VSC OFF switch install. (2 Viewers)

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Ok I’ll add that to my enormous list of things to do with steering and front suspension. But like I mentioned, the vehicle drives just fine until I hit that hill, then the VSC/(I’m guessing ABS too?) goes haywire. I feel like I’ve experienced everything the previous posters have experienced and I plan on updating all the issues with steering and suspension just not all at once.
Please do I love hearing how people experience, diagnose, and then fix issues like these. Keep in mind that's just a hypothesis not a definitive explanation. Jack the front up and grab the wheel at 12 & 6 and try to wiggle it, then again at 3 & 9 looking for any play at all. I know it's scary but replicating it can be helping in narrowing down the cause (ie. does it only do it turning left or right, only at or above a certain speed, what about turning from a stop at a light, etc..). I had this same issue and it damn near threw me off a left-sweeping overpass onto the interstate below. Ended up being loose bearings.
 
Please do I love hearing how people experience, diagnose, and then fix issues like these. Keep in mind that's just a hypothesis not a definitive explanation. Jack the front up and grab the wheel at 12 & 6 and try to wiggle it, then again at 3 & 9 looking for any play at all. I know it's scary but replicating it can be helping in narrowing down the cause (ie. does it only do it turning left or right, only at or above a certain speed, what about turning from a stop at a light, etc..). I had this same issue and it damn near threw me off a left-sweeping overpass onto the interstate below. Ended up being loose bearings.

It happens going 55-65 mph going up a sweeping left hill. So, yaw sensor, wheel bearings, wheel speed sensors, steering rack/bushings,you heard of anything else causing this issue?
It sound so much more tempting to bypass the VSC and slowly rebuild. Thanks for the quick responses tho 🤙🏼
 
Delete gather parts redo to retry same hill always good to have option to turn off just my opinion

So I’m still unclear on how the OP ran his wiring..

there’s 3 wires -

pink/black to ECU
pink/black to signal/diff
and a ground

On a 3 prong SPDT rocker switch -

Top prong
Middle prong
Bottom prong
 
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So I’m still unclear on how the OP ran his wiring..

there’s 3 wires -

pink/black to ECU
pink/black to signal/diff
and a ground

On a 3 prong SPDT rocker switch -

Top prong
Middle prong
Bottom prong

Wait... I think I figured it out what the OP is getting at..

Top prong > ground
Middle prong > ECU
Bottom prong > signal wire

That way...
When the switch is pushed to the top, ECU/VSC is grounded.
When the switch isn’t pushed or in open, middle position, the ECU and TRAC is floating and most likely both disabled
When the switch is pushed to the bottom, the VSC circuit is in original operation

This seem right?
 
FWIW, I just bought a 2000 LX470 w/ 290k. The PO went on and on during the buying negotiation, preening about how he had this VSC light problem (and unasked for steering takeover) and how he fixed it with help of the internet. It turns out that the steering rack bushings were worn beyond belief and the associated float kept confusing the sensors. His $5 toggle switch completely covered the problem up, so that if I hadn't had the presence of mind to identify the root cause, I could have easily been looking at a catastrophic failure at the worst possible time. Needless to say, the switch is no longer necessary due to the new steering rack.

I also have a 2008 LX570 which I've driven for years and I'm very well aware of the shortcomings of the drive-by-wire system. I'm a design engineer with over three decades of industry experience including OEM automotive design and build. I do not consider myself smart enough to trim any piece of a system this complex and sleep soundly afterwards. Just my 2¢.
 
you did it?

i need to add a switch on mine. I just did the straight cut and ground.

test it out (without family) on that same hill.

good luck.
I haven’t cut yet, I’m just want to be clear before cutting any wires.. it makes sense I just want clarification from people who have done it already.
 
FWIW, I just bought a 2000 LX470 w/ 290k. The PO went on and on during the buying negotiation, preening about how he had this VSC light problem (and unasked for steering takeover) and how he fixed it with help of the internet. It turns out that the steering rack bushings were worn beyond belief and the associated float kept confusing the sensors. His $5 toggle switch completely covered the problem up, so that if I hadn't had the presence of mind to identify the root cause, I could have easily been looking at a catastrophic failure at the worst possible time. Needless to say, the switch is no longer necessary due to the new steering rack.

