What did you do on your 70 series today? (26 Viewers)

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Anyone know of a source for stainless brake lines for a 75 Troopy? Trying to replace all of the rubber lines w stainless. No luck w Cruiser Outfitters.

I'm not aware of any 4-pc stainless line kits for the troopy. I'm not personally a fan of the stainless over a Japanese rubber. Curious what makes you want the stainless.
 
I just thought stainless lines would be better long term performers plus I like the firmer feel. But if y'all do have the rubber and recommend those, I'm all ears.
 
Oh. Yeah. Filled the brackets on both rigs in passenger footwell finally. Bugged me that they were unused. JDM led flares. Thanks @Cruiser Cult

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I just thought stainless lines would be better long term performers plus I like the firmer feel. But if y'all do have the rubber and recommend those, I'm all ears.

I've driven plenty of Land Cruisers with each (we do offer stainless kits for many of the more common US options) and I personally can't feel a difference. For most the choice is due to cost, often the stainless combo kits are less than the Japanese rubber. We definitely have all of the lines in Japanese rubber. Please shoot our parts team your frame number and full model code, there are variants based on month/year and market.

 
The stainless lines may not be DOT approved. That may not matter to some but it does matter to me.
 
I'm not aware of any 4-pc stainless line kits for the troopy. I'm not personally a fan of the stainless over a Japanese rubber. Curious what makes you want the stainless.
I have 1989 4 runner stainless lines that will fit, and are longer which would work if lifted truck crazy... I haven't put them on yet but thread's are same.
 
I have 1989 4 runner stainless lines that will fit, and are longer which would work if lifted truck crazy... I haven't put them on yet but thread's are same.

Nearly all Land Cruisers use 10x1.0mm fittings, length becomes the key. The short ones from the scle housing to the knuckle don't benefit at all from length in fact extra length can make them awkward/vulnerable. The frame to axle lines are easily sourced in stainless generic lengths
 
Nearly all Land Cruisers use 10x1.0mm fittings, length becomes the key. The short ones from the scle housing to the knuckle don't benefit at all from length in fact extra length can make them awkward/vulnerable. The frame to axle lines are easily sourced in stainless generic lengths
If you bleed the brakes and have the fluid the length won't matter (not arguing just my opinion) I have swapped lines from a pick up to a 4 runner before no probs. The brake booster is the same. Anyway good luck just what I've done and I'll report how my front SD braided lines do
 
Drove the hzj77 110km north to look at a car for my wife. Her uzj100 is great and isn't going anywhere but fuel efficient is never something it's been accused of.

Ol'Betsy approved and so this morning it was delivered and has taken up residence.
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It's the last of the 3rd gens. So no CVT. Just good old 4EAT. It's a 2013 and in nice shape, with only 120,000 kms.
 
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Hello,

A first for me.

I was used to fuel injection, I still am.

I cleaned the carburetor of my 73 Series. It is six months since maintenance, and I thought it was time.

Remove the admission duct, apply cleaner, install the duct. Start the engine, allow the cleaner and deposits to get out.

An interesting experience. Now I have to get some gasoline.





Juan
 
Kinda funny ….. While our club members were inside the showroom of Thomasville Toyota this weekend admiring the newest Land Cruiser, the bulk of their employees were outside checking out the 70 Series (we had 7 there).
😊
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I just thought stainless lines would be better long term performers plus I like the firmer feel. But if y'all do have the rubber and recommend those, I'm all ears.
Something to consider, if stainless lines are not externally lined it leaves them vulnerable to grit in an off road application. The grit gets between the stainless outer lining and inner tubing and acts as an abrasive, this is not ideal for an area where there is constant movement.

Also it is easy to see when rubber lines need to be replaced as they become dry rotted with age. With stainless, this is not apparent so you must either replace periodically or wait until failure.
 
Question: Does a radiator protector make any sense?
My radiator was nicely covered & protected by the A/C condensor sitting in front of it. Although still being the 1985 original, my radiator still looks nice, except for one spot where there was the hose connected to the condensor, thus no cover.
I need to replace the condensor. The new one is smaller and will leave more of the radiator exposed.
Now I'm wondering if it would be a smart idea to fab some sort of protector (eg from steel mesh) to protect the uncovered area of the radiator. 🤔
Smart or overthought?
Cheers Ralf
 
Question: Does a radiator protector make any sense?
My radiator was nicely covered & protected by the A/C condensor sitting in front of it. Although still being the 1985 original, my radiator still looks nice, except for one spot where there was the hose connected to the condensor, thus no cover.
I need to replace the condensor. The new one is smaller and will leave more of the radiator exposed.
Now I'm wondering if it would be a smart idea to fab some sort of protector (eg from steel mesh) to protect the uncovered area of the radiator. 🤔
Smart or overthought?
Cheers Ralf
Hello,

It is overthought.

I would worry if the radiator is exposed below the front grill, a spot usually covered by the skid plate.

Some new parts are smaller than older (usually discontinued) ones. They do their job and use less space.

On the other hand, a little more radiator area exposed means a tad more heat exchange. Any engine can use a tad more cooling, especially diesel ones.





Juan
 
Question: Does a radiator protector make any sense?
My radiator was nicely covered & protected by the A/C condensor sitting in front of it. Although still being the 1985 original, my radiator still looks nice, except for one spot where there was the hose connected to the condensor, thus no cover.
I need to replace the condensor. The new one is smaller and will leave more of the radiator exposed.
Now I'm wondering if it would be a smart idea to fab some sort of protector (eg from steel mesh) to protect the uncovered area of the radiator. 🤔
Smart or overthought?
Cheers Ralf
No radiator guards for these guys, and they bet their lives on those jeeps. They also intended to attack the enemy with vehicle mounted MG's blasting away while surrounded with fuel cans full of gasoline strapped on. Balsy/crazy? No doubt but alsoextraordinary:
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