What did you do on your 70 series today? (34 Viewers)

[Jawsh]

Picked up one of those oh-so-80s dash top altimeter + dual thermometer units. Less cool than the inclinometer. More useful. Surprisingly and conveniently, it's also 24V, same as my Cruiser.

Anyone done a retrofit of one? I was struggling to find the thermometers or relevant harness bits on part websites.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Picked up one of those oh-so-80s dash top altimeter + dual thermometer units. Less cool than the inclinometer. More useful. Surprisingly and conveniently, it's also 24V, same as my Cruiser.

Anyone done a retrofit of one? I was struggling to find the thermometers or relevant harness bits on part websites.
View attachment 3658367

I adapted one to mine. The wiring was beyond repair so I simply lit the altimeter (which I use a lot, living in the foothills) and put a water temp and voltmeter (12v for the house battery) in the thermometer space, after carefully making two new holes. I have pics if useful but if you are retrofitting the actual temp gauge then maybe not helpful?

 

[Jawsh]

I adapted one to mine. The wiring was beyond repair so I simply lit the altimeter (which I use a lot, living in the foothills) and put a water temp and voltmeter (12v for the house battery) in the thermometer space, after carefully making two new holes. I have pics if useful but if you are retrofitting the actual temp gauge then maybe not helpful?

Mine is in basically perfect condition, so would prefer to not do too much butchery. Cool use of yours though

 

[JuanJ]

Picked up one of those oh-so-80s dash top altimeter + dual thermometer units. Less cool than the inclinometer. More useful. Surprisingly and conveniently, it's also 24V, same as my Cruiser.

Anyone done a retrofit of one? I was struggling to find the thermometers or relevant harness bits on part websites.

Hello,

There are two temperature sensors. One is in the inside of the front bumper. The other is in the C pillar.

It is good to look for "cowl wire" or "cowl cable" in the parts catalogs. Sensors and their wiring are close to them.

Temperature sensors need cowl wires/cables to connect to the main harness, especially the front bumper sensor.





Juan

 

[Felde]

I fitted a new A/C condensor two weeks ago. Today I had a new hose made and the system charged. Blows nice and cool .
I need to drive frosted now all the time, to make it worth that money
Cheers Ralf

 

[JuanJ]

I fitted a new A/C condensor two weeks ago. Today I had a new hose made and the system charged. Blows nice and cool .
I need to drive frosted now all the time, to make it worth that money
Cheers Ralf

Hello,

AC is one of the systems that it is better to operate as much as possible. Otherwise, it fails over time, and repairs can be expensive.

I worked long enough in warm climates to regard AC as essential in a car. Whether it is cold relief on a hot summer day or dehumidified heating on a cold winter day, the ensuing comfort is always welcome.

Costs are at a distant second place when it comes to creature comforts.





Juan

 

[71harrison]

Drove to Salt Lake and back, made sure to swing by Cruiser Outfitters and the Museum of course. Good to see @cruiseroutfit and @cruiserdan!

Put the Vintage Air setup to the test on the way out and back, over 100 for hours on both ways. I've been chasing a leak for awhile that I finally think I solved, no fault of the components, just my bad crimp job on the lines. Would recommend to anyone without AC (or heat I guess) as a full replacement option, especially if your existing parts aren't in great shape as its the whole core and everything (connects to vents not an under dash one just to be clear).

AC was super cold but really need to invest in better tint and some more insulation! Instead dealt with fuel boiling a TON, crazy tank pressure when fully sealed it, charcoal canister left the building at some point (ty Dan for finding the diagrams!), need to get that figured out. Not totally sure other than getting the venting fixed? Maybe need to add some heat shields, as when I left the cap loose it ran MUCH better but was losing fuel at an alarming rate. I dont plan to drive in that heat too often but still, anyone else figured this out?

Other than that, truck ran beautifully. Oh and full believer in the Scheelman hype now, 24+ hours driving in past week and so comfortable, seriously impressed.

 

[prwillard2]

Drove to Salt Lake and back, made sure to swing by Cruiser Outfitters and the Museum of course. Good to see @cruiseroutfit and @cruiserdan!

