Vel's '76 resto-mod (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 14, 2016
Threads
3
Messages
182
Location
Port Orchard, WA
Well I figure I start a thread to both keep me motivated and also so I can ask the million questions I am sure I will have!

This first post will be a bit lengthy.....you can skip it for the most part though if you just want to see work.

Quick info though...

1976 FJ40
Chevy 283
TH350 Tranny
Stock transfer case

Bit about me...Im 28 right now. Its only been the last ~5 years I have really been into cars/trucks/ect. Even so it has mostly been just basic "swapping parts" on my Tacoma and taking it out off-roading and camping. But Ive learned to do brakes and the such. Also picked up a welder a few months ago and have been playing with that....which turns out will come in quite handy! Ever since I saw a FJ40 I wanted one. Its on of the vehicles that soon as I saw it I knew i wanted it.

Well last weekend my desire/dream came true! I saw another member post a for sale ad on here and base don the post I jumped on it. We started talking on a Wednesday (tuesday night i dont remember) and I met up with him Saturday morning and purchased it after looking at it for maybe 30 minutes. Had it towed to my place that evening.

All I knew about it was it showed 40k on the odometer, but wasnt sure if that was 40k or 140k. It had a Chevy 283, TH350 automatic tranny, and the stock transfer case. The brakes also didnt work. The PO also told me about 15 years ago it was "worked on" and alot of bondo was used. The PO told me he had been daily driving it for a few years then had parked it and it sat for four years.

But looking it over it looked pretty good! I didnt see any real major rust on the frame, the engine was there and looked good, and a lot of stock parts looked good.

So for the first pictures will be the day i brought it home. I did clean the wind shields up a bit. 4 years of pollen and dirt took a bit of elbow grease but cleaned up nicely!

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it came with Ambulance Doors. They just werent installed. Same with the tire carrier. Both of those looked to be in pretty good shape and wont need to much work thankfully.

Upon getting it home I discovered problems 1 and 2. Problem 1.....the rear pumpkin started leaking when we off loaded it from the tow guys trailer. Not to big of a deal since I planned on rebuilding the axles anyways. But always a bummer to see something like that! Problem 2....the brakes. I pressed the pedal down and heard a nasty hissing and it bottomed out. Well this turned out to be why....



The brake line was cracked and spewed brake fluid everywhere. I replaced that line with a temporary fix line, rebleed the brakes, and.....crap another leak. This time the rear line from that runs across the rear axle. So replaced that line and had some brake pressure. At this point I called it quits on the brakes. They work for stopping at slow speeds but Id never trust them at anything over 5mph. Not sure if the booster is bad or its another leak or what. But part of my build plan is to replace the brakes anyways.

O and I got it running during all that too. Luckily it mostly just needed a good cleaning and a new battery to get started.

Well with it running and the brakes only marginally working, I decided it was time to pull it into the garage and start tearing it down. Which ends post number 1 :)
 
Well after getting it into the garage I knew I wanted to change the oil. I had planned on just doing that. But an oil change turned into ~4 hours of working on it.

So the design of the drain plug on the 283 led me to doing a lot more than just an oil change. I removed the fender and the front portion. Thankfully the rust wasnt bad on the bolt. Two snapped in half but that didnt really matter. All that stemmed from the tight clearance with the exhaust. Theres just enough room to remove the drain plug.

By the way Im curious on this Power Steering. Well I think it is PS lol. Its hooked up to a PS unit on the 283. Its stamped Toyota.
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Well during and after the oil change I kept taking things apart. Which was both a high and low emotionally. I discovered A LOT of what the previous owners had done. Which was basically dont fix the rust. Instead use a fiberglass cloth and bondo to make it look good. They also put diamond plating running boards and rear quarter panel protection. Well I removed that and then peeled away the bondo and discovered this......

Drivers Side running board removed....
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The passenger side wasnt quite as bad
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The rear though was pretty bad....you can see the bondo section that peeled off as a "fix"
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And just another picture showing the rear more
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One interesting part in disassembling thing was the fasteners used. The PO used whatever they had it seems like. So the diamond plating had 7/16" , 10mm, and 12mm fasteners. Just made me chuckle a bit but still annoying have to constantly switch tools


Well after this I decided to call it quits for the day. Bit demoralized but I already started looking at replacement panels which raised spirits since they are a lot cheaper than I thought at least!
 
Nice find @velillen welcome to the club. It looks to be in pretty good shape for a strong foundation. Good luck with it and have fun.

Thanks! Though you posted before I could do the next post lol. Overall though I dont think it is to bad for the price I paid so I am happy with having to fix things up
 
Welcome aboard from the other coast. I've got a similar rig - 1975 FJ40 with a 1967 283 out of an old C10 pickup. I also have similar objectives - to fix it up "as time/money allow." Looks like you definitely have your work cut out for you in the "paint and body" department.

The 283 is a nice little engine in this truck. Everyone will tell you "there's no replacement for displacement" but the "little" V8's suit these trucks very nicely, at least on the road. I don't trust mine enough yet to wheel it.