I also have a 2008 LX570 which I've driven for years and I'm very well aware of the shortcomings of the drive-by-wire system. I'm a design engineer with over three decades of industry experience including OEM automotive design and build. I do not consider myself smart enough to trim any piece of a system this complex and sleep soundly afterwards. Just my 2¢.

Had mine in for a new radiator and asked them to give it a thorough going-over for any other problems. Ended up replacing the rack and bushings. Sounds like bushings might be the first thing for anyone to check?
 
Tell me if I understood this thread correctly. There is an underling issue with VSC engaging on some rigs when it shouldn't, and instead of fixing the broken safety system the safety system is disabled completely? If I didn't understand it correctly, then what's causing the system to engage on dry pavement at reasonable speed? Mine has only turned on once for a second in the last snow, but never on windy mountain dirt/gravel roads.
 
Some want to kill the VSC activation for certain offroad uses & conditions, others to mitigate the misunderstood activations-

For the latter- When you install a lift on the truck, and raise the front end near its working limit, the yaw rate sensor will be out of spec and need to be reset via a zero point calibration. This should solve the VSC activating on curves, especially declining radius curves. It should also be performed any time you get an alignment.
 
Had mine in for a new radiator and asked them to give it a thorough going-over for any other problems. Ended up replacing the rack and bushings. Sounds like bushings might be the first thing for anyone to check?
It would be for me.
 
Some want to kill the VSC activation for certain offroad uses & conditions, others to mitigate the misunderstood activations-

For the latter- When you install a lift on the truck, and raise the front end near its working limit, the yaw rate sensor will be out of spec and need to be reset via a zero point calibration. This should solve the VSC activating on curves, especially declining radius curves. It should also be performed any time you get an alignment.
Is there a DIY process to calibrate that yaw rate sensor?

Also I should add my 2000 LC did the beep warning while just highway cruising at 55-70, one day in an off camber left hand turn it went into full bore take over mode, activated ABS on one front wheel then the body rolled and the opposite left rear wheel was engaged. All the while it’s like your power steering gets turned off.

Ended up the o-ring on the oil filter housing was leaking SLOWLY! This caused a slow degradation of the rubber bushing to the rack just below the filter housing.

I went with a poly replacement and all is repaired now. Unless I really drive hard into an off camber turn, “usually left” bit I am barely lifted and would love the option to turn the systems off now.
 
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Is there a DIY process to calibrate that yaw rate sensor?

Also I should add my 2000 LC did the beep warning while just highway cruising at 55-70, one day in an off camber left hand turn it went into full bore take over mode, activated ABS on one front wheel then the body rolled and the opposite left rear wheel was engaged. All the while it’s like your power steering gets turned off.

Ended up the o-ring on the oil filter housing was leaking SLOWLY! This caused a slow degradation of the rubber bushing to the rack just below the filter housing.

I went with a poly replacement and all is repaired now. Unless I really drive hard into an off camber turn, “usually left” bit I am barely lifted and would love the option to turn the systems off now.
Two methods-either with techstream or low tech with a paper clip (jumper).

Search zero point calibration and you’ll find the how to
 
Thanks for this thread. I just performed this modification on my 2006 and I'm very pleased with the ABSENCE of the annoying nannies. I can power through sand now without the stupid traction control bringing the vehicle to a halt. This crap is for people who don't know how to drive or don't want to. There. I said it.
 
Thanks for this thread. I just performed this modification on my 2006 and I'm very pleased with the ABSENCE of the annoying nannies. I can power through sand now without the stupid traction control bringing the vehicle to a halt. This crap is for people who don't know how to drive or don't want to. There. I said it.
No, disabling it is for people that either have a faulty system, or don't know how to drive. Like I said, I had it only turn on once, with my center diff unlocked and I was heavy on the gas at the light in the ice and snow. Once I let up off the gas a bit it was all well, but never bogged down or slowed from the system. Not talking about A-Trac here. Now, if the center was locked, I would not have had an issue at all. At all. It was my bad for either not engaging the center lock, or not going easier off the line. If you're in sand then the center diff should be locked, and the issue would not be there by default. In my '83 FJ60 I would be in 4WD in sand, and that's the same as us locking our center diff. There I said it.
 

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