What did you do on your 70 series today? (12 Viewers)

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Dynamats Spec. sheet says 2.0 lb/ft3




Looks like you got new fasteners or were able to re-use your push-in fasteners? Were they long enough for the 3/4" thickness? As it's adhesive backed, are the fasteners a 'belt and suspender' thing?

Yeah new fasteners, Wurth oem replacement. The insulation is pretty soft and flattens down easily. The adhesive on it is pretty strong but I imagine it might still come off eventually, so I used the fasteners too. I prefer how it looks with the fasteners as well.
 
Basically quadrupled my braking power today for about $500 and an hour worth of work by installing a PDI double diaphragm brake booster. Holy crap what a monster size upgrade.

Factory

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PDI
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The only problem I have is that I now can’t find the wire that plugs into the brake master cylinder. WTH.

Anyone know where the wire comes out of? I’ve spent an hour with a light going crazy.


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congrats on the upgrade. i did the terrain tamer version on my troopy, huge difference, especially in this hilly country where i live.
 
whats the benefit with these hood liners. Sound?
I always tend to think its better without them as the engine bay would run cooler
 
Head gasket time! Drove home 5.5 hours from Death Valley on it! These are stout little motors.Head is getting decked/ injectors tested, new water pump and thermostat/hoses being replaced.No cracks! Internals are really clean so hopefully will be good for another 2-300k. Glad I did it.. the set screw on rocker assembly backed out and luckily did not fall in lifter or oil drain hole.. it was wedged next to #3 valve spring

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Head gasket time! Drove home 5.5 hours from Death Valley on it! These are stout little motors.Head is getting decked/ injectors tested, new water pump and thermostat/hoses being replaced.No cracks! Internals are really clean so hopefully will be good for another 2-300k. Glad I did it.. the set screw on rocker assembly backed out and luckily did not fall in lifter or oil drain hole.. it was wedged next to #3 valve spring

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13bt?
 
i love doing exhaust for some strange reason, but i like plumbing ....
building the downpipe for my custom turbo setup was fun,
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making 2 pipes merge to this flange was interesting
looks as though yours was straightforward
 
Discovered that the snap ring on my winch hook had come off again, so I got a new one from the local hardware store. Hopefully this style hangs on a little longer than the old one.
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i used some additive products for the oil and the diesel tank today.

i have used the wynn's brand before in all of my cars (both diesel, petrol, old and new..) and I have always been satisfied with their products.

I have now used Super Charge® | Wynn's Europe - https://www.wynns.eu/product/super-charge/ this and this Diesel Total Action Treatment | Wynn's Europe - https://www.wynns.eu/product/diesel-total-action-treatment/ and i am already hearing less cracking and a more silent and smooth running engine.

let's see !
 
Head gasket time! Drove home 5.5 hours from Death Valley on it! These are stout little motors.Head is getting decked/ injectors tested, new water pump and thermostat/hoses being replaced.No cracks! Internals are really clean so hopefully will be good for another 2-300k. Glad I did it.. the set screw on rocker assembly backed out and luckily did not fall in lifter or oil drain hole.. it was wedged next to #3 valve spring

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Any reason for the HG failure? Overheat ?
 
This was on my new to me BJ73 crawler. I’d say age, lack of coolant changes over the years caused it along with it being original composite Head Gasket not MLS. I’m going to preemptively change my other BJ73 3b turbo one next with a MLS one as well. I’m pushing 16psi boost and the long climbs under full boost did not heat up but rather filled the resivors to overflow. My other 3b is set to 10psi with the Diesel 42 kit.

Any reason for the HG failure? Overheat
 
This was on my new to me BJ73 crawler. I’d say age, lack of coolant changes over the years caused it along with it being original composite Head Gasket not MLS. I’m going to preemptively change my other BJ73 3b turbo one next with a MLS one as well. I’m pushing 16psi boost and the long climbs under full boost did not heat up but rather filled the resivors to overflow. My other 3b is set to 10psi with the Diesel 42 kit.
Ahh yeah, the composite don’t like that extra boost. You should be good to go with the MLS one.
 
Driving my Kzj78 and within the last two days I’ve gotten some intermittent clicking sounds in the front passenger side. Lifted the vehicle and I can rotate the tire by hand to confirm it’s that side. Removed the wheel and I grab the hub as shown below, I can wiggle it and the brake disk moves, creating the same sound.

Is this a bad wheel bearing or something else?

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Yeah, your wheel bearings are loose and should be replaced. Probably not a bad idea to tackle a knuckle rebuild at the same time depending on when it was last done and what kind of shape your knuckles are in.
 
Yeah, your wheel bearings are loose and should be replaced. Probably not a bad idea to tackle a knuckle rebuild at the same time depending on when it was last done and what kind of shape your knuckles are in.
We have our other car in the shop at the moment so this is our only car for now. Knuckles look good and they’re not leaking. Wondering if I can do just the wheel bearings for now until we have two cars again and worry about a full knuckle rebuild later.
 
We have our other car in the shop at the moment so this is our only car for now. Knuckles look good and they’re not leaking. Wondering if I can do just the wheel bearings for now until we have two cars again and worry about a full knuckle rebuild later.
For sure, if you really needed to you could probably just repack the wheel bearings and tighten them up a bit until you have time to do a rebuild. That is assuming that the bearings themselves aren't in really bad shape with pitting etc.
 
Just spent $110 on 1/2" square steel tubing (140') to build the frames of the cabinets in the back of the troopy. I am a fan of this material. It's cheap, light and easy to work with. Finishing can be with 1/4" plyboo or sheet metal powder coated. I've done similar in our 80 6 years ago and it is like new after 100K miles of travel. Photos of the 80 attached.

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Started building the cabinets for the HDJ75/78. Hardest part is the rear fender location. I do cuts on the square tubings and then bend and weld the cuts. Use a low tech cardboard jig.


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