Builds Warhorse-LS3 C&C & more (2 Viewers)

[NCFJ]

This is an 80 tank, so the fill tube was on the left. Sometimes the goods are with you, new position is a straight shot to filler tube. Would have been hard without the beveled section on the tank

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Just out of curiosity why use the 80 tank instead of the 60 tank?

 

[PCC]

Just out of curiosity why use the 80 tank instead of the 60 tank?

It's an 80 frame

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I understand that just wanted to know if because its an 80 frame you have to go this route i am thinking yes because of the main x member that the coil springs sit on is in the way and panhard bar also.

It's an 80 frame

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Thanks for the laugh, on the mark on the first part In actuality I really do not mind, I like fiberglass and what can be done with it and I like the final result. This job is something a great many 60 owners have in their future unless someone steps up to start reproducing them.

Man...a few things I’m thinking. First of all what an awesome build. My son @mcguirejohnson and a neighbor @fl4031003 have done this same thing and you’ve seemed to have mastered several challenging parts to this conversion. Also, the dash...do you have a picture of the texture used (product) as well as the paint you shot it with. What great work you’re doing here. And thank you for sharing in such detail. Jimmy.

 

[NCFJ]

Just out of curiosity why use the 80 tank instead of the 60 tank?

PCC is correct, it is an 80 frame. The stock 60 tank will not work, that and the owner wanted a long range tank. I knew that nothing off the shelf was going to bolt right in, this tank is the closest I could get without going custom. I do believe that LRA can accommodate things like fill tube placement etc with enough lead time. @wardharris can tell you better than I can.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

PCC is correct, it is an 80 frame. The stock 60 tank will not work, that and the owner wanted a long range tank. I knew that nothing off the shelf was going to bolt right in, this tank is the closest I could get without going custom. I do believe that LRA can accommodate things like fill tube placement etc with enough lead time. @wardharris can tell you better than I can.

Thanks for the reply knew there had to be a reason for it was just curious what the reason was other than its an 80 frame lol

 

[NCFJ]

Man...a few things I’m thinking. First of all what an awesome build. My son @mcguirejohnson and a neighbor @fl4031003 have done this same thing and you’ve seemed to have mastered several challenging parts to this conversion. Also, the dash...do you have a picture of the texture used (product) as well as the paint you shot it with. What great work you’re doing here. And thank you for sharing in such detail. Jimmy.

Thank you sir, you are too kind.


Texture coating is SEM #39853 and comes in a spray can. I have not painted it yet, it is sitting on the back seat of my 62. Its clean and not a lot of dust in there and I want to see if temperature changes have any effect on it. I'll be using SEM paint when I do paint it.

 

[NCFJ]

If you've ever pulled the carpet on a 60 and saw the mess under it you know what it took to get here. Finished off with wire wheel. Primer and Lizard Skin sound deadening and heat shield. Dynomat over that

 

[NCFJ]

All primed & ready for Lizard Skin. Cool and quiet is the payoff! Doors that sound solid when closed. What is old is new again.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Stan,

What paint mfg are you using these days? PPG? Single stage looks like.

Jason

 

[NCFJ]

The paint is Nason base/clear coat.

 

[NCFJ]

First coat of Lizard Skin applied, tank included. Sound deadening. Lizard Skin heat shield is next.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

The is Nason base/clear coat.

That is my go to. I've used it on my last 5 builds and I like the way it lays down.

J

 

[NCFJ]

The last of the Lizard Skin on the shell! This coat is heat shield.

Started cleaning up the under hood OEM wires.

 

[gregnash]

Stan, were you spraying the lizardskin/heatshield down with a shutz type gun? Curious as this year I will be moving on to the interior since I pretty much finished the exterior. One of the things I have always wanted to do was quiet down and cool down the inside of the truck (quote from my brother a couple years ago when he drove BeBe home from the family cabin where she had sat for a bit when I broke my leg was... I don't think my nutz have sweat the much since I was in high school due to interior heat!!) and was thinking about pulling up all the old jute and sound deadener to put something like this down (also to inspect and see if I have any body rust on the inside).

 

[NCFJ]

This is a good idea of the difference applying Lizard Skin makes. I am using a Dynamat type material on the floor, not sold on applying it to the roof, I am afraid of it eventually falling down on the headliner.

 

[NCFJ]

Greg, yes a similar gun. Large bore gun for undercoatings etc. Get one with a cup and clean up immediately, this stuff sticks to everything.

 

[ss95003]

so do you apply both sound and heat to the pillars and roof? don't see that in this picture.

 

[TonyP]

Stan, looks fantastic. I've been leaning towards this exact procedure (Prime/Lizard/Lizard/Dynamat) for my Troopy so it's very nice to follow along with this.

What did you do for an undercoating? Sorry if I missed it previously. Keep the OEM stuff or Lizard Skin ceramic also? I'm curious how the Lizard Skin would hold up as an undercoating and whether it'll require a top coat like I've been reading about.