What did you do on your 70 series today? (16 Viewers)

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Oil and filter change on KZJ78 and also learned if you write the mileage upside and parallel to the text printed on the filter it is legible when installed, but only if you have good hand writing...

Lastly, 09228-10002 is the part number for the oil filter wrench if you are inclined to get your Toyota nerd on.
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Purchased new alt belts, EGR block off with EGT probe. new AC belt. Oil filter x3, fuel filter x3. 71C thermostat, Block heater, Hood Support Rod clamp, Rear roof moulding.

Yesterday the truck was Krowned.
 
Today I attempted to adjust the timing on my 3F, there was some difficulty getting a good signal for my timing light (may be a sensitivity issue?)
I then inspected the distributor and really have no idea what Im looking at. It appears to be some sort of optical sensor and slotted wheel?
I am not sure but is this supposed to look like this? The smurf jizz may need to go aswell.

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I don’t know if that stuff is a new age upgrade, but it looks like an optical replacement for old school points. That bolt adjusts the timing I’ll bet.
 
I'm working my way through the quirkiness of my new-to-me FZJ75 GCC pickup. Figured out why it cold started like crap: there was a short vaccum line not even connected on one side. And the idle seemed to have been set super duper low. Seems to be working better now.

Might be a dumb question, but is there some trick to selecting L4? I am lifting like I'm trying to pull excalibur out of a rock and nothing is happening. I can't move the selector beyond H4.

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I'm working my way through the quirkiness of my new-to-me FZJ75 GCC pickup. Figured out why it cold started like crap: there was a short vaccum line not even connected on one side. And the idle seemed to have been set super duper low. Seems to be working better now.

Might be a dumb question, but is there some trick to selecting L4? I am lifting like I'm trying to pull excalibur out of a rock and nothing is happening. I can't move the selector beyond H4.

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The “lifting” process is normally quite easy. (Doesn’t normally require any of that Knights Of The Round Table stuff.) 😊
 
I'm working my way through the quirkiness of my new-to-me FZJ75 GCC pickup. Figured out why it cold started like crap: there was a short vaccum line not even connected on one side. And the idle seemed to have been set super duper low. Seems to be working better now.

Might be a dumb question, but is there some trick to selecting L4? I am lifting like I'm trying to pull excalibur out of a rock and nothing is happening. I can't move the selector beyond H4.

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look underneath and take a picture (s). try pulling back and then sliding to the right. I think that is the wrong knob. that's if you have a split case transfercase
 
look underneath and take a picture (s). try pulling back and then sliding to the right. I think that is the wrong knob. that's if you have a split case transfercase

No luck in any direction. The manual says to lift as well.

Are these the pictures you're looking for?

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Is that a 1999+ transfer case? I’m a bit fuzzy on 70-series t-case differences throughout the years.
 
look underneath and take a picture (s). try pulling back and then sliding to the right. I think that is the wrong knob. that's if you have a split case transfercase

FZJ75’s do **not** have split cases. They have 80 series style cases. HF family cases.

Anything over roughly 200hp gets the 80 case.

In this case, it’s an HF1A part time xfer.
 
That clears up a point of confusion I've had for a while, having seen photos of FZJ7x's transfer cases I always thought they looked like 80-series cases but wasn't sure.
 
Finished up a regear, and added a TJM pro locker to the front. But instead of taking the easy and expensive route, I bought an 8.2” locker on clearance from just differentials, welded, drilled, and counter bored it so it works in my 8” HP 🤣. Works perfect as was far cheaper than anything else! And now I know the only carrier difference is 10 bolt vs 12 bolt ring!

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Changed a wheel bearing that was getting rather crunchy. The job was far, far easier the second time - I credit this to knowing how to do it, and because I'd been in that side 6 months before, everything was quite easy to break loose.

...and more rust work. My MIG welder is currently unavailable to me, so I succumbed once more and paid a guy to do it. Hopefully this doesn't become habit!

I have no doubt I'll need to get into the left rear before too long. If anyone has done the edge of the wheel arches before, would welcome any advice for a novice panelbeater!

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I'm working my way through the quirkiness of my new-to-me FZJ75 GCC pickup. Figured out why it cold started like crap: there was a short vaccum line not even connected on one side. And the idle seemed to have been set super duper low. Seems to be working better now.

Might be a dumb question, but is there some trick to selecting L4? I am lifting like I'm trying to pull excalibur out of a rock and nothing is happening. I can't move the selector beyond H4.

View attachment 3592050

Hello,

I am late to the party.

Normally, you just depress the clutch pedal, shift to H4 then pull gently. A click tells you that you are in N. Keep the pull and move the lever, gently. Another click confirms you are in L4.

It is safe to say that the PO seldom, if ever, drove in 4WD. The PO did not clean the drive train either.

If the lever is hard to move, then the links need lubrication. Your photos show dirt on them. Brush it away, apply some WD-40 and let it penetrate for a while. Then try again.

Once the lever shifts properly, apply more lubricant on the links.

Hope this helps.





Juan
 
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