even likely, that the aluminum on the nose of the compressor where the bearing fits is worn away. If this is the case the new bearing will wobble on the nose of the compressor and your clutch gap will be off from one side to the other when you tension the belt, etc.
It's not worth the effort but I found myself in this situation without the time to do a full system service so I used aluminum quick weld rods and basically soldered some new material on then filed it down for bearing fit. Was able to do this one evening and keep rolling. 8 months after that repair and my AC is still working properly and is used fairly frequently as I leave my CE in "auto" mode most of the time. My final clutch gap was a little off side to side after my soldering, filing/etc. but it's not enough to cause noise or clutch/belt wear etc. I don't recommend this repair but it's not one I've heard of others doing and you may find yourself in a similar situation once the old bearing is off.
Best option is to replace compressor, drier and whatever other parts you want to update while the system is open. Replacing bearings on the compressor is often going to be a short-term fix that only gets you so far, though it could still make sense if you don't mind risking the time / work involved.
Replaced the factory stereo with a Kenwood unit. Nice to have Bluetooth, Apple CarPlay, phone connectivity and a backup camera. Replaced the front and rear door speakers with 6.5” Alpines and added an Alpine amplifier. Had to enlarge the hole in the rear doors to fit the larger speakers. So much more sound. Not enough bass yet but I plan to mount a pair of Infinity 6x9s in the back where the grab handles are.
Sprayed the door interiors with sound deadener and put sound absorbing melamine foam behind the speakers so I had to remove my vapor barrier. Replaced it today with 6mm plastic.
Finally got the jerry can holder from 4x4Labs fabbed up so I bolted it on today. Added a mount for a propane tank underneath.
Also beefed up the recovery points on the ARB front bumper. I’ll never understand why they made them so thin. I’ve seen several that were bent from an off-angle recovery.
Also beefed up the recovery points on the ARB front bumper. I’ll never understand why they made them so thin. I’ve seen several that were bent from an off-angle recovery.
@69 Pigboy the front points on the ARB are for a high lift jack, they are not recovery points.
Nice work. ARB, because they are not intended to be recovery points...
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2003
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 4,475
- Location
- Sunnyvale, CA
- Website
- www.george4wd.taskled.com
Decided to switch to synthetic (dyneema) for various recovery bits.
So, bought some 7/16 amsteel and fids and a bunch of reading/youtube etc.
Soft shackle before knot tightening and burying the tails
Then made a short extension - might come in handy for something
My 90' of 5/8" that I bought many years ago from a guy that use to sell on ebay and worked at amsteel and got off cuts 'cheap'. I found the old receipt - scary what it would cost these days. Seriously strong winch extension.
Ditched the 'hook' on the end of the winch and went with 'new tech', but not paying crazy factor 55 pricing. It's just a big chunk of alloy...
And checking that one of my soft shackles will fit through the block's hole. Though I do have 5/8" steel shackles - one is sitting on the roobar.
And some rings
cheers,
george.
So, bought some 7/16 amsteel and fids and a bunch of reading/youtube etc.
Soft shackle before knot tightening and burying the tails
Then made a short extension - might come in handy for something
My 90' of 5/8" that I bought many years ago from a guy that use to sell on ebay and worked at amsteel and got off cuts 'cheap'. I found the old receipt - scary what it would cost these days. Seriously strong winch extension.
Ditched the 'hook' on the end of the winch and went with 'new tech', but not paying crazy factor 55 pricing. It's just a big chunk of alloy...
And checking that one of my soft shackles will fit through the block's hole. Though I do have 5/8" steel shackles - one is sitting on the roobar.
And some rings
cheers,
george.
Fair enough. Just saw the other post about their being intended for a highlift jack. They should be suitable for recovery now that they’re an inch thick….
Like @Comet stated, HiLift acc attachement is used there..
