What are you working on? (6 Viewers)

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Working on Woody's girlfriends Camry for oil consumption. Surprisingly clean cylinder walls but piston oil galley full of carbon.

New pistons going in and back together. If this isn't done today, I'll be stock for the green trail ride saturday....

 
Drove the bj74 for the first time in about 6 months!

A7801A9A-F08C-44A9-B742-92AC1C25A389.jpeg


It seems to be running a bit rich and the boost controller doesn’t seem to have made any difference. Seeing max 8-10lb wide open. Oem is supposed to be 8#.

If @shmukster or @Pacer or anyone who knows anything about Diesel engines have any idea please let me know!
 
allows you to lock or unlock the t case at will.
they will lock automatically when you engage low range....if you have a button you can lock it in high as well.
the 7 pin gets rid of the auto thing in low, so you can unlock it.
it may also allow you to lock the rears if the t case isnt locked.
 
Drove the bj74 for the first time in about 6 months!

View attachment 1958340

It seems to be running a bit rich and the boost controller doesn’t seem to have made any difference. Seeing max 8-10lb wide open. Oem is supposed to be 8#.

If @shmukster or @Pacer or anyone who knows anything about Diesel engines have any idea please let me know!
Have you changed the turbo, messed with the wastegate? It's been a while. How dose the boost controller factor in here. Maybe the turbo is too small and won't boost higher.
 
Brian nailed it ... it does all that. The main reason for me to do it on the wheeling truck is so that if I ever damage or break a driveshaft I can remove it, lock the center diff and still drive home. I was just surprised that the other wire seems to have been cut already, but I can't find in the FSM what it is for. The ABS has always been disabled in this truck since I purchased it, maybe that wire is what disabled it?

Took the day off from things today and will be back at it tomorrow.
 
This clip for the #6 injector broke while I was trying to remove it. I have the replacement clip on hand, anyone know how to de-pin it?
View attachment 1958217

Happy Easter everyone.
Got this figured out?
There is a tab sticking up on each pin, I can see them in your photo of the injection connector. The tab needs to be depressed with a tiny flat blade driver, then the wire shuved in slightly to relieve tension on the tab, then pull the wire/pin out from the back.
Or, just YouTube.
 
Working on Woody's girlfriends Camry for oil consumption. Surprisingly clean cylinder walls but piston oil galley full of carbon.

New pistons going in and back together. If this isn't done today, I'll be stock for the green trail ride saturday....

Hope you're getting paid!
 
Have you changed the turbo, messed with the wastegate? It's been a while. How dose the boost controller factor in here. Maybe the turbo is too small and won't boost higher.
Boost controller is put in line of the waste gate, and delays the opening of the waste gate letting the turbo build more boost.
Running rich diesel could be leaky/clogged injectors, injection timing, or a boost leak to name a few. Old diesel fuel can also piss a lot of stuff off.
 
Should I dump the rest of that tank and get new? It’s been started and run occasionally but hadn’t been driven at all since November or so. The fuel is probably 8-10 months old.

If I remember correctly the injectors and associated potential issues were something that you weren’t too keen to dig into?

I really want to get this thing back on the road!!! My garage is finally finished so I can actually start doing some work.
 
It’s not the worst idea to dump the fuel and/or add some kind of additive. It’s cheap and easy, and my solve some issues before chasing your tail.

As far as me diving into that you are correct. Given limited repair information and being super unfamiliar with motor would make my shy away from diagnosing drivability issues.
 
Got this figured out?
There is a tab sticking up on each pin, I can see them in your photo of the injection connector. The tab needs to be depressed with a tiny flat blade driver, then the wire shuved in slightly to relieve tension on the tab, then pull the wire/pin out from the back.
Or, just YouTube.

I kind of see what you are trying to say to me. I'm just super dense when it comes to things like this. The white pin on the bottom side came right out when I tugged on it this morning. Still can't get the actual pins to release. Something so simple, yet so challenging. Are the tabs on the top or bottom in the pic?

I turned down my give a damn and just cut the Pin-7 wire, whatever the other wire was cut for before, so be it. Should be fine ... I hope. Took the time and effort to put the ABS ECU back where it belonged and put all the screws back in it as well. Bottom side is all buttoned up now and then I installed the switch and put in my Useless Cubby Insert from Wit's End and mounted the RAM phone holder.

Looking to see if the rear heater lines are just connected in 3 spots. If so, I may as well remove them completely rather than leaving them there to rust.

Did a bunch of other small things today like cleaning up bolts and nuts for re-install.
 
Drove the bj74 for the first time in about 6 months!

View attachment 1958340

It seems to be running a bit rich and the boost controller doesn’t seem to have made any difference. Seeing max 8-10lb wide open. Oem is supposed to be 8#.

If @shmukster or @Pacer or anyone who knows anything about Diesel engines have any idea please let me know!

Just curious - were you on the Jersey Turnpike? I saw one very similar to this over in South Jersey on my way up to New Brunswick last week.
 
Not me sir. The 74 has been hiding in the back of the shop all winter and the Jersey turnpike was not involved in the 10 minute drive home the other day :)
 
Not me sir. The 74 has been hiding in the back of the shop all winter and the Jersey turnpike was not involved in the 10 minute drive home the other day :)

Had to ask - can’t imagine there are too many 70-series cruisers kicking around. Thinking back - I think the one I saw may have been a solid color (not stripes). Maybe purplish?
 
Hope you're getting paid!

I am, with him helping me lift the 4runner this weekend.

I couldn't leave him hanging, I've done so many of these from.my.time at Toyota that I know the engine by heart.

The cars fought us tooth and nail with everything else he has to do to it but the engine is gone well.
 
I am, with him helping me lift the 4runner this weekend.

I couldn't leave him hanging, I've done so many of these from.my.time at Toyota that I know the engine by heart.

The cars fought us tooth and nail with everything else he has to do to it but the engine is gone well.
Good, I was a little grumpy yesterday morning!

Just to be clear, are you doing in chassis rebuild here?

You were able to pull the pistons with the block still in the car? On jack stands in the driveway and you plan to have it done this week?

Damn! Get after it! :wrench:
 
I kind of see what you are trying to say to me. I'm just super dense when it comes to things like this. The white pin on the bottom side came right out when I tugged on it this morning. Still can't get the actual pins to release. Something so simple, yet so challenging. Are the tabs on the top or bottom in the pic?

I turned down my give a damn and just cut the Pin-7 wire, whatever the other wire was cut for before, so be it. Should be fine ... I hope. Took the time and effort to put the ABS ECU back where it belonged and put all the screws back in it as well. Bottom side is all buttoned up now and then I installed the switch and put in my Useless Cubby Insert from Wit's End and mounted the RAM phone holder.

Looking to see if the rear heater lines are just connected in 3 spots. If so, I may as well remove them completely rather than leaving them there to rust.

Did a bunch of other small things today like cleaning up bolts and nuts for re-install.

 
Thanks Pacer ... I kept thinking the pins were top or bottom. Depinning tools arrived this morning, so I will try this later today.
 

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