Improved Valve Cover Bolt Design - P/N 90080 - 10330 (2 Viewers)

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TNFZJ

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I recently learned that Toyota has another valve cover bolt that can be used on our 1FZ-FE engines. I was told it has been used on a variety of Toyota engines to include the 2UZ-FE. The improvement looks to be in the addition of a washer with rubber to increase the resistance to vibrations. I have yet to install these on my 1FZ, but will be doing so in the near future.

P/N 90080–10330

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And what problem is this solution going to address?

The 80 valve cover has metal ridges that bottom out on the head so as to compress the gasket 'just enough'. So, once the valve cover has metal to metal onto the head, I'm not sure what the rubber on the bolt heads will achieve other than something else to perish and need replacing...

I have replaced the gasket on our 80 twice (one just recently) in its 27 years of ownership (since new). So, an average of 13 years per gasket change.

cheers,
george.
 
Well put George.
 
I was looking for something like this when I replaced my valve cover gasket. I planned to paint the cover and wanted the rubber washer there to protect the paint when torquing the bolts. I ended up not painting anything and just used factory bolts but this might be a good option for those who spent the time painting or powder coating.

Torque spec for a 2uz is 53 inch lbs so these are a good fit for a 1fz.
 
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These style valve cover bolts with cushion washers are standard issue on Hondas since the 80s. I believe it provides a more even clamping on the valve cover versus one with out, it could also acts as a seal to prevent oil weep on from the bolts. Plus, as @ERG80 pointed out, they help protect the valve cover’s paint or powder coating from chipping at the bolt-down points. I would give them I try since my valve cover bolts are rusty. Thanks @TNFZJ
 
The rubber is there to seal the bolt against a hole that'd otherwise allow oil to blow out. On the 1FZ, the sealing rubber gasket is inside of the bolt circle, so no sealing is needed. The rubber won't do anything to keep it from backing out and using these solves nothing.
Exactly right. Picture without gasket installed. You can see the lips/ridges where the valve cover bolts live. The bolts are on the outside of the gasket and the lips/ridges allow the cover to bottom out onto the head with appropriate pressure applied to the gasket.

I think in this case that Mr T kinda/sorta had a good idea what was being engineered.

cheers,
george.

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100 series gasket is inboard of the bolts too. It doesn’t have the metal to metal hard stop like on the 80’s cover.
 
those bolts will need to be retightened after awhile because the rubber will relax. 5vz uses the similar bolts.
 
@TNFZJ : What are the lengths of the threaded portion of each bolt (?identical to the original) with/without the rubber washer (grommet), thickness of the grommet?

If the main concern is damage to a new coating, another route is to have the valve cover Cerakoted which should not be damaged by the originally spec'd bolts. Cerakote, IME, is superior to powder coat or paint for a valve cover.

FWIW
 

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