Builds Welcome home Matilda - faded like your favorite pair of jeans (11 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Sitting at 475 trouble free miles so far.

All of these miles I've been varying the rpms, never staying at one single rpm for very long. What an annoying way to drive - for me and for everyone else on the road. We've been trying to stick to country roads, but it takes a long time to get from our house near downtown Denver to the edge of the metro area!

During this driving I've also been accelerating at 50-80% of capacity and decelerating in kind of a slow repeated way. I haven't yet stomped on the throttle for 100% acceleration. Some driving has been the aforementioned country roads, and some has been simply commuting to and from work, grocery store, etc.

Idle vac is now near 11inHg, so some "breaking in" is happening for sure. I'll definitely change the oil this weekend to get rid of any metal particles in the sump. I think this weekend we'll also do a light and easy 4wd trail. It's mostly a graded dirt road except for one sort-of-spicy hill climb. We'll take backroads all the way there to continue the break in driving, that way I can get another 60-70 miles of break in, but on the way back it might finally be highway time!

Talking to BVB he said the TPR rings I used were moly-coated and wouldn't need a whole lot of break in, but I'm overly cautious. And honestly these country drives have been pretty nice. Head out with Karen, play some tunes, see some pronghorn, marvel at the topography of the Colorado plains. It's been quality time.
 
Ha....sounds like a game of red light green light! My wife would be throwing up all over the place. ha..... good news though.
 
Ha....sounds like a game of red light green light! My wife would be throwing up all over the place. ha..... good news though.
I’m trying to be fairly smooth with accel and decel … but it’s still getting old haha.
 
IMG_0874.jpeg


Thoughts on fuel line insulation? I installed this stuff when I was putting the new motor together thinking it was a good idea. The weather’s been hot and it’s been hard to start the motor after it’s warmed up. Does it do a better job of keeping heat inside the pipe than it does keeping it out?

Also experiencing backfire in decel every time. My FCS is verified working. I can watch it work on my A/F gauge. Idling at 14, cruising at 13-14.5, accelerating at 12-13. Too rich?
 
I’m like 99% sure that line is aluminum and being that it’s not in contact with the block or coolant system and is sitting directly behind the radiator fan I think it cools pretty quickly on its own.

When I set up my sniper with headers I used a soft line going through that space and installed a heat/abrasion sleeve. The rubber was resting against the valve cover so, directly contacting heat and abrasive surfaces. The sniper is also more finicky with fuel temps.

I think the stock configuration is fine as long as you’re carbureted.
 
View attachment 3951935

Thoughts on fuel line insulation? I installed this stuff when I was putting the new motor together thinking it was a good idea. The weather’s been hot and it’s been hard to start the motor after it’s warmed up. Does it do a better job of keeping heat inside the pipe than it does keeping it out?

Also experiencing backfire in decel every time. My FCS is verified working. I can watch it work on my A/F gauge. Idling at 14, cruising at 13-14.5, accelerating at 12-13. Too rich?
I'm in the same 'backfiring during decel' boat. I was thinking maybe too rich, too.
 
View attachment 3951935

Thoughts on fuel line insulation? I installed this stuff when I was putting the new motor together thinking it was a good idea. The weather’s been hot and it’s been hard to start the motor after it’s warmed up. Does it do a better job of keeping heat inside the pipe than it does keeping it out?

Also experiencing backfire in decel every time. My FCS is verified working. I can watch it work on my A/F gauge. Idling at 14, cruising at 13-14.5, accelerating at 12-13. Too rich?

I don't think the fuel line insulation helps, probably also doesn't hinder. I've never experienced any fuel related issues running in 90+ heat in the SE US and 100+ heat in SW US.
 
I don't think the fuel line insulation helps, probably also doesn't hinder. I've never experienced any fuel related issues running in 90+ heat in the SE US and 100+ heat in SW US.
What about at altitude?
 
It's a different realm for me, but I dont think reflective loom on the fuel lines would hurt. But I dont think thats causing a problem for you. On James' 40 hes dont everything going in and out of the cabin, and it cut temps down on the truck a ton. But that's a torture device of a truck. @RiggityJ
 
I don't think the fuel line insulation helps, probably also doesn't hinder. I've never experienced any fuel related issues running in 90+ heat in the SE US and 100+ heat in SW US.
Same with me on the 60. I have noticed when my carb fan plug came out and it didnt want to hot restart.
 
Same with me on the 60. I have noticed when my carb fan plug came out and it didnt want to hot restart.

