Got caught up on some long overdue preventative maintenance and upgrades! My wife must have been keeping track because according to her I spent 24 hours in the garage over the weekend. I wont argue! My list included:
-mounting a set of Maxxis Trepador Bias ply 37x17.13.5 tires on brand new Stealth Coast Custom F-5 Wheels (beadlock converted by OMF)
-adding dynabeads to all 5 tires (after mounting them which is cost me 1.5 hrs)
-replacing leaking radiator with new OEM unit, new T-stat and hoses too
-replacing steering pump and hoses, all OEM
-swapping out steering gear box with one converted to 105 series sector shaft
-oil change, air filter change, coolant flush and conversion over to green from red
Big thanks to 'Mud for all of the good "how to" articles on some of the above mentioned. Also to
@beno for supplying all of the parts, with the exception of the wheels/tires.
I did the tires first. My old 345 BFG KM2s were well worn and with limited tire choices on the stock 16" wheels, it was time for an upgrade. After blowing two beads on the Rubicon while running a modest 12 PSI, it was time for some beadlocks. I really liked the F-5 wheels from Stealth Coast Customs but they are not offered in a beadlock wheel so I ordered a set and sent them to OMF Performance for the conversion and I couldn't be happier. Awesome job, superb welds, and everything mounted up just fine. For the tires, I settled on some Maxxis Trepadors in a bias ply. The only time the KM2s failed me was on Dusy Ershim when a branch put a hole in my sidewall. With a beefy sidewall and bias ply (aired down to 8psi), I shouldn't have to worry anymore. Since no tire shop will mount a beadlock wheel, I had to go at it alone. After a few U-tube videos, I knew what to do. Basically you put the tire on the wheel and jump on it. Then mount the beadlock, torque incrementally to 10, 15, 25 ft lbs, seat the rear bead, retorque and you are good to go. With beadlocks, a proper trail repair (patch instead of plug) is very doable since you can easily remove the wheel from tire with minimal tools.
After mounting the wheels/tires, I took a quick drive and everything seemed just fine. They were louder than my KM2s but not terrible and vibration was minimal considering I did not have them balanced because tireshops wont balance beadlocks. However, I had heard about bias ply tires "flatspotting" overnight and took a drive the next day after they sat with a full 6000lbs on them. DO NOT PUT BIAS PLY TIRES ON A DAILY DRIVER. You will be shaken to death and loose all fillings in your teeth for the first 5 miles until they round out again. Since I could not get them balanced at a shop, I went the dynabead route. When mounting the tires, it is easy and takes all of 5 seconds to throw a pack of dynabeads in each wheel/tire combo, but after you mount them, you have to pull the valve stem and VERY slowly pour tens of thousands of dynabeads into each tire. This took me 1.5 hours for all 5 tires. Not fun. Dynabeads help but those first 5 miles are still pure misery.
My original radiator with 305k mi on it was leaking on top, probably because I sat on it while replacing my valvecover gasket a few years back. My power steering pump was also weeping and instead of a rebuild, I opted for a new one. It made sense to do both together, along with new hoses. I also had a steering gear box lying around with an upgraded sector shaft that was my "trail spare" for the last 2 years so it was time to install that too. Nothing terrible here, just messy draining fluids. Wear safety glasses! Lots of wobble joints and a few ratcheting wrenches helped. Mandatory are the 17mm flare wrench, impact wrench/leather glove and gear puller for the steering pump gear. I tried without and nicked a few gears, nothing a small file couldn't smooth.
After reassembling everything, I went to start the truck and "boom." Heard a sound like a blown speaker and nothing after. No power anywhere. This happened on Dusy a few years back and turned out to be a fusible link. Since I had to remove the battery, it made sense that I possibly damaged that part. Funny thing it that both times it tested "continuous" with a multimeter but once I installed the new one I was good to go. Had a slight leak on the return to the gear box but tightened that and all was well. Added fluids as needed and did a final 3 flushes with distilled water to rid all traces of Toyota Red. Drained, put in green from NAPA with a 50/50 mix and finally done! At least my wife can now park in the garage.
Here are a few photos along the way:
Old Parts
You can see the difference between the 80 series and 105 series sector shaft.
Wife and son saying hi. I cant wait until he is old enough to hand me wrenches or hold the light!
Thought it was a typo but it was on both gear boxes. I guess it D=T in Japanese.
All put back together. Garage is still a mess though.
Up close shot of the wheels and tires.
I should be ready to go come spring! At first I thought the candy blue beadlock was a little much, but they grew on me and after a few trips in the rocks, should look broken in.
