What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (2 Viewers)

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A whole lot of maintenance...
-Installed SPC UCA
-Timing belt/Water Pump
-F&R Diff fluid
-Tranny Fluid
-Tansfer Case fluid

Found out I need:
-Driver side LCA (Camber bolt frozen)
-Cam tab gussets
-New alignment
 
Oh? Do you know what vehicle that filter is spec'd for? I'd like to find the Wix equivalent at RockAuto.

@JLee
So, per NAPA... interestingly, the NAPA Gold 1516 oil filter is spec'd for a bunch of stuff: Ford/Lincoln/Mercury (81-09), Chrysler/Jeep/Mitsubishi (02-09), Mazda Trucks (94-10), Various Industrial Equipment and such. The NAPA dude cross-compared thread pitch, depth, gasket sizes, etc. and looked at the 1516 next to the Napa 1348 (which their system specs for the GX470) and noted the over 1" greater height in the 1516. He cross referenced the Toyota PN: 90915-yzzd3 (that's what came off my GX from a Lexus dealer service) and came up with the short 1348 filter which I'd purchased but later returned for the higher capacity 1516. There is also a NAPA Platinum 1516 with finer micron filtration and higher flow rate (8-12 GPM vs the 7-9 GPM of the gold 1516) and specs for full synthetic but will work with conventional oils as well. The platinum 1516 also increases the oil change interval from 5K, I think up to 10K miles....

So oddly I guess its the insider beta that the 1516 is a higher capacity and valid thread pitch, gasket size, etc. and therefore a higher capacity filter for the 2UZ-FE.
Also, per previous post, the WIX PN is 51516 (Wix 51516 & Napa 1516 Oil Filter). I assume there's a WIX premium as well...
 
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Removed the running boards today. Will be installing sliders this weekend hopefully. I removed the running boards and separated the top half and bottom half with the clips on the car. It was pretty easy once I knew how to do it.

Steps:
  1. Remove 10mm bolts where the brackets are attached to the running board. This will give some flex to do the next step.
  2. Unplug the harness in the middle for the lights. Unclip all the clips. From the bottom of the rig use 2 flat-head screwdrivers. These are the clips.
  3. Once the clips are removed due a rough cut on the front and rear of the running boards (will be cleaned up later).
  4. After that you should be able to drop the bottom half of the running boards. Pay attention to the wires for the lights.
  5. Now I just need to install the MT/OPOR sliders...
 
Went to Page Arizona's waterhole canyon and horseshoe bend
 
IMG_6378.webp
IMG_3771.webp
 
Removed the running boards today. Will be installing sliders this weekend hopefully. I removed the running boards and separated the top half and bottom half with the clips on the car. It was pretty easy once I knew how to do it.

Steps:
  1. Remove 10mm bolts where the brackets are attached to the running board. This will give some flex to do the next step.
  2. Unplug the harness in the middle for the lights. Unclip all the clips. From the bottom of the rig use 2 flat-head screwdrivers. These are the clips.
  3. Once the clips are removed due a rough cut on the front and rear of the running boards (will be cleaned up later).
  4. After that you should be able to drop the bottom half of the running boards. Pay attention to the wires for the lights.
  5. Now I just need to install the MT/OPOR sliders...
Good info...
 
Been awhile since I've been on mud. Seems like I've been missing out, thought this section was a little dead before. Finally made time to get a platform built using the 3rd row seat brackets. Steel frame with alumalite on top and then covered with "subwoofer enclosure" carpet. Works great for what I need.

 
Been awhile since I've been on mud. Seems like I've been missing out, thought this section was a little dead before. Finally made time to get a platform built using the 3rd row seat brackets. Steel frame with alumalite on top and then covered with "subwoofer enclosure" carpet. Works great for what I need.

That's pretty cool. How much does it weigh and did you make the frame yourself? Have pics of the build? Thanks!
 
Haven't weighted it yet. Not very heavy though, the top is alumalite so thats light. Just the steel frame. I can easily put it in/out myself, would think any average person can as well. Had a buddy with a fab shop make it for me here in LA. Attached is the diagram we used, went pretty much off of that. Diagram is from a GXOR member who I took the idea from. No pics of the frame by itself.

 
Started to dig into my new-to-me GX. Replaced some burnt turning indicator bulbs and hit some moving parts with lithium grease.

Upon further digging, my passenger seat has a radio antennae. Something like this:
1816547-26-extra-large.jpg


How the hell do I push it back???

Also, I'm missing some nipple looking thing on my rear spoiler. What does it do exactly?

GNeEz2al.jpg
 
rear entertainment and the rear pisser for your window.
 
Oh, I was kidding about the antenna (unless that really is the antenna). I just used a stock photo example. Mine is the passenger seat and it's like part of the slider rail (it seems like a plastic cap or alignment spacer) got stuck backing up the seat and won't unstick. I remember vaguely seeing this happen on other Toyota products.
 
Oh, I was kidding about the antenna (unless that really is the antenna). I just used a stock photo example. Mine is the passenger seat and it's like part of the slider rail (it seems like a plastic cap or alignment spacer) got stuck backing up the seat and won't unstick. I remember vaguely seeing this happen on other Toyota products.

Antenna - that made me laugh. I have the EXACT SAME PROBLEM as you showed in that borrowed pic above - I've never managed to get it pushed back in place so if you ever figure this out, please do share. I stopped paying attention to it probably 9 months ago....btw, welcome aboard!
 

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