What are you working on? (2 Viewers)

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Anybody know where I can get the injectors serviced in either York or Lancaster counties?
 
Cass007 said:
Progress .... keep getting hung up on stupid things like waiting on my kid or wife to help guide me to the rearmost plenum bolt so I can remove the upper half and getting the small internal coolant connection pipe to come out of the lower portion near the thermostat.

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Haven't snapped anything off at this point, so WIN. Decided that rather than located and disconnect all the clips on the drivers side that haven't been apart since Clinton was President I will try to unhook the main plug inside and feed it backwards through the plenum. Many fewer connectors that way and I already have the 3 undone near the oil filter, just need to locate the VVT hoses still and I can cut them and replace if needed.

Would it really have been that hard to design the plenum to have the bolts on the top ... sheesh. Hoping to have the head off by the weekend if all goes well. Hoist and trolley for the I-beam in the garage should be here Friday and the other parts are showing up daily. @Crusha ... I'm already double your initial estimate in parts and tools.
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I hope pulling the wiring harness down through the intake works for you. I followed the F.S.M and pulled everything up through... a royal P.I.T.A... transmission connectors especially near impossible to disconnect.
 
cwlahr said:
I hope pulling the wiring harness down through the intake works for you. I followed the F.S.M and pulled everything up through... a royal P.I.T.A... transmission connectors especially near impossible to disconnect.
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Yeah, that was my concern after spending 30+ mins getting the two connectors off the oil pan area and another 30 mins trying in vain to get the forward knock sensor disconnected. I may get lucky and be able to lift the head enough with the hoist to remove the lower plenum in the air and not disconnect anything, but will need to get the 75lb hoist and trolley mounted first. It came yesterday in a crate that was destroyed by UPS, so I hope it's all there.

Finally got the last nut off the upper plenum (what a PITA) now need to find the VVT fittings and I should be able to start moving forward again. Had a neighbor stop over yesterday that just had a tree taken down and offering wood, so I had to squirrel for the day and grab that up. Off to watch the OTRAMM video for the 11th time to get the next steps down.
 
Looking for some help on a stupid unforeseen issue ... I need to roll the truck back ~20" to position under my hoist. I expected to be able to just cycle the key to the on position and roll it, but it won't come out of park and the main harness has already been unplugged from inside the truck.

Anything I can do here?
 
Should be a place near the shifter where you can insert a key or such and drop out the detent that prevents you from pulling it out of park. Check your owners manual it should tell you how.
 
Cass007 said:
Looking for some help on a stupid unforeseen issue ... I need to roll the truck back ~20" to position under my hoist. I expected to be able to just cycle the key to the on position and roll it, but it won't come out of park and the main harness has already been unplugged from inside the truck.

Anything I can do here?
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Floor jack?
 
Thanks guys ... got a hold of Onur for a consult and he had the solution (same as @shmukster). Remove the small cover just above the P on the shifter and press down while while sliding into neutral. Went fairly smoothly after that.

I was almost regretting buying the hoist and trolley combo, but so worth it today to be able to do this part by myself.
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Thread out the harness from between the intake runners and it's out.
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I was expecting #6 to be the FAIL as I have read it is the most common, but turns out it was #1.
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Should have everything off to the machine shop tomorrow and hopefully back by early next week. I give myself a solid 40% chance of getting this back together properly. The @OTRAMM vid on YouTube has been a massive help. Doubtful I could have made it this far without it.
 
Well, the "while I'm in there" stuff has begun. Might not be the best decision to see how many things I can tackle at once, but the steering was starting to groan a bit and so much stuff is already out of the way.

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Got the old gear off, now need to get the new one on. Can anyone confirm if I need to press it to a certain depth on the shaft or just tq the nut to 54 ft/lbs?

First parts back from being cleaned ...
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Soooooooo clean .... very happy.
 
I purchased a powder coating gun from Eastwood last weekend and decided to test it on some brackets on the 80 today. So I ended up pulling out the hold down hooks and 3rd row seat floor brackets. I cleaned all the parts on a wire wheel, then made a spray booth out some old cardboard boxes, and used an old toaster over to bake the parts. Tuned out pretty good.

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Pulled the springs off the 4 last week to get them re-arched. Shop suggested adding a leaf to the packs but I decided against it. Ended up getting almost 2" of lift out of the springs and hope they keep that arch for awhile although they are sure to eventually go flat again. I did get a surprise benefit from sll of this. For the nine years I've been driving the forty I've had some suspension noise that I couldn't pin down. Well when I removed the springs I found that military wrapped end that was in the frame mount was rubbing hard on the underside of the spring perch. Hmmm.... since the springs are symmetrical about their center pin I just put them back in opposite of the way they came out. Now the military wrap is in the shackle. Noise is gone and she rides smoothly...……...

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In preparation for the green trail run the first weekend in May, I have started to disassemble the Brown 4runner suspension to put on the silver 4runner.

It has not been an easy process and I am having Deja Vu all over again with the front upper control arm bolts.

Toyota in there infinite wisdom desided one long bolt through a metal collar through the shock tower is a good idea for the upper arms instead of two separate shorter bolts...

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Same thing happen on the old frame, but when I installed the arms then I didn't use grease and just went German spec on the bolt.

When I installed it on the new frame I used the same marine grease I used on every other bolt on the suspension and actually torqued it to factory spec. These bolts again rusted to the collar!

So besides the marine grease I am going to drill and tap holes and put some grease fittings in and hopefully prevent these bolts from rusting on the silver truck...
 
shmukster said:
Andy that looks awesome. How did you maintain the proper centerline/alignment of the transmission input shaft?
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Very carefully measuring, laying out and making a jig to hold both bellhousings before I cut them in half. Then I tacked them in the jig and bolted it up to the tranny to verify before welding.
 
New steering pump is in:
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New hoses on the upper intake stuff:
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New blue fan clutch arrived:
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Painted the upper plenum:
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Painted the exhaust manifolds too after they came back from being cleaned:
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Watched a lot of golf too.
 
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