Put the Vintage Air setup to the test on the way out and back, over 100 for hours on both ways. I've been chasing a leak for awhile that I finally think I solved, no fault of the components, just my bad crimp job on the lines. Would recommend to anyone without AC (or heat I guess) as a full replacement option, especially if your existing parts aren't in great shape as its the whole core and everything (connects to vents not an under dash one just to be clear).

AC was super cold but really need to invest in better tint and some more insulation! Instead dealt with fuel boiling a TON, crazy tank pressure when fully sealed it, charcoal canister left the building at some point (ty Dan for finding the diagrams!), need to get that figured out. Not totally sure other than getting the venting fixed? Maybe need to add some heat shields, as when I left the cap loose it ran MUCH better but was losing fuel at an alarming rate. I dont plan to drive in that heat too often but still, anyone else figured this out?

Other than that, truck ran beautifully. Oh and full believer in the Scheelman hype now, 24+ hours driving in past week and so comfortable, seriously impressed.

View attachment 3659559View attachment 3659560View attachment 3659561View attachment 3659562

Can you share you canister diagrams?

I'm moving to 29 Palms and my fuel isn't venting right either on the original Omani canister.

 

[RHINO]

Can you share you canister diagrams?

x2 please, i have the FSM but its pretty vague.

 

[LJRay]

...anyone installed a 2-1/2 inch exhaust recently? I'm price checking for a LJ73, all the way from turbo to tailpipe...

 

[71harrison]

Can you share you canister diagrams?

Yup here you go!
toyodiy or if no diagrams for you megazip

I was confused for so long as I have the 77750C line then nothing

 

[jblueridge]

AC is one of the systems that it is better to operate as much as possible. Otherwise, it fails over time, and repairs can be expensive.

I try to remember to run mine now and again in winter.
Need to keep the R12 freon inside the pipes, not leaking out of perished o-rings.

 

[LDRF]

I have not done anything since mid April except to place a big order with Megazip. A bunch in miscellaneous parts, everything for timing belt and water pump, and seals for my FRP top.

My FRP top has was painted silver snd clear coated at some time. I expect it was all done when painted blue and turned into Good Times. Its finish is in bad shape, peeling in spots, especially in the ridge corners. In some areas, the clear coat, silver, and gel coat have been compromised. As well, it’s clearly gone through some low clearance areas as the top has some gouges that go through the gel coat to the fibreglass. All in all, not too bad as no gouges have compromised the glass fibres.

I’ve been reading the interweb to find info on paint removal. I decided to try scraping it off with a razor blade. I had mixed results. In certain areas, it came off quite well, others areas, not. This was about 2 to 3 hours worth of scraping.

I think I’ll try a random orbital sander as I used sandpaper in spots and it removed both the clear and silver quite well. I’ll just need to be careful to not remove too much of the gelcoat. I figure this will be better then chemical stripping and there is a lot of controversy whether chemical stripping is good or bad. Most opinion is it’s bad, as it makes it difficult for paint and gelcoat to stick, in the long run.

The sides and Land Cruiser lettering will be a pain in the ass. I’m going to wait until the seals arrive and then I’ll take off the top and remove the windows to make the stripping easier. I’m going to find someone local to redo the gelcoat. I’ll probably leave it white, although I like the silver.

 

[prwillard2]

I have not done anything since mid April except to place a big order with Megazip. A bunch in miscellaneous parts, everything for timing belt and water pump, and seals for my FRP top.

My FRP top has was painted silver snd clear coated at some time. I expect it was all done when painted blue and turned into Good Times. Its finish is in bad shape, peeling in spots, especially in the ridge corners. In some areas, the clear coat, silver, and gel coat have been compromised. As well, it’s clearly gone through some low clearance areas as the top has some gouges that go through the gel coat to the fibreglass. All in all, not too bad as no gouges have compromised the glass fibres.

