HELP! all i did was change valve cover gasket

[reklund5]

please clarify- when you say the starter tries but the engine doesnt turn all the way over, what do you mean?

Starter function is NOT tied to the VAFM. However, the VAFM does control the fuel pump.

So, when you turn the key, does the starter engage and crank the engine? If you have a CRANK and NO START condition, we can keep looking at the VAF and the rubber accordion tube that connects it to the throttle body. ANY big Leak there and the engine will not start or run properly.

If you have a no crank/slow crank/start to crank and stop condition, we need to diagnose your starter and it's power circuit.

 

[1994LC]

I am an idiot.

I went back through all the hookups and forgot to tighten 4 nuts when it hooks up to filter cover. It then started and ran at 2000 rpm for about 5 minutes then dropped to 1400. Could I have throttle cables too tight?

Oil pressure gauge tough to fix?

 

[Malleus]

Cables: maybe.
Oil pressure gauge: is it plugged in?

 

[tech_dog]

Cables: maybe.
Oil pressure gauge: is it plugged in?

I think broken wires on the oil pressure sub harness, from inside the passenger fender to down below the heat shield, are common. The sub harness isn't available for the 94, but the 95+ fits with slightly tighter routing. I had to use one Toyota zip tie connection point instead of the two I had originally, cutting the curve a bit shorter.

I read that the 95+ sub harness doesn't have an "unnecessary" noise filter but is otherwise functionally the same. I just installed the 95+ into my 94, the connections were the same, but haven't completed the rest of the restoration and haven't started the engine to validate it works.

Part is here if you need it: 82221-60020

 

[reklund5]

Glad to hear she's up and running!

Easy to check the cables. Just unhook them from the throttle body and see what she does. If it idles normally then one is too tight.


Also- easy to connect the oil pressure sender wires backwards if not familiar.

The black connector goes on the post in the center of the pressure sensor. . The gray connector goes on the tab on the oil pressure sensor body.

 

[Shipwreck]

Agree on loosening/disconnecting the cables to see if they are artificially increasing idle speed.

You may also need to go through several start cycles before the ECM remaps the idle speed.

 

[1994LC]

Thanks for the input, the oil gauge has not worked since i bought it about 2 months ago its one of the things on the list to fix. its actually kind of a barn find, its been sitting a few years waiting for attention and i was able to convince the owner to sell it to me.

going through the most important issues first. to check for leaks i sprayed motor with engine cleaner and since then it hasnt gone over 30 mph. it idles fine and when gas pedal is pressed it seems like it chokes and almost wants to stall unless i take foot off the gas.

i plan to get new air filter, and spray the mas sensor with cleaner. any other thoughts would be appreciated.

ive learned alot from this forum and i just want to say again 'thank you' to all who've given input

 

[Malleus]

Download the 1994 service manual from the Resources section, along with the 1994 EWD, and any other pubs you like the look of while you're there.

Get a case of CRC QD Plastic Safe Contact Cleaner and clean every connector housing you can reach in the engine compartment, inside and out. Check your distributor cap and rotor, and if they don't look new, replace them, along with a cap seal. Use only Toyota parts. They last for decades, not years, and will absolutely outlast any aftermarket part you can buy anywhere.

In the future, any time you clean the engine compartment, do it with the engine running and let it run for at least 20 minutes afterwards, idling or driving, doesn't matter. I only use a GuardAir sprayer to clean the engine and engine compartment; you can get them in many places, for many prices. Buy the cheap one. I use this one:

It'll clean almost anything with just water, without spraying everything in sight. If I use degreaser and water, I can eat off of it afterwards.

 

[Mat Jadamec]

Check the vacuum hoses at all of the connection tubes for splitting and loosening.

 

[CharlieS]

Oil pressure sender may be shot too.

I've made the mistake of spraying my engine after wheeling to clean mud and it barely ran after. Stupid, I know. I used WD40 and air to dry things out. After continuing to drive it finally evaporated all the water so it ran well again.

Also Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner is fairly useless on our ('93-94) VAF sensors.

 

[1994LC]

So I’m sure you’ve all been waiting for me to post my updates lol but I put about 2 hours into it this morning and had to walk away for the day.

I put a new air filter in it and sprayed the mass air flow cleaner and then the heffer wouldn’t start at all. The starter turns over like @reklund5 described but won’t turn fully over. seeming to not be getting air. I’ve checked all connections and can’t figure it out.

Will pull it apart again in morning.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

We need to clarify some terminology:

What do you mean by "the starter turns over but won't turn fully over"?

Does the engine crank normally, i.e. the starter turns the engine over for as long as you hold the key in the start position, or does it crank for short time and stop as if something is stopping the engine from rotating?

Does the engine fire or make any attempt to start while you're cranking?

 

[1994LC]

It will turn over as long as I hold the key but it does not attempt to to start.

It acts the exact same way it did when I forgot to tighten the 4 bolts that attach MAS to intake.

 

[CharlieS]

VAF, not MAS, MAF. It matters.

 

[1994LC]

Got it

 

[1994LC]

Maybe someone can explain this one to me.
(Not a mechanic so sorry if my terminology is off)
So the cruiser would crank but not start. I took VAF out took plastic cover off again and wires were looked fine. I put it back together and tried starting it again and it fired up and seemed to idle fine and sound good.
I then realized that I forgot to plug it back in. So I turned it off and plugged VAF in then tried to start and it cranks but won’t turn over.

Do I order a VAF? Is it the cables?

 

[gorbilax]

It certainly sounds based on those symptoms like you have a short to ground inside your VAF that's killing your EFI. If you have a multimeter, check the pins on the vaf for a short to ground. You probably have to clean up your solder joints. I would get some solder wick braid and remove all that solder entirely and start over.

Edit -

I’m reaching back in the memory banks here, but when I had an issue with this years ago, when the short was present. I believe the CEL also wouldn’t light up during the bulb check when you first turn the key to the on position - which is what started me down the path of troubleshooting the EFI/ECU. After unplugging my vaf, and turning the key to “on”, I saw a check engine light again, which got me looking in the right place.

 

[CharlieS]

Maybe someone can explain this one to me.
(Not a mechanic so sorry if my terminology is off)
So the cruiser would crank but not start. I took VAF out took plastic cover off again and wires were looked fine. I put it back together and tried starting it again and it fired up and seemed to idle fine and sound good.
I then realized that I forgot to plug it back in. So I turned it off and plugged VAF in then tried to start and it cranks but won’t turn over.

Do I order a VAF? Is it the cables?

Explain to you? My understanding is that when you unplug certain sensors the engine computer (ECM) "sees" this condition and then ignores sensor input, dropping to a base fuel and timing map that ignores sensor readings. If I recall correctly this is called open loop (as opposed to closed loop where the ECM uses all sensors to determine the correct fuel and timing map).

As such, this doesn't mean the VAF is the specific issue.

There are tests in the FSM to verify correct operation of a VAF meter. Your best bet is to run those tests.

 

[FMC80]

Like others have said, get a multimeter and shoot the pins in the VAF with the baffle open/closed and record the readings.


I remember reading in the past that the VAF requires precise soldering skills, and if you mess with the windings, it’ll need recalibration.

The VAF I mentioned above requires multiple adjustments through Bavarian Restoration to get my cruiser running smoothly.

Best to get a known-good, spare VAF.

 

[1994LC]

Does anyone have a good VAF for sale? i checked the codes and i got back 3, one for main O2 sensor one for air intake temperature and one for airflow sensor.
VAF should at least take care of the last one id think.