What did you do on your 70 series today? (17 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Got tired of being an FST wanna be so decided to put a lid on it
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Looks great!
I regularly talk about things in feet or inches at work, and then have to correct myself to mm; the engineers I work with are often from outside of Australia, and even the Aussies look at me a bit squint until I give them it in mm.
Bugs me dealing with the sales team when they give me something in cm's though... and having just spent a day converting a spec sheet from an American supplier (Imperial) to SI units (cm) where they flicked between 1/8" (3 d.p.) and a rounded number to 2 d.p. I'll be glad when they realise the scientific industry is generally metric...
being in canada we work in both at the same time regularly as the country is metric but all building materials and specs are are feet and inches, the secret is to use mm or meters only for metric, and 305mm -> 12" exactly, and if you have inches just convert them into percentages of a foot, ie 12.5' 12.75' etc. Its really quite easy and there are advantages of using both. Surveyors use this trick with feet and inches as well (tenths of a foot or percentages of a foot)
@Tigris just did a fabulous refresh on a set of factory side steps.
went with oem and they're working fine.
Thanks @AirheadNut
@barrett1
Very doable. I would recommend taking the running boards apart (drilling out the aluminum rivets that holds the bracket to the board itself, and all the plastic caps) this way you can really get the aluminum boards cleaned. Start with any alkaline degreaser and a stiff brush (Goof-Off or Goo-Gone if you have any over-spray or tar) then you can just wet sand the boards with 400 grit and go up to like 1500 grit followed by a green scotch pad. This will delete all the nicks, scuffs, scratches and get everything nice and uniform for the next step.
Go online or Napa and grab some aluminum brightner (phosphoric acid works even better and is cheaper) and use a stiff plastic brush to rub the product in. The boards will foam up as the acid etches the aluminum to a brilliant uniform matt finish with just the right amount of shine (just like OEM when new). Rinse with fresh water and let dry vertically.
Ideally, you would want to protect this finish from tarnish (the acid will leave the boards in an active etched state, which will accelerate oxidation, with time) so, get a can of a product called "Alumaclear" and spray it per the instructions. This is a heavy duty clear coat specifically formulated for aluminum. Handy to have for other future restoration projects on the truck.
Some bad pictures
Good luck!!
They met. Finally. It’s taken a long time.
Working with my buddy @WandatheTroopy to replace the suspension on our Troopy this weekend. I’ll post more pics when we are done. Ran into a situation in the back that has me scratching my head. The shocks are 15+ years old. The springs (which were basically horizontal) actually turned out to be a set of OME cs800r, so heavy load option for a 75, but a PO had taken 5 leafs off of each side.
just scratching my head as to what would lead to that many leafs being removed. The new one is a medium load. So one less leaf than what the old one would have been by design.
just scratching my head as to what would lead to that many leafs being removed. The new one is a medium load. So one less leaf than what the old one would have been by design.
What did I do to my BJ73 today...
1st: Drove it. Had the first sun
for quite some time today.
Then: Winter maintenance...
Checked the axle breathers and the LSPV. Probably my new no-1 on the list of 'Most fiddly things to do on an LC': Getting that rubber boot and the clamp back in place, with the LSPV in place and no lift.
What do you notice (again) once darkness sets in early in winter?: The dashlights that went out... Plan to tackle that next.
- I'm pretty sure its 3W clear T10 glassocket bulbs, with those green rubber condoms on the bulb. They usually break once you try peeling it off the old bulb. Can't get green bulbs in 3W, though.
--- Does anybody happen to know the partnumber of these rubber condom thingies or a source? (Don't even know the correct term of those to google for)
EDIT And can anybody explain in a bit of detail how to detach the speedo cable from the meter? I know I need to undo the fasteners of the cable in the engine bay to allow some slack. But how to actually detach it? Press in some clips? Twist? A pick of how the connector looks would help a lot. I appreciate any hint.
Next job is checking the rear drumbrakes and address the seized parking brake. But need to get some parts for that first.
Cheers Ralf
1st: Drove it. Had the first sun
for quite some time today.Then: Winter maintenance...
Checked the axle breathers and the LSPV. Probably my new no-1 on the list of 'Most fiddly things to do on an LC': Getting that rubber boot and the clamp back in place, with the LSPV in place and no lift.
What do you notice (again) once darkness sets in early in winter?: The dashlights that went out... Plan to tackle that next.
- I'm pretty sure its 3W clear T10 glassocket bulbs, with those green rubber condoms on the bulb. They usually break once you try peeling it off the old bulb. Can't get green bulbs in 3W, though.
--- Does anybody happen to know the partnumber of these rubber condom thingies or a source? (Don't even know the correct term of those to google for)
EDIT And can anybody explain in a bit of detail how to detach the speedo cable from the meter? I know I need to undo the fasteners of the cable in the engine bay to allow some slack. But how to actually detach it? Press in some clips? Twist? A pick of how the connector looks would help a lot. I appreciate any hint.
