Valve Cover gasket repair.

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Jul 20, 2014
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I am going to attempt to either repair this myself this weekend, or pay to have it done:( I am afraid that i will break something, or it will go wrong and then I have my truck stuck in the garage at work. That will be bad come Monday. I have the o ring for the Distributor and a gasket with spark plug donuts. I have looked thru the FSM and i could not find exactly the pages that related to this job. There is a section about removing the head I am guessing that i could just follow those pages and stop when the valve cover comes off. The worst part is that the whole top of the motor is covered in a desert dust/oil mix that looks like it will take hours to clean. I don't have running water accessible where the work will take place. I am pondering brining it ti my local mechanic, but I am afraid it will cost $600!! is there any thread on here that is a write up that i could go off of?

not sure whats worse: wife mad at huge repair bill on expensive truck i just bought, or fxxxing it up half way thru and getting a tow to the shop.
we are going on our first real trip with the rig at the end of the month and thats the last major issue with PM that I have ........for now.
 
I am going to attempt to either repair this myself this weekend, or pay to have it done:( I am afraid that i will break something, or it will go wrong and then I have my truck stuck in the garage at work. That will be bad come Monday. I have the o ring for the Distributor and a gasket with spark plug donuts. I have looked thru the FSM and i could not find exactly the pages that related to this job. There is a section about removing the head I am guessing that i could just follow those pages and stop when the valve cover comes off. The worst part is that the whole top of the motor is covered in a desert dust/oil mix that looks like it will take hours to clean. I don't have running water accessible where the work will take place. I am pondering brining it ti my local mechanic, but I am afraid it will cost $600!! is there any thread on here that is a write up that i could go off of?

not sure whats worse: wife mad at huge repair bill on expensive truck i just bought, or ****ing it up half way thru and getting a tow to the shop.
we are going on our first real trip with the rig at the end of the month and thats the last major issue with PM that I have ........for now.


how bad is the leak?
 
First thing I would do is take it somewhere and power hose the engine. Spray some degreaser and then do it all again. Working on mucky engines not only pisses you off but you also risk getting dirt and sand into the engine. Once that is done take a few photos of where the different bits go and then get on with it. It is not a complex job by any stretch...
 
If you have basic hand tools, this job is perfectly achievable .. Just set aside 2-3 hrs max(if your not a experienced gear monkey) and your good. Just take the air cleaner tube off, 4 bolts on throttle body (set it aside) then the valve cover gaskets.. You might as well replace the 6 spark plug grommets/seals and the pvc valve and rubber grommet..
 
how bad is the leak?
My first question too! When I did mine I learned that the bolts at the back of the cover were barely finger tight.

:doh:
 
There are a number of threads on doing this job. I recommend you do a search on 'Mud for them. They give you parts lists, all the "while you're in there's", and what else you need to do.

Take a few minutes to search it. You also need time to get more parts in. I know for a fact you need a throttle body gasket and probably some coolant hoses, and some vacuum hoses, as well as a PCV grommet and PCV valve and hose.
 
My first question too! When I did mine I learned that the bolts at the back of the cover were barely finger tight.

:doh:

Same here. My back bolts were very loose. It took me about 3 hours to do the VC gasket, dizzy O-ring, cap/rotor, spark plug tube seals, PCV grommet, and new belts.

As above, ,clean the engine first....makes you not fill up the swear jar.
 
As previously mentioned you need to clean the outside of the engine in the area you will be working. Then BEFORE you begin, check to see the condition of a couple of other things that could give you trouble. Look to see the condition of the two hoses that come off the top of the valve cover. IF they are brittle...they may break or tear when you go to remove them. Make sure you have a new PCV valve and grommet to install in the valve cover.

Also check the condition of the heater valve (located at the very back of the engine on the fire wall...just above the valve cover). IF it is brown in color, chances are it is brittle and it won't take a lot of knocking around. When removing the last spark plug wire and again when lifting the valve cover, it easy to hit the hoses attached to it. IF it breaks...then you will be in for an unexpected repair (or at the very least a 'bypass' endeavor on your hands).

