- Thread starter
- #61
You bought the Trail Tailor truck that was on BaT?
UZJ100 to UZJ105: SAS build
- Thread starter UZJ105
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I did purchase the Trail Tailor truck on BAT.. It is in the garage getting baselined.. it drove home, just "darty". It is in good hands and will be used in the manner in which it was intended/built for. I am not new to Cruisers, just a newbie to the 100 series.
Don't want to sidetrack this thread but my question was answered. I will order Bora hub centric spacers later, Thank you for the tip. For temp purposes and to baseline my truck i ordered some 2.5" generic hub centric spacer. i just needed something to get it rolling again. I can tell you 2" hub centric spacers will hit the lockout/hub stud nuts which is why i was asking. Personally I would love to widen the axle later. I can start my own thread, don't want to clog up the 100 series section. I already do that with the 45 section. Thank you all for sharing the parts list on page one! REALLY saved my bacon.
Don't want to sidetrack this thread but my question was answered. I will order Bora hub centric spacers later, Thank you for the tip. For temp purposes and to baseline my truck i ordered some 2.5" generic hub centric spacer. i just needed something to get it rolling again. I can tell you 2" hub centric spacers will hit the lockout/hub stud nuts which is why i was asking. Personally I would love to widen the axle later. I can start my own thread, don't want to clog up the 100 series section. I already do that with the 45 section. Thank you all for sharing the parts list on page one! REALLY saved my bacon.
- Thread starter
- #64
Was able to get the steering box fitted, t-case back together, and the axle painted over the weekend. Trying to work out the steering shaft is eating up a lot of time. I see @saucebox has spent some time wrestling with this.
The issue we are running into is that it appears that it requires three joints in order to work. The problem is the 3 joints create too much play. There is already a factory joint on the cabin side of the firewall. The factory shaft will not move outboard enough to get it inline with the 80 steering box. *wish I had take some pictures of the shafts.
Two options in consideration:
1. cut a bigger hole in the firewall to move the shaft outboard and keep the shaft in place with a bearing. This would eliminate the need for a 3rd shaft (in theory)
2. go the 3-joint route and secure the shaft to the coil bucket or firewall with a bearing or a heim
@tornadoalleycruiser what did Jason do on the TT truck? Is steering clean? Would it be possible to take some pictures?
The issue we are running into is that it appears that it requires three joints in order to work. The problem is the 3 joints create too much play. There is already a factory joint on the cabin side of the firewall. The factory shaft will not move outboard enough to get it inline with the 80 steering box. *wish I had take some pictures of the shafts.
Two options in consideration:
1. cut a bigger hole in the firewall to move the shaft outboard and keep the shaft in place with a bearing. This would eliminate the need for a 3rd shaft (in theory)
2. go the 3-joint route and secure the shaft to the coil bucket or firewall with a bearing or a heim
@tornadoalleycruiser what did Jason do on the TT truck? Is steering clean? Would it be possible to take some pictures?
Yep, hub-centric. Designed for the 100 series, just ENORMOUS haha
Hmm. Just two joints for me. The top joint does occasionally ding against the DT header (lightly), and I'm sure being that close to heat will wear it out sooner, but no issues so far.
I just welded an 80 shaft to a 100 shaft at the right length. Hard to get pictures of though, also would like to see TT's solve.
will provide pictures tonight. But short answer, heim/bearing on spring bucket moving it over from column.
- Thread starter
- #68
So I'm clear, two joints on the engine bay side of the firewall or just one joint? When I say three joints, I am counting the factory 100 joint on the cabin side of the firewall.
You have to be careful about steering shaft angles or your steering will feel horrible. Same principle as a driveshaft.
www.summitracing.com
mount that on the firewall to support the shaft, use a prius mid shaft with the CV on the column end and everything will likely bolt up. If you need slightly more length, use the 80 series end on the prius shaft.
ididit MSD52130 ididit Steering Shaft Support Bearings | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - ididit Steering Shaft Support Bearings with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Steering Shaft Support Bearings at Summit Racing.
mount that on the firewall to support the shaft, use a prius mid shaft with the CV on the column end and everything will likely bolt up. If you need slightly more length, use the 80 series end on the prius shaft.
One at the box itself (factory 80 joint) and another at the firewall (factory 100 joint). It works, but I'd bet serious money that @tornadoalleycruiser's will be the better solve.
Edit: there's a 1" body lift in there in my case. Shouldn't affect angles too terribly much, but it may be different than yours.
FYI, the bearing that comes in that ididit flange is not sealed like in the picture. I ordered a FAG sealed bearing of the same dimensions. I got the bearing from ebay
Here is the best "u joint angles for dummies" explanation I have run across. This is often why people driveshafts vibrate and their steering feels notchy/touchy when the angles dont jive. Keep in mind a cv operates differently and splits the angle.
- Thread starter
- #73
I think you have mentioned this to me before, but now that we're at that step, this is making more sense. Are all Prius shafts the same or is there a year range I should look for?You have to be careful about steering shaft angles or your steering will feel horrible. Same principle as a driveshaft.
ididit MSD52130 ididit Steering Shaft Support Bearings | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - ididit Steering Shaft Support Bearings with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Steering Shaft Support Bearings at Summit Racing.
mount that on the firewall to support the shaft, use a prius mid shaft with the CV on the column end and everything will likely bolt up. If you need slightly more length, use the 80 series end on the prius shaft.
That's silly to reference it that way. Ignore the joint in the column that allows you to tilt, it's part of the column.
From the firewall penetration to the box, how many u-joints are you planning? If it's two, then that's extremely typical and requires no additional support. My truck has two u-joints in the steering shaft between the box and the column on the firewall, just about every truck does.
Like this, from a 40 I converted years ago, but same concept as you're trying to achieve:
- Thread starter
- #75
The 100 is completely different. There is not a carrier bearing in the firewall as appears in the picture you posted. There is a large hole in the firewall, which allows the shaft to move around. This wasn't an issue when it was linked directly to the factory rack. I'll likely go @peacesells63 route since he seems to have successfully addressed it.
Hey! I recognize that truck!
There wasn't on the 40 either. Have to add a carrier bearing, again, not atypical.
Point is the ujoint in the column doesn't count as far as figuring out the shaft geometry goes.
Put the carrier bearing on the firewall with a plate or whatever, pointing it towards the steering box as much as you can while making sure the tilt function of the column still operates smoothly at all angles. Then a two ujoint shaft connects the column at the firewall to the box.
interesting, my 45 has the SAME exact slip going to a 60 box. I'm gonna guess there is a bearing in the column like we do on fj40s when we convert. I can take the engine cover off later and try to get better pictures. Sorry I was trying to calibrate the speedometer and the engine was hot.
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- #79
Thanks for sharing @tornadoalleycruiser. I was wondering how he addressed steering since he's made no mention of it anywhere.
- Thread starter
- #80
Picked up the front & rear 3rds from East Coast Gear Supply this morning. They turned them around in just over a week. Now running 4.88s.
Harrop e-lock on the front & factory e-lock on the rear, making this UZJ105 3x locked.
Harropp
Harrop e-lock on the front & factory e-lock on the rear, making this UZJ105 3x locked.
Harropp
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