What are you working on? (4 Viewers)

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Need a little advice...
A few grinds, a couple clunks but nothing consistent or overly concerning at the time.

I say this because eventually they disappeared... which I assumed meant that the grease worked its way into the correct spots.
 
The pressure from the grease may have pushed the dry bearings against dry cups. Then the grease worked around.
 
Dropped the DS and the sound disappeared. One axis on the rear ujoint works well, the other isn't smooth. Front ujoint neither axis moves well. Ordered new ujoints today.
 
Finally had a nice day and got away from work early. Took yet another shot at the exhaust and secured the rear hanger. Now I'm seeing some power fall off up hills and think the cats may be bad and clogged. In addition, since the truck came back from inspection I have a new metal on metal sound that is either the exhaust or u-joints. Going to have @dci blair look at it this week. Things are breaking faster than I can try and fix them atm :bang:

Knocked out the 5k oil and filter change and did the charcoal canister swap as well as a preemptive fix.
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Set up a mount for my CO2 inflation system as well.
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Checked over the cooling system and saw the brown material continues to cake into everything. So hard to get rid of this stuff it seems. The more concerning part is that the overflow was completely dry. I'm only running distilled water in the whole system, but it's either steaming off or dripping but not leaving a puddle anywhere :meh:

I run the truck with the scan gauge all the time and never see temps over 195*F usually, so head gasket seems unlikely, but the coolant is going somewhere. It's not in the oil either. No latte coloring of foam in the cover or on the dipstick.
 
I've been running that way for five years now. Go through a gallon of coolant a year. No apparent leaks.
 
Most of the vehicles I have ever owned the over flow always seems dry. I don't know why either.
 
Thanks .. that is reassuring news. One less thing to worry about.
 
Had a grand ole time with the rear locker on Sunday. Last time I worked on it, I had R&R's the actuator. Once everything was put back together, the locker would not engage. I did hear it ratcheting, so I figured I was off a tooth inside the actuator.

So with that in mind, I tore into it on Sunday. As I messed around with it, it became obvious something else was going on. Long story short, I figured out that due to the corrosion of the aluminum actuator housing, the motor cap housing the magnet was sitting cockeyed, jamming up the works. What I thought was a 30 minute job turned into 4 hours, but at least the rear locker actually locked for the first time in three years.

I will not be surprised in the least if it does not work next time out in the woods, the actuator housing should really be replaced. I might try building up the corroded areas with epoxy and filing it back.
 
Had a grand ole time with the rear locker on Sunday. Last time I worked on it, I had R&R's the actuator. Once everything was put back together, the locker would not engage. I did hear it ratcheting, so I figured I was off a tooth inside the actuator.

So with that in mind, I tore into it on Sunday. As I messed around with it, it became obvious something else was going on. Long story short, I figured out that due to the corrosion of the aluminum actuator housing, the motor cap housing the magnet was sitting cockeyed, jamming up the works. What I thought was a 30 minute job turned into 4 hours, but at least the rear locker actually locked for the first time in three years.

I will not be surprised in the least if it does not work next time out in the woods, the actuator housing should really be replaced. I might try building up the corroded areas with epoxy and filing it back.
I've had good luck with J-B Weld building up the inside of an old magnesium Honda water pump cover.
 
I will probably give that a go. Can't buy the actuators on the used market.

Decided to get the front locker working last night. The front would not release on the August club run. Got it disengaged in the parking lot at AOAA with some help. I figured the works was out of time since we just slapped the actuator back in. Never that easy...

Long story short, the front actuator was not working. So i tore that down and found the magnet had broken loose. Broke off one screw in the actuator housing, but managed to extract it with a lot of heat and a pair of vice grips. A lot less corrosion on the actuator, but the journal that inserts into the axle housing is snapped off. I'll smear some ultra grey around it when the time comes to reinstall.
 
Pete, you get those lockers working and that thing will be unstoppable! Keep at it.
 
I think it was time to replace the rag joint on my fj40...

She goes down the road nice and smooth now!

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Got your money out of that one!
 
Pete, you get those lockers working and that thing will be unstoppable! Keep at it.

Front seems to be good to go. The rear is still giving me trouble. Engages whenever it darn well pleases, if it pleases. I've got the parts to switch over to a pneumatic actuator. Good excuse for OBA...
 
How about a cable actuater. I remember Downey selling a cable conversion kit many moons ago.
 
Big boo-boo on the block of the ‘93 I’m stripping.

It still ran.


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