UZJ100 LX470 brake overhaul and handbrake upgrade (1 Viewer)

[Skruf]

Hi All

So I'm slowing working my way through baselining my 400,000km 99 LX470 and I'm now at the brakes.

I considered getting braided SS lines but compared to the price I can pick up factory lines I just can't justify it. I'm sure they're better but I cant see there being much flex in brand new factory lines and if I have to replace them in 5 years I'm still ahead financially.

In deciding what to replace for the handbrake and being lazy, I decided to duplicate the Terrain Tamer Handbrake kit which as far as I can see if just factory parts with a price premium.

Everything you see above is listed below. The quantities listed below are to do both rear wheels for the handbrake and all 4 brakes for the brake lines.


SPRING, COMPRESSION(FOR PARKING BRAKE SHOE STRUT)

Part number: 9050414002 - #4

SPRING, BRAKE SHOE HOLD DOWN​

Part number: 9050116053 - #8​

SPRING, TENSION, NO.3(FOR PARKING BRAKE SHOE RETURN)​

Part number: 9050612068 - #4​

SPRING, TENSION(FOR PARKING BRAKE SHOE RETURN, FRONT)​

Part number: 9050720016 - #4​

SPRING, TENSION(FOR PARKING BRAKE SHOE RETURN REAR)​

Part number: 9050723014 - #4​

SPRING, TENSION, NO.1(FOR PARKING BRAKE SHOE RETURN)​

Part number: 9050612029 - #4​

SPRING, TENSION(FOR PARKING BRAKE BELL CRANK),RH/LH​

Part number: 9050620033 - #4​

SPRING, TENSION(FOR PARKING BRAKE BELL CRANK),RH/LH​

Part number: 9050620033 - #4​

​

WASHER, C(FOR REAR BRAKE)​

Part number: 9021304001 - #4​

​

WASHER, C(FOR PARKING BRAKE SHOE LEVER)​

Part number: 9021307018 - #4​

​

RING, E(FOR REAR BRAKE)​

Part number: 9021306013 - #4​

​

PIN(FOR PARKING BRAKE BELL CRANK)​

Part number: 9024907074 - #4​

​

PIN(FOR PARKING BRAKE BELL CRANK)​

Part number: 9024908075 - #4​

​

CUP, BRAKE SHOE HOLD DOWN​

Part number: 4744930030 – 8​

​

CUP, BRAKE SHOE HOLD DOWN​

Part number: 4744940010 - #8​

​

PIN, SHOE HOLD DOWN SPRING(FOR PARKING BRAKE)​

Part number: 4744750010 - #4​

​

PIN, SHOE HOLD DOWN SPRING(FOR FRONT BRAKE)​

Part number: 4744730020 - #4​

​

CABLE ASSY, PARKING BRAKE, NO.1​

Part number: 4641060721 #1​

​

Then add the the flexible brake hoses for the Disc brakes:

6 Hoses total

HOSE, FLEXIBLE, NO.1(FOR FRONT Left and Right)​

Part number: 9094702A21 #1​

Part number: 9094702A27 #1​

HOSE, FLEXIBLE(FOR REAR BRAKE TUBE, NO.2) Left Rear​

Part number: 9094702A10 #1​

HOSE, FLEXIBLE(FOR REAR BRAKE TUBE, NO.2) Right Rear​

Part number: 9094702A09 #1​

HOSE, FLEXIBLE(FOR REAR BRAKE TUBE) Center​

Part number: 9094702A13 - (01/98 - 07/99)​

or

Part number: 9094702B59 (07/99 - 08 2002)​

HOSE, FLEXIBLE(FOR REAR BRAKE TUBE) Center​

Part number: 9094702F31 #1​

CLIP​

Part number: 9046808035 #8​

GASKET(FOR BRAKE ACTUATOR),RH/LH​

Part number: 9043010074 (98 - 05/2002) #5​

Or

Part number: 4738950020 (05/2002 - 08/2002) #5​

GASKET(FOR BRAKE ACTUATOR),RH/LH​

Part number: 9043010074 - #4​

Finally -

OR

I'll also get some new discs but I'm sure you can source theses easily. In researching what to get it became clear that drilled/slotted rotors are mostly just a way to extract cash from you so I'll be buying good quality solid rotors (Just my opinion)

Hope all this helps

 

[2001LC]

OEM flexible brake lines, are great and last for many years. Inspecting lines, "usually" reveals any damage or bubble before loss of fluid the pressure.
Braided SS do not flex, which give a very sensitive and rock hard brake pedal feel. They've little chance of busting, so consider safer. Most braided SS line, banjo do not lock on caliper or line on the knuckle. This can result, in loosening the banjo bolt.

If one brake line, leaks. Only caliper(s) in single line to rear 98-99) it services, is affected. But fluid will leak out, faster when key on brake pedal pressed. Once fluid drops to low in reservoir, pressure is lost as are brakes.