The valve gasket itself is not difficult to replace, its just a big odd shaped O-ring basically. The plug seals (if old and brittle) can do anything from just fall out...to giving you fits trying to tap/pry/dig them out. So just be aware.

I'd recommend you have a few extra valve cover bolts on hand in case you drop one into the nether regions, or twist one off.

I wouldn't install the O-ring for the distributor at the work garage UNLESS you are certain of the procedure for marking the dizzy after rotating the engine to TDC on cyl. #1 and then understanding where the rotor needs to be when you reinsert it so you don't end up 180° out and not know it.

I'm not trying to dissuade you.....just suggesting you have everything you might need ON HAND and a good understanding of what it is you are going to do before you start. Only because of the time constraints and limited access to a work area.

If you have questions let us know.
 
It's a crazy looking job when you take the valve cover off. People who don't know anything mechanical will stare in wonder at you with all that oily machinery exposed.

A tough thing for me is that I generally work outside in the driveway and we get wind around here. Wind kicking up fine sand into that area is .... bad.
 
It's a crazy looking job when you take the valve cover off. People who don't know anything mechanical will stare in wonder at you with all that oily machinery exposed.

A tough thing for me is that I generally work outside in the driveway and we get wind around here. Wind kicking up fine sand into that area is .... bad.
Your High Sierra glacial/pumice dust. I got a fair amount of that in my eyes last weekend...
 
how bad is the leak?
It's bad enlightening that after a few miles up in the mountains it's leaking onto the heat shield and when you shut it down smoke comes from under the hood.
 
I will clean up the motor and see what I got to work with. I don't have a throttle body gasket, so I will order one of those. The pvc valve and hose was done when some Californication work done to get it to pass emissions a few thousand miles ago.

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IMG_2403.webp
 
Yep, that's been leaking heavily for quite some time.

What you are going to find is your Valve Cover Gasket has dried out, gotten brittle and is broken in one or more places. The new one should stop the leak (from the valve cover) 100%, but you've got some serious engine cleaning to do. Your throttle body gasket is probably metal and often times can be reused, but they are not expensive (less than $20.00) so might as well replace. Dizzy O-ring and Oil pump Cover are other areas that tend to leak oil over time, might look at them later, but most of your trouble is the VCG.
 
Round up a place to borrow a 300 lb-ft torque wrench for the main shaft bolt and do the oil pump seal and front main seal.

X2 on the heater valve (Rockauto on that one...)
 
I found the leaking dizzy o-ring created the biggest mess over time. It would drop down onto one of the belts and the belt would then help "distribute" the oil all over the place.
 
A new throttle cable probably wouldn't hurt either. With all the outer casing baked off like it is, and all the oil leak/misting under the hood, that'll all seep into the spiral winding, coat the cable inside & attract all kinds of dirt & grit to the cable. Mine was like that when I bought my rig, and it was like a whole new truck after I replaced it.
 
A new throttle cable probably wouldn't hurt either. With all the outer casing baked off like it is, and all the oil leak/misting under the hood, that'll all seep into the spiral winding, coat the cable inside & attract all kinds of dirt & grit to the cable. Mine was like that when I bought my rig, and it was like a whole new truck after I replaced it.

Mine is like that. Remember how much the throttle cable was?
 
Mine is like that. Remember how much the throttle cable was?

New OEM was $125ish. I know they can be had for less, but I was short on time so I just had my local guy order & install.
 
I am guessing that I will have some serious cleaning to do. My plan is to spray down with simple green and let it sit for a few hours. Then spray again after work and hit it with a garden hose or pressure washer. I am a bit worried to blast with and serious pressure I am thinking he wide angle pattern should work. He other alternative is rags and elbow grease which will take take days I fear.
 

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