Damn than sucks, I would hate to see how much carnage you could do in a weekend offroading with that kind of luck.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (69 Viewers)
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Damn than sucks, I would hate to see how much carnage you could do in a weekend offroading with that kind of luck.
CPACruiser
Supporting Vendor
Purchased and installed a RC Pro Series 9500S.
For the price I paid it was hard to beat. $350
I do have to relocate the solenoid, also I had to do a little finagling with the trans cooler to be able to actuate the clutch. Next weekend I hope to get to put it to use
Specs:
3 stage planetary
265:1
IP67 rated
85ft rope
Sliding ring clutch
5.5 hp
For the price I paid it was hard to beat. $350
I do have to relocate the solenoid, also I had to do a little finagling with the trans cooler to be able to actuate the clutch. Next weekend I hope to get to put it to use
Specs:
3 stage planetary
265:1
IP67 rated
85ft rope
Sliding ring clutch
5.5 hp
Last edited:
94trilocked
Supporting Vendor
these things do not usually happen to me! I swear!
Anyway... I did manage to replace my hood support struts, disassembled the power antenna (bummer it's a drum and smooth nylon cable type...), So I bought replacement antenna and tail lights today. I'll see how horrible these are.
Amazon product ASIN B0038AX3TY
Finally bolted up the surface mount pintle on top of the delta bumper using the OEM frame nuts. Class 5 hitch mounted to a class 2 attachment point. What could possibly go wrong?
I took my roof rack off awhile ago to do some work on the roof and the rack. Today I got around to putting the rack back on. While the rack was off I decided to upgrade my old ARB lights with LED bulbs. I decided I wanted to keep these lights because I like the old school looks of them and one new light costs about as much as the 4 new LED bulbs.
I still need to zip tie a few more wires and put some silicone on the grommets where the wires go into the lights. Hopefully I can get out in the next few days and get these lights adjusted to my liking.
I also installed these army surplus 20,000 pound shackles that got delivered yesterday.
In my opinion these were a great deal at $25.00 for the pair shipped off flea bay.
I still need to zip tie a few more wires and put some silicone on the grommets where the wires go into the lights. Hopefully I can get out in the next few days and get these lights adjusted to my liking.
I also installed these army surplus 20,000 pound shackles that got delivered yesterday.
In my opinion these were a great deal at $25.00 for the pair shipped off flea bay.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 200
- Messages
- 12,497
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
Sunday fun day! 
Cheers
Cheers
Im going ham getting my first FJ80 on solid footing. I got it for $2300 on the big island (a steal! Or so I thought). 1992 with 313k on the chassis, 160k on the engine, and a ton of deferred maintenance. Almost no rust whatsoever though—a big deal in Hawaii.
this week:
-Exchanged the break fluid and bled the system of air
-replaced drum brake shoes.
It stops when i need it to now.
-installed new Sony xav-1000 sterand speakers. Probably most important upgrade to my joy of just driving the beast. there were no brackets, so first I ordered a pair from partsouq that actually fit an fj62, then got the right set this past week.
-replaced one o2 sensor—the blown one. Truck runs way better; engine seemed to be misfiring before. Waiting on replacement bolts before trying the other.
-braced what’s left of a cat shield and rattling exhaust parts with steel hose clamps.
-twice cleaned heater blower that filled with junk from the outside and from within the truck and spun like a banshee
-greased the dry, clicking knuckles
-at this very moment, vacuuming and detailing interior
next
-Full tune up kit, filters, spark plugs and wires
-2nd o2 sensor
-when I get replacement plugs and washers—drain and fill transfer case, diffs, transmission.
-replace vacuum hoses
-replace random hoses and tubes capped or Jerry rigged in engine by PO
near plans:
Raptor line it. Current paint is awful.
rebuild knuckles and replace birfs if clicking doesn’t get any better after filling with grease
longer term, if the truck proves to be reliable after maintenance: lift, 35s, armor.
big island has a lot of gnarly roads. I live a couple miles up a 4wd road, so I kinda get to wheel a little bit everyday in the meantime.
also next week:
Buying a 1993 with 211k from a mechanic who did a ton of work on it for a girlfriend: rebuilt trans, serviced engine, rebuilt front axle, new radiator (had a small leak he says). They’ve been over for a while, so he just wants it gone because he’s not fond of the memory. All it needs is the interior put back together and the trans solenoids replaced (thank you ih8mud for helping me figure that one out!)
and a scrub. Photo attached.
The 80 addiction is real.
this week:
-Exchanged the break fluid and bled the system of air
-replaced drum brake shoes.
It stops when i need it to now.
-installed new Sony xav-1000 sterand speakers. Probably most important upgrade to my joy of just driving the beast. there were no brackets, so first I ordered a pair from partsouq that actually fit an fj62, then got the right set this past week.
-replaced one o2 sensor—the blown one. Truck runs way better; engine seemed to be misfiring before. Waiting on replacement bolts before trying the other.
