They are so much comfier than the factory seats too, granted the drivers side one had seen better days
What did you do on your 70 series today? (19 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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FJBen
SILVER Star
My buddy has those in his 40. I really want to upgrade to those…someday
I really like that gray pattern.
I love the houndstooth version but not sure it would match good.
ATL Cruiser
GOLD Star
I took on a quick project the other night. Or rather, what I thought would be a quick project. New running boards on both sides.
The running boards are held on by 10 x 6mm bolts. The passenger side came off fantastic. Driver side, not so much. Super rusty. Used heat and penetrant, but half still broke off. Ended up drilling and tapping them. Some of them I needed to upsize and tap to 8mm, which held nicely.
The running boards are held on by 10 x 6mm bolts. The passenger side came off fantastic. Driver side, not so much. Super rusty. Used heat and penetrant, but half still broke off. Ended up drilling and tapping them. Some of them I needed to upsize and tap to 8mm, which held nicely.
Installed a little something in my ARB. Comeup DV-9 24v. I had my heart set on an 8274, but came across a deal on the Comeup Reviews were great and talking to a few people I decided to go for it. It hides itself well down behind the lights too (no worries about airflow). I have some Customsplice 3/8 rope that will go on it this weekend.
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I was the only 70 Series in the mater patch today. 
It’s fun listening to telemarketers trying to pronounce the name of our little community.
Wait, what are you driving @Gun Runner 5 ? Hood looks black…
Just an illusion.
Just an illusion.
What part is an illusion?
What are you driving? Did you paint the hood of your Ute?It’s fun listening to telemarketers trying to pronounce the name of our little community.
ATL Cruiser
GOLD Star
Installed a new speedometer cable on the HZJ77. My goal was to get the speedo needle to stop jumping all over the place. Mission successful.
I think the old cable stretches out, and then it binds inside the cable guide, like a torsion spring.
Super easy job. The only difficult part was installing the cable grommet blind underneath the carpet.
I think the old cable stretches out, and then it binds inside the cable guide, like a torsion spring.
Super easy job. The only difficult part was installing the cable grommet blind underneath the carpet.
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Todays completion list:
Fixed the stereo tuner
Drilled out broken skid plate bolts and re mounted it
Adjusted the lspv for the lift
Installed the new injection pump diaphragm with mercedes spring ( worst job yet
...) should have done this when the head was off
found the air seep in the fuel lined and tightened that up
vacuumed and wiped the dirt off it !
feels good to win
Fixed the stereo tuner
Drilled out broken skid plate bolts and re mounted it
Adjusted the lspv for the lift
Installed the new injection pump diaphragm with mercedes spring ( worst job yet
...) should have done this when the head was offfound the air seep in the fuel lined and tightened that up
vacuumed and wiped the dirt off it !
feels good to win
ATL Cruiser
GOLD Star
@bj70bc now you've got me thinking about LSPV's.Todays completion list:
Fixed the stereo tuner
Drilled out broken skid plate bolts and re mounted it
Adjusted the lspv for the lift
Installed the new injection pump diaphragm with mercedes spring ( worst job yet
found the air seep in the fuel lined and tightened that up
vacuumed and wiped the dirt off it !
feels good to win
I've never been happy with the brakes on the 77. They seem weak. I just figured it was a heavy truck and a weak booster, not realizing that there was a proportioning valve back there that changes the rear brake pressure based on lift height.
I'm curious which method you used to set yours. The FSM is talking about doing it with two different pressure gages.
as for my lspv...
i just raised my mounting point at the axle by the amount of lift i put in,... about 2.25"
that's assuming it was working properly in first place though.....
i should at least bleed it for fun though i guess
brake lines,
yes.... next on the list is the t100 brake line sitting on the bench, damn frame side of the old one wont let go yet...I should go soak it in PB right now
i just raised my mounting point at the axle by the amount of lift i put in,... about 2.25"
that's assuming it was working properly in first place though.....
i should at least bleed it for fun though i guess
brake lines,
yes.... next on the list is the t100 brake line sitting on the bench, damn frame side of the old one wont let go yet...I should go soak it in PB right now
ATL Cruiser
GOLD Star
I might just delete the LSPV altogether and also install an 80-series booster.
I've never messed with proportioning valves much. They are all built into the master cylinder on newer cars.
I've never messed with proportioning valves much. They are all built into the master cylinder on newer cars.
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Just different date codes I belive.
Hi
You 1st need to understand the principle:
- On normal load, in stationary or slow move,, the LSPV is fully open. Brake force distribution to front and rear is max. Distribution ratio is defined by the dimensions of the components, in particular the dimensions of the brake cylinders master and slave.