I feel your pain regarding the PO's repairs/modifications. I'm coming up on the 4 year mark of owning my 40, and I'm STILL in the process of undoing everything.
 
Also - regarding your brakes - replace every line. Metal or rubber. There are hard line kits available, or build your own. I made mine out of niccle-copper alloy (trade name NiCop or Cunifer) That stuff is SUPER easy to flare, and won't rust.

My brake lines all looked good from the outside, but they rust from the inside, out. I had 2 snap on me when I was trying to remove them. If two of your lines have blown, the rest are probably on their way out. The alloy is more money than steel, but at least it's something I won't need to worry about again...
 
Oh, Man :eek: Good thing you've got a welder. You're gonna use it... a lot!
 
Also - regarding your brakes - replace every line. Metal or rubber. There are hard line kits available, or build your own. I made mine out of niccle-copper alloy (trade name NiCop or Cunifer) That stuff is SUPER easy to flare, and won't rust.

My brake lines all looked good from the outside, but they rust from the inside, out. I had 2 snap on me when I was trying to remove them. If two of your lines have blown, the rest are probably on their way out. The alloy is more money than steel, but at least it's something I won't need to worry about again...

Thankfully I had already been planning on redoing all the brake lines. I had just hoped to get to drive it around a bit before tearing it all apart. I actually had been looking at the NiCop stuff already. For the price of buying all the tools (flaring kit, bender, and a straightener) plus the fittings it would be cheaper than most kits. But a full brake rebuild was already planned including soft lines, hard lines, and rebuilding the rear drums at least. Not sure on the front disc's till I tear them down and get a look at them.

Oh, Man :eek: Good thing you've got a welder. You're gonna use it... a lot!

Least I will get my money out of it! I actually bought it sort of for this project. I wasn't planning this much work but o well there. It did come in handy on the diamond plate already so its more than made itself useful. Some of the bolts had a round, flat head and would just spin with the nut on. SO tacked a nut onto the flat and got them out easy.

Looks like an fj60 PS box / shock mount. The fj60 box works pretty well. That's what I have, the non shocktop version though.

Looking at FJ60 one it looks like a good possibility! Once I get to tearing it down I can see better. Everything is covered in a layer of grease/dirt/mud.
 
Mine has been a "as money AND time allows" project....

The rust on mine was similar, and I originally planned a quick 'get it going and use off road'... and it started with pulling fenders.... 3.5 years later..... (though mine hadn't been road-bound in over 30 years... no, not a mistype).

I see it had WA plates, you in WA?
 
Yup im in WA. Those are the PO's plate. But I am in Port Orchard. I haven't bothered registering it yet to get my own plates.

Luckily I have my Tacoma which is setup for off-roading and camping so this project can take as long as it needs. Just means my car has to be outside...which with the truck and FJ it will have opt be outside anyways.
 
Like Berringer said-they take time regardless of budget-welcome bro!
 
Well day two of tearing into her. Its kind of funny cause everytime I remove something its like 50/50 if itll be a sigh of relief or disappointment!

But I got the seats and fuel tank out and then took time to just vacuum up everything. Tons of loose rust and debris.

First thing..what exactly is this? A fuel separator/charcoal filter? Is it something that needs to be replaced/checked?
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After fuel tank removal and clean up I got a good look at the floor pans. The passengers side isnt to bad. Just a bit of rust through by the rocker panel as far as I can tell. So that is the positive!
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On to the negatives.....

The drivers side is a lot worse then I thought. Its rusted pretty much all along the rocker and then along the rear "wall" portion.
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Then the rear had both a positive and negative. I got the aftermarket bumper off. The frame actually looks quite good so Im happy there! The negatives.....the screws holding the lights are striped. And the rust on at least the passenger side quarter panel is worse than i thought. THe rust goes all the way to the lip where the upper parts sit and also around on the "b" pillar as ive heard it called. The wheel wells also have some rust to deal with. They have some spots that i punched a hole right through.
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So basically lots more demoralizing things. But thats part of tearing it down I suppose. With so much body work though Im not sure what Ill do. Either find another tub in better shape....or fix it up. For now though....keep taking it apart
 
I agree with you and would keep an eye out for a donor tub. Will save you a ton of time and $$ in the long run.
Luckily you live in the part of the world where rust free tubs do come up for sale every once in a while.
Keep at it, keep posting, we are counting on you :steer:
 
Found this part out thread on a 75 tub. Ad says no rot
Parting Out: - Parting out two 72fj40's and one 75 fj40

I had looked at that thread. He is a good 10-12 hours away from me though and I have zero idea how to ship something like that, that wouldn't be cost prohibitive. Bi to far for me to go pick it up or look at it.

Ill just keep tearing it down and see how bad everything is exactly and what all really needs to be fixed. And keep my eye out for a donor body lol
 
Just keep moving, as things come apart you're still making forward progress... know that unless you put a ton of money into it it will never be a "show" level car... so kinda treat it as such - meaning you can put it back together however you want.
 

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