View attachment 3660941

I’ve been reading the interweb to find info on paint removal. I decided to try scraping it off with a razor blade. I had mixed results. In certain areas, it came off quite well, others areas, not. This was about 2 to 3 hours worth of scraping.
View attachment 3660948
I think I’ll try a random orbital sander as I used sandpaper in spots and it removed both the clear and silver quite well. I’ll just need to be careful to not remove too much of the gelcoat. I figure this will be better then chemical stripping and there is a lot of controversy whether chemical stripping is good or bad. Most opinion is it’s bad, as it makes it difficult for paint and gelcoat to stick, in the long run.

The sides and Land Cruiser lettering will be a pain in the ass. I’m going to wait until the seals arrive and then I’ll take off the top and remove the windows to make the stripping easier. I’m going to find someone local to redo the gelcoat. I’ll probably leave it white, although I like the silver.

Make sure to wear a respirator when sanding. Don't want fiberglass dust in your lungs. Eyes either, so maybe goggles too.

 

[Bazz]

I have not done anything since mid April except to place a big order with Megazip. A bunch in miscellaneous parts, everything for timing belt and water pump, and seals for my FRP top.

My FRP top has was painted silver snd clear coated at some time. I expect it was all done when painted blue and turned into Good Times. Its finish is in bad shape, peeling in spots, especially in the ridge corners. In some areas, the clear coat, silver, and gel coat have been compromised. As well, it’s clearly gone through some low clearance areas as the top has some gouges that go through the gel coat to the fibreglass. All in all, not too bad as no gouges have compromised the glass fibres.

View attachment 3660941

I’ve been reading the interweb to find info on paint removal. I decided to try scraping it off with a razor blade. I had mixed results. In certain areas, it came off quite well, others areas, not. This was about 2 to 3 hours worth of scraping.
View attachment 3660948
I think I’ll try a random orbital sander as I used sandpaper in spots and it removed both the clear and silver quite well. I’ll just need to be careful to not remove too much of the gelcoat. I figure this will be better then chemical stripping and there is a lot of controversy whether chemical stripping is good or bad. Most opinion is it’s bad, as it makes it difficult for paint and gelcoat to stick, in the long run.

The sides and Land Cruiser lettering will be a pain in the ass. I’m going to wait until the seals arrive and then I’ll take off the top and remove the windows to make the stripping easier. I’m going to find someone local to redo the gelcoat. I’ll probably leave it white, although I like the silver.

Are you gonna re-apply the texture? I have some repairs to do and plan to repaint the whole thing, but curious what texture you use if you found/find a good match.

 

[LDRF]

The silver paint def has a texture to it. I’ve never seen another FRP so I don’t know what a stock one looks like, but I’d expect it to be smooth???

My goal is to stop the deterioration; get the top in good enough shape that it does not continue to deteriorate. Currently, underneath where the paint has been compromised, the gelcoat is either very thin or broken down/micro cracked. I’m going to fix the damage and see what I can do to get the gelcoat back in decent shape. I suspect if I repaint it, it will be as smooth as the gelcoat.

 

[Bazz]

The silver paint def has a texture to it. I’ve never seen another FRP so I don’t know what a stock one looks like, but I’d expect it to be smooth???

My goal is to stop the deterioration; get the top in good enough shape that it does not continue to deteriorate. Currently, underneath where the paint has been compromised, the gelcoat is either very thin or broken down/micro cracked. I’m going to fix the damage and see what I can do to get the gelcoat back in decent shape. I suspect if I repaint it, it will be as smooth as the gelcoat.

Oh, I’m not sure about the silver ones, but the white (at leas the two I’ve had) have a texture almost like a fine spray wall texture to them. I’m sure when many repaint them they probably sand this down and don’t bother with trying to recreate it.

 

[jblueridge]

Mine is silver, no texture.
I plan to do a little rehab on it and paint it white.
If there was a boat repair place around here I would try that.

 

[76FJ40]

The FRP on my 74 is silver and textured like @Bazz said above.

 

[jblueridge]

Applied a coat of Master Series Silver to rear diff and some other places.
Topped it with some POR-15 that has been laying around too long.

Is there such a thing as a 2" paint roller cover that won't dissolve or fall apart from urethane coatings?
4 inch is too wide for stuff like this.