E-brake has many parts. Most will not need replacing. Inspection is key to which parts are needed.
Most common replaced parts, in order:

1. Drum (rotor)
2. Shoes.
3. Stopper & lock nut. (corrosion related)
4. Cable #2 (frozen adjustor, corrosion related)
5. Cable #1 (stuck cable, console cup holder spillage of drinks related)
6. Any other parts, are almost always related to corrosion. Mostly if, bell housing boot seal broken.

 

[Skruf]

OEM flexible brake lines, are great and last for many years. Inspecting lines, "usually" reveals any damage or bubble before loss of fluid the pressure.
Braided SS do not flex, which give a very sensitive and rock hard brake pedal feel. They've little chance of busting, so consider safer. Most braided SS line, banjo do not lock on caliper or line on the knuckle. This can result, in loosening the banjo bolt.

If one brake line, leaks. Only caliper(s) in single line to rear 98-99) it services, is affected. But fluid will leak out, faster when key on brake pedal pressed. Once fluid drops to low in reservoir, pressure is lost as are brakes.

E-brake has many parts. Most will not need replacing. Inspection is key to which parts are needed.
Most common replaced parts, in order:

1. Drum (rotor)
2. Shoes.
3. Stopper & lock nut. (corrosion related)
4. Cable #2 (frozen adjustor, corrosion related)
5. Cable #1 (stuck cable, console cup holder spillage of drinks related)
6. Any other parts, are almost always related to corrosion. Mostly if, bell housing boot seal broken.

You bring up some good points. Perhaps I am overdoing it with the handbrake parts.

Ill stick with shoes and drum and see how I go

 

[willyroo]

Mate a vote here for the dogbones. My previous 100 series had crap handbrakes, got my indie to put one in and it completely transformed the beast. Next service I'll get one organised for the LX.

Just like the 80 series, the 100 series has rubbish handbraking:

 

[2001LC]

I've heard about 'Dogbone", but I've never tried them. Had, the same indie shop adjusted E-brakes before install of Dogbone. Or install any other parts, with Dogbone?

 

[dogdaysindurham]

I went with the upgraded dog bones too. The refresh is certainly worth it in my case, since the components had rusted being an Ohio vehicle originally.

 

[2001LC]

Dogbone do they actually help Or are they snake oil?

I ask, because I find the E-brakes after restoring to factory spec, with any factory parts that may be needed. Are effective!
But they're not great a stopping a 3 ton vehicle over 5 MPH, with power to driveline and still in gear.

The acid test:
Properly restored E-brake. Test as to effectiveness. Than install the Dogbone. Re test effectiveness.
Anyone done this?

 

[hoser]

I think it is meant to be a cost effective, interim fix vs a fully restored e-brake.

 

[SteveH]

After extensive adjusting of my factory e-brake, it puts a death-grip on the axle. My shoes are definitely worn (maybe 1/3 pad is gone). I can't see how this dogbone changes any geometry enough to make a significant difference in braking power.

 

[hoser]

I don't quite understand it either. The guy in the video says it increases brake shoe surface area but I don't think increased surface area increases braking force.

Edit: I'll have to take a closer look next time I have it all apart... hardly ever.

 

[2001LC]

So video seems clear. Dogbone a little long, to make-up for old worn out parts.

I've been wondering

There's a Shim, I've been wonder about its gap affect. In that, excessive gap, "may" reduce pounds of pull at handle, delivery to shoes/drum. I'm not saying it does, just that I'm wondering about it. Toyota has multiple (5) thickness from .3mm to .9mm, we're to use a specific thickness to achieve a gap <0.25mm.

How many, have ever even checked the gap. I've doubt, any shop does.

 

[hoser]

Here's another interesting handbrake idea/hack. It just changes the cam at the lever to reduce the throw. Which could help reduce the frequency of adjusting the E-brakes. My e-brake is fine after I adjust them but it only lasts 4-6 months and then I run out of handbrake lever room (tops out).

 

[uHu]

I've tried those longer dogbones, and they do have some problematic side effects.
I got a reputable kit from Oz. The dogbones were so long that I couldn't fit new brake shoes in there, no space. So I cut down the length a bit, so that the shoes would fit inside the drum. Next problem was that the longer "bones" pushed the top of the shoes out of it's seat, so that the plate on the top bolt could not hold them in. I.e. that the washer/plate was too small to retain the shoes. So, new, bigger plates are required too. And all it does is that you can have the adjuster at the bottom between the shoes at it's minimum, instead of a few turns tighter (i.e. longer).

I actually tried running the longer bones without a bigger retaining plate at the top, hoping that the springs would keep them in place. They didn't. The shoes jumped out, came askew and made a mess. And a bigger mess when trying to get the drum off.

 

[GuitarsandMopars]

I considered getting braided SS lines but compared to the price I can pick up factory lines I just can't justify it. I'm sure they're better but I cant see there being much flex in brand new factory lines and if I have to replace them in 5 years I'm still ahead financially.

My understanding about stainless steel brake lines is that they only provide improved performance when your brake fluid is very hot. Otherwise, the rubber lines don't expand much. For performance cars, they are only needed for racing. I'm not sure if off roading or towing results in similar levels of heat. I've also read that you have a greater risk of kinks and connection failures with stainless steel.