- When braking at higher speed, the rear lifts, causing less pressure on the rear axle, causing the brakes to lock sooner. The front sinks in, as it takes more load. Once the rear brakes lock, the vehicle's back becomes unstable and off you fly. That's what the LSPV prevents:
When the rear comes up, the LSPV redirects some of the brake force from the back to the front (where now the load is) and thus maintains stable track and efficient braking.
Note: Rear up = LSP leaver down means less brake in the rear. Means: Lifted truck = leaver down = poor brake in the rear.
The adjuster is on the axle mount. We are talking half-turns on the adjusting nut here.
I doubt you can measure your actual lift that accurately and raise the adjuster that accurately.
Modern cars have an electronic brake adjustment computing, which works in conjunction with the ABS. On mechanical vehicles there is a mechsnicsl LSPV, still. My opinion.
To adjust the LSPV: I did it this way (with a buddy to observe from outside).
- Clean it and make sure the sensing pin can be depressed quite easy. Often LSOVs are seized up.
- Put normal load in your truck: Tank half full, all gear in you normally carry.
Run it on tarmac, 30km/h, and brake..
1. Hard, but without locking the brakes. If your vehicle looses track, you have uneven braking. Adjust this first.
2. as hard as you would / can on an emergency until all brakes lock. Have the buddy observe from the side: The front brake must lock up first, the rear brake must lock up only slightly later. Adjust the LSPV leaver respectively: Down to axle: later / up to body: earlier.
It will take a few attempts. And yes: half a turn on the adjusting nut makes a difference.
3. Repeat on loose ground, e.g. a forest road (not completely loose gravel). You will notice the rear brake to lock a bit to early again, so adjust a bit again.
Done.
For the fun of it:
Here is a series of 3 videos that was produced for the German Buschtaxitreffen. A fellow cruiserhead and engineer, with a high sense in science, explained all the physics and demonstrated the adjustment according to the manual...
(Parts 2 & 3 in his channel) sorry German.
And an official Toyota training video
The official process is ridiculous complex, requiring scales an pressure gauges nobody has.
You 1st need to understand the principle:
- On normal load, in stationary or slow move,, the LSPV is fully open. Brake force distribution to front and rear is max. Distribution ratio is defined by the dimensions of the components, in particular the dimensions of the brake cylinders master and slave.
- When braking at higher speed, the rear lifts, causing less pressure on the rear axle, causing the brakes to lock sooner. The front sinks in, as it takes more load. Once the rear brakes lock, the vehicle's back becomes unstable and off you fly. That's what the LSPV prevents:
When the rear comes up, the LSPV redirects some of the brake force from the back to the front (where now the load is) and thus maintains stable track and efficient braking.
Note: Rear up = LSP leaver down means less brake in the rear. Means: Lifted truck = leaver down = poor brake in the rear.
I doubt this is sufficient. The LSPV leaver is very long, but the LSPV itself is very sensitive. 1mm on the LSPV sensing pin makes a huge difference.
The adjuster is on the axle mount. We are talking half-turns on the adjusting nut here.
I doubt you can measure your actual lift that accurately and raise the adjuster that accurately.
That's incorrect. The 80s booster is just bigger / giving more brake force, but it doesn't interfere with brakeforce distribution. On a faulty LSPV it might even cause the brakes to lock sooner, worsening g the situation.
Modern cars have an electronic brake adjustment computing, which works in conjunction with the ABS. On mechanical vehicles there is a mechsnicsl LSPV, still. My opinion.
To adjust the LSPV: I did it this way (with a buddy to observe from outside).
- Clean it and make sure the sensing pin can be depressed quite easy. Often LSOVs are seized up.
- Put normal load in your truck: Tank half full, all gear in you normally carry.
Run it on tarmac, 30km/h, and brake..
1. Hard, but without locking the brakes. If your vehicle looses track, you have uneven braking. Adjust this first.
2. as hard as you would / can on an emergency until all brakes lock. Have the buddy observe from the side: The front brake must lock up first, the rear brake must lock up only slightly later. Adjust the LSPV leaver respectively: Down to axle: later / up to body: earlier.
It will take a few attempts. And yes: half a turn on the adjusting nut makes a difference.
3. Repeat on loose ground, e.g. a forest road (not completely loose gravel). You will notice the rear brake to lock a bit to early again, so adjust a bit again.
Done.
For the fun of it:
Here is a series of 3 videos that was produced for the German Buschtaxitreffen. A fellow cruiserhead and engineer, with a high sense in science, explained all the physics and demonstrated the adjustment according to the manual...
(Parts 2 & 3 in his channel) sorry German.
And an official Toyota training video