-braced what’s left of a cat shield and rattling exhaust parts with steel hose clamps.
-twice cleaned heater blower that filled with junk from the outside and from within the truck and spun like a banshee
-greased the dry, clicking knuckles
-at this very moment, vacuuming and detailing interior
next
-Full tune up kit, filters, spark plugs and wires
-2nd o2 sensor
-when I get replacement plugs and washers—drain and fill transfer case, diffs, transmission.
-replace vacuum hoses
-replace random hoses and tubes capped or Jerry rigged in engine by PO
near plans:
Raptor line it. Current paint is awful.
rebuild knuckles and replace birfs if clicking doesn’t get any better after filling with grease
longer term, if the truck proves to be reliable after maintenance: lift, 35s, armor.
big island has a lot of gnarly roads. I live a couple miles up a 4wd road, so I kinda get to wheel a little bit everyday in the meantime.
also next week:
Buying a 1993 with 211k from a mechanic who did a ton of work on it for a girlfriend: rebuilt trans, serviced engine, rebuilt front axle, new radiator (had a small leak he says). They’ve been over for a while, so he just wants it gone because he’s not fond of the memory. All it needs is the interior put back together and the trans solenoids replaced (thank you ih8mud for helping me figure that one out!)
and a scrub. Photo attached.
The 80 addiction is real.
Don't want to rain on your parade but be careful of side-loading those shackles since they can slide left-right in the recovery points. Not trying to be a jerk, it would just suck to damage your bumper or worse, get injured.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Get drill, make hole in rust-free fender.
Yeah I totally agree even though they are rated at a 20,000 lb safe working load and they shouldn't break until 3x that amount of weight, hell they were designed to be used on deuce and half trucks....... But better safe than sorry.
In fact these shackles will be used for attaching soft shackles to a tree saver or possibly used for joining two lines or straps together and other miscellaneous things where the extra width with will be advantageous. I just threw them on the bumper because I needed a spot to keep them until I can put together a new bag for recovery gear soon.
There are the shackles that will be used on the bumper recovery points. They are only rated with a 7,000 lb safe working load, but I haved trusted Crosby shackles with my life on jobsites numerous times and I will continue to do so. If anything is going to fail in my system it will be the synthetic winch line.
I think the shackles have a higher breaking fail factor, but worth checking the breaking strengths
I was always taught that the braking load on any certified piece of rigging equipment is 3x the working load. I could be wrong, this is just what I was taught when I was going through school for the union years ago.
The red Crosby shackles have a working load of 7,000lbs and the military shackles have a working load of 20,000lbs.
Maybe the military uses a different load system than non-military equipment because they don't seem that much beefier than the Crosby shackles.... Either way they are both going to be plenty strong for my needs lol
Different rigging components will have different safety factors, though you're right on the shackles - Typically 3x SWL is your failure point. The military often rates differently (and different militaries rate different to each other). They typically have a smaller safety factor.
I agree with @Wrencher93 , though. It's not going to be the SWL of the shackle that'll cause problems, it's the fact they can slide left and right in the mount point. If you were to load those up with a side load and the shackle didn't immediately move to the side it was being loaded from, but bound initially and then jumped sideways under load you risk bending your mounting points of tearing shackles out, even with a beefy mounting point like you have on your bumper. Impulsive loads suck and tend to break stuff. Just ask my axles =)
On the flip side of the coin, if you REALLY wanted those shackles as your normal recovery points you could weld another piece of steel to your bumper a couple inches outside the existing tabs and that would prevent lateral movement of the shackle pin. It would also double the amount of material in shear under an in-line load. Just a thought. I totally get what you're saying about just storing them there until needed and that's completely valid.
So not to be a debbie downer here, but in all my years of owning several military vehicles, I've never seen a shackle like that. I've attached a photo of both my deuce and 5 ton for your reference. I'd be cautious with that thing.
Cool looking but Yup, way to much space where bolted on, total side loading...needs to be flush for the rating...I personally would not use those unless you completely take up the gap...just friendly advice, not putting you down, just safety issue
Well my old man did 33 years in the army and he has a couple of the same shackles that he says came from a deuce and a half. That's where I first saw them. I used the part # on his shackles to find these on flea bay.
Here is a link to the shackles and the part # stamped on them...
MS70087-2 Shackle NSN 4030-00-678-8562 - https://aerospace-hardware.parts/chain-fittings/shackle/ms700872
Like I said, they will be used with tree savers and for other miscellaneous stuff. The big red Crosby shackles will be used on the bumpers.Cool looking but Yup, way to much space where bolted on, total side loading...needs to be flush for the rating...I personally would not use those unless you completely take up the gap...just friendly advice, not putting you down, just safety issue
I think we can probably move on from the shackle topic. I don't think anyone meant to drag it out or to be rude. Just typical mud members looking out for mud members 