Carb fan to prevent starting issues when hot is a benefit. The fan on my fan no longer works, I think the wire to the sensor is broken. Sometimes after driving and stopping on a hot day, then starting and driving I'll experience a brief hiccup with fuel starvation. I think the fuel in the bowl evaporates and drops leading to a lag in consistent fuel delivery.

When I was DDing the FJ40, a '77 that lacked a fan from the factory, I installed a carb fan with an in-cab switch to cool the carb. I wasn't dealing with no start issues with a hot engine, instead it was the lack of fuel once restarting and driving. For example on a hot day stopping, then pulling out into traffic and the 2F would almost die from lack of fuel, but if I would remember to flip the switch to run the carb fan I had no hot restart problems.
 
Carb fan to prevent starting issues when hot is a benefit. The fan on my fan no longer works, I think the wire to the sensor is broken. Sometimes after driving and stopping on a hot day, then starting and driving I'll experience a brief hiccup with fuel starvation. I think the fuel in the bowl evaporates and drops leading to a lag in consistent fuel delivery.

When I was DDing the FJ40, a '77 that lacked a fan from the factory, I installed a carb fan with an in-cab switch to cool the carb. I wasn't dealing with no start issues with a hot engine, instead it was the lack of fuel once restarting and driving. For example on a hot day stopping, then pulling out into traffic and the 2F would almost die from lack of fuel, but if I would remember to flip the switch to run the carb fan I had no hot restart problems.
You know, I’ve thought about putting the carb fan on a switch. Right now it’s on the thermosensor and works as it should. But I wonder if there is any benefit or additional cooling if you have that fan going while driving. Probably the air coming through the radiator and main fan is so much more airflow that the carb fan doesn’t matter in that scenario.
 
You know, I’ve thought about putting the carb fan on a switch. Right now it’s on the thermosensor and works as it should. But I wonder if there is any benefit or additional cooling if you have that fan going while driving. Probably the air coming through the radiator and main fan is so much more airflow that the carb fan doesn’t matter in that scenario.

While driving, perhaps even while stopped, with the radiator fan pushing air through the engine bay I don't think the carb fan would add any benefit.

Putting the carb fan on a switch has benefits and drawbacks. Benefit is that the brittle wiring of the thermosensor has been eliminated, plus you have control over the fan operation. Drawback is leaving the fan on too long and it drains the battery.

I bet we can put more effort into this and really overthink it. :lol:
 
While driving, perhaps even while stopped, with the radiator fan pushing air through the engine bay I don't think the carb fan would add any benefit.

Putting the carb fan on a switch has benefits and drawbacks. Benefit is that the brittle wiring of the thermosensor has been eliminated, plus you have control over the fan operation. Drawback is leaving the fan on too long and it drains the battery.

I bet we can put more effort into this and really overthink it. :lol:
Yeah, right? Let’s keep going haha!

That wire does get brittle though, with all the manifold heat. The wiring I do on my truck is nice, but not that one … I think it has three butt splices where I’ve cut out brittle areas and replaced them. I should put a wrap on it one day.
 
Last edited:
I have a carb cooling fan on my EFI. Blows on the brake master more than anything. From what I've heard they came like that for some reason?
 
I have a carb cooling fan on my EFI. Blows on the brake master more than anything. From what I've heard they came like that for some reason?
Yep, the US-spec 62 retained the carb cooling fan for whatever reason. I’ve seen it debated whether it serves any function in the 3FE engine bay, or if it was simply an engineering overbite, like “well we always had that in there so keep installing them!”
 
Thoughts on fuel line insulation? I installed this stuff when I was putting the new motor together thinking it was a good idea. The weather’s been hot and it’s been hard to start the motor after it’s warmed up. Does it do a better job of keeping heat inside the pipe than it does keeping it out?

Also experiencing backfire in decel every time. My FCS is verified working. I can watch it work on my A/F gauge. Idling at 14, cruising at 13-14.5, accelerating at 12-13. Too rich?

Backfire is unburned gas igniting in the hot exhaust pipe. The function of the 'Deceleration circuit' is to prevent that by closing the ICS when you let off the skinny pedal above 1800 rpm. It seems like you've disabled some of the systems, temporarily. Is your Emissions computer hooked up? A/F around 14-15 is normal, though.

I just bought something called 'A Carb Cheater' that is a wireless A/F, RPM, and VAC gauge monitor set - Will install soon and do a write up. This will replace my current analog Autometer A/F meter, which I don't like.


 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom