What are you working on? (7 Viewers)

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Pulled the rear locker actuator out last night and tore it down. Someone has been in it before, but that is a good thing. The worm gear cavity was spotless. The motor not so much, but not bad. Ultimately the issue is the magnets, they have all broken loose. Plan to epoxy them back in today and get the actuator reassembled tonight.

Appears the new rear rotors have arrived, so if the pads show up by Friday, things are looking good to make the club run on Sat.
 
Finally getting around to building some sliders, ended up using the trail gear 67” taco sliders and made U brackets to go around the frame Instead of welding directly to the frame. Still need to add gussets and bracing, fully weld everything then off to powder coating.



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Nice!

I see a '75 CB200T...
 
I’m sure they would! Haha

Budget wise these were a great option. all in I’m at around 300 bucks and around 10hrs of fab time.

Got the sliders on Amazon with free shipping lol
 
@Cass007 your sure the nut for the wheel bearings is tight? I know you re torqued it but maybe check again.

Andy - I would see wobble when I lift the wheel with a jack. At least I did the first time when I followed the cheat sheet and only torqued to 10 ft-lbs.

@Crusha - If I clearance it with a grinder I would weaken it substantially. Would likely be better off having Andy plasma cut it off and weld in a small piece to push it out another 1/4-1/2". Its held from both the inner and outer sides. Just really frustrating since I've tried 3-4 times to secure it and it keeps breaking free.

Here are the pics of the front end stuff ...

Drivers front

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Pass front - you can see it's torn
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Pass side
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Drivers side
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Looking at things, it seems I'm driving on the inside of the tires pretty hard and the knuckles seem a bit splayed out on the bottoms on both sides. Is that a normal angle?
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Will try and get a pic of the shocks, but the are hard to see and man it's HOT out. In the back of the last pic you can see the cat so close to the slider.
 
@Bobby Williams the sliders look nice but I see a few problems.

1. You didn't allow for body movement or slider flex. Your going to want around 1" clearence for the body. It looks like you notched the rockers for the stand offs.

2. Your stand off modified for the exahust is not near strong enough.

3. You used a taco kit so I would recommend a 4th stand off for a heavy cruiser.
 
@Bobby Williams the sliders look nice but I see a few problems.

1. You didn't allow for body movement or slider flex. Your going to want around 1" clearence for the body. It looks like you notched the rockers for the stand offs.

2. Your stand off modified for the exahust is not near strong enough.

3. You used a taco kit so I would recommend a 4th stand off for a heavy cruiser.


Thanks man! there's much more going into the sliders to beef them up. this was just the inital fitment and tacked them together.

The only part where I don't have 1" clearance is the bottom rocker seam and that I will let clearance its self, it has almost 2" from the tube to the actual rocker.

Each leg is going to get a tube gusset and should be pretty stout when alls said and done. the exhaust leg is 4 x 3/8's plate and 1/4 wall 2x2 and will also get reinforcement similar to what @fireball posted.

Once its all welded together I'll test them out with the fork lift to see how she holds up before i powder coat. I've seem a few guys on mud build with taco sliders with only 3 legs and they seem to hold up pretty well.

@Crusha Believe it or not the diesel is really quiet straight piped. I was a little disappointed when I did it lol. looooots of turbo whistle though.
 
Got the actuator magnets epoxied back in place yesterday. Reassembled the actuator, used ultra grey silicone to seal things up. The corrosion of the cast aluminum housing is impressive, no way an o-ring was going to do any good.

Installed the actuator back into the axle housing. Forgot to make sure the screw hole for the fork was lined up rotationally beforehand. Ended up pulling it back out to do so. I could not hear it cycling, but verified it was working while it was out to align the shaft. Rear locker should be functional for the first time in three years.

Brake pads a due in today, so with any luck, I should have everything back together tonight.
 
Truck is back on all fours. Installed the new pads and rotor on the right side. I'll get to the left side some other time. Added some gear oil, but the gallon jug I had on the self only had a quart in it. Checked the vent line, and found the cause of the seal leaks. The nipple was bent over 90*. Looked factory. But it was pinched off. Fortunately I have a set of spare axles, which confirmed it was bent, and supplied an unbent nipple. The cap on the hose was also plugged, but that cleaned up easily.

So tomorrow I will pick up another gallon of gear oil and top it off. Looks like a go for the club run on Sat.
 
Back from my friend's wedding at Spring Lake in NJ ... nice place, but a bit like a retirement village. Anyway, here are pics of the slider issue with the cat and the shocks.

Just a poor angle on the cat makes it keep hitting the slider. I will try to push it up vertical one more time, but when it flexes it seems to break free and return to this state.
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Drivers side
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Pass side
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At this point I suppose it's just whatevs. The front springs finally showed up and as a preventative measure I ordered all new tie rod and steering end links from Onur as well as new front and rear bump stops. I have an appt to see Blair in 2 weeks and am super excited to get the lift installed. :bounce::bounce2:

Getting the 37" tires mounted to the new Method beadlocks this week ($225 :eek:) and was considering attempting the rear heater delete, but summer should be ending soon enough now and the passive heat is nice during the winter. Plus I'm super lazy, so maybe that's the real reason.
 
Tell someone she don’t need brakes just the skinny pedal lol
 
One step closer ... New 17" Method Racing beadlocks. Of course one of the tires I purchased off of CL had a torn bead, so had to buy a new one, it's never just A to B easy. Got the truck inspected as well.

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Need a little advice...
I added grease to my rear ujoints yesterday on the 80. Took it for a slow drive around the neighborhood and heard some "interesting" noises but nothing excessive. A few grinds, a couple clunks but nothing consistent or overly concerning at the time. Parked it for an hour or so before jumping in and taking it to dinner - no noises everything seemed fine ( I was listening very carefully for anything)

Left the house today and I had significant noise on accel and decel but throw it in N for a second and it calms down until breaking or accelerating again. Enough noise that I turned around after only getting 1.5 mile from the house - it sounded like it was rotational, metal on metal and spinning faster increased noise/intensity....

I'm not certain that I saw grease coming out of all cups. Could this lead to failure or putting the shaft out of balance? Could the new/fresh grease have changed angles or pressure on the rear pinon/tc?

The plan tomorrow is to drop the rear drive shaft, lock the center diff and see if the sound is still there. While the drive shaft is out I'm considering pulling it apart inspecting the spiders and splines for excessive grease/build up, regreasing and putting it back in.

What else? any other experiences that might help - Thanks!
 

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