Next job is checking the rear drumbrakes and address the seized parking brake. But need to get some parts for that first.
Cheers Ralf
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Think this is the green condom part number 90339-04014 Partsouq is out of stock, but if you google it, it comes up elsewhere. I've got a bulb out too (24v), and need the green-sleeve as well.
24v Bulb part Numbers
Many of the diesels, especially JDMs, run on a 24v electrical system. Sometimes it's easier to find replacement 24v bulbs if you already have the part number in hand. With that thought in mind, post up any part numbers that you use, specifying its application, in this thread. This post...
forum.ih8mud.com
If the BJ73 speedometer cable is anything like the LJ78 one, there should be a single tab on the side of the connector that you squeeze to release it from the back on the instrument cluster. There are a couple of photos in this thread that might help: 70 series dash removal - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/70-series-dash-removal.1122009/#post-13687788What did I do to my BJ73 today...
1st: Drove it. Had the first sun
Then: Winter maintenance...
Checked the axle breathers and the LSPV. Probably my new no-1 on the list of 'Most fiddly things to do on an LC': Getting that rubber boot and the clamp back in place, with the LSPV in place and no lift.
What do you notice (again) once darkness sets in early in winter?: The dashlights that went out... Plan to tackle that next.
- I'm pretty sure its 3W clear T10 glassocket bulbs, with those green rubber condoms on the bulb. They usually break once you try peeling it off the old bulb. Can't get green bulbs in 3W, though.
--- Does anybody happen to know the partnumber of these rubber condom thingies or a source? (Don't even know the correct term of those to google for)
EDIT And can anybody explain in a bit of detail how to detach the speedo cable from the meter? I know I need to undo the fasteners of the cable in the engine bay to allow some slack. But how to actually detach it? Press in some clips? Twist? A pick of how the connector looks would help a lot. I appreciate any hint.
Next job is checking the rear drumbrakes and address the seized parking brake. But need to get some parts for that first.
Cheers Ralf
P.O. may not have been carrying that much extra gear and was just trying to smooth out the ride a bit. I've got the heavier OME springs on mine and when it's empty, it bounces quite a bit.
Yes, you un-clip the cable from it's brackets coming from the t-case to get some slack in it, undo all the screws (4) that secure the cluster to the dash and push the cable into the firewall grommet from the engine bay side into the interior, and this will give you enough room to reach your hand behind the cluster and undo the clip Airhead described. I've had mine out 3 times this week...once you figure it out, it takes about 5 minutes.
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Thank you for the advice and the part no, @Owyhee Jackass , @AirheadNut. This community is just amazing.
Going to order my Christmas present from amayama now: All rubber seals, weatherstrip etc for the hardtop and the doors (with detachable windowframes), as far and as long as available, still. Partsouq already doesn't have most of those any more. Amayama at least says available, except for 6788460020 WEATHERSTRIP, BACK DOOR, LOWER LH (that one apparently is made from unoptainium, couldn't find any source yet).
Will also get some new blinker lenses, brake and parking brake parts, the oil hoses to the vakuum pump (with gaskets; mine still has the originals on it. Better replace those before they blow off)
- I constantly wonder what other rare parts I should stock, befor they become unavailable.
Budget is limited, though.
Will stock a diaphragm for the IP and a pair of those hard brakelines on the calipers for now. Any other suggestions?
Cheers Ralf
Going to order my Christmas present from amayama now: All rubber seals, weatherstrip etc for the hardtop and the doors (with detachable windowframes), as far and as long as available, still. Partsouq already doesn't have most of those any more. Amayama at least says available, except for 6788460020 WEATHERSTRIP, BACK DOOR, LOWER LH (that one apparently is made from unoptainium, couldn't find any source yet).
Will also get some new blinker lenses, brake and parking brake parts, the oil hoses to the vakuum pump (with gaskets; mine still has the originals on it. Better replace those before they blow off)
- I constantly wonder what other rare parts I should stock, befor they become unavailable.
Budget is limited, though.Will stock a diaphragm for the IP and a pair of those hard brakelines on the calipers for now. Any other suggestions?
Cheers Ralf
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i ordered a grip of sleeves from these guys, both bulb sizes and they work great, no compalaintsThink this is the green condom part number 90339-04014 Partsouq is out of stock, but if you google it, it comes up elsewhere. I've got a bulb out too (24v), and need the green-sleeve as well.
24v Bulb part Numbers
Many of the diesels, especially JDMs, run on a 24v electrical system. Sometimes it's easier to find replacement 24v bulbs if you already have the part number in hand. With that thought in mind, post up any part numbers that you use, specifying its application, in this thread. This post...
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Does the speedometer cable run up the outside of the firewall on pre 1990 models? On my ‘91 it enters the cabin on top of the transmission tunnel and runs up the inside of the firewall behind the dash.
