Upper Control Arms / Bushing too loose

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Someone hasn't had their coffee yet.

Well, it makes about as much sense as leaving the bushings loose in the control arms, or using bubble gum or elmers glue to secure them. The rubber in the bushing is part of the suspension SYSTEM, and they need to be secured in position. Otherwise, you might as well just leave the bolts torqued at 20 pounds/feet? I have never measured it, but I am pretty sure that the OEM fitment is about 0.005"+ ? I have been press-fitting certain parts together on newspaper printing presses for about 35 years, and I am sure these are not designed to be loose or lightly secured.
 
Last edited:
About ANY aftermarket bushing will outlast/outperform OEM.

I have always gone OEM; however I am game for a test to put this arguement to rest. What brand aftermarket do you want to test and I will put OEM on one side and aftermarket on the other and do a real world test.
 
I would rather have OEM style rubber bushings than aftermarket poly bushings. Poly bushes are stiff and won't flex as well and will also transfer more vibrations to the cabin than the rubber bushings. If the truck gets used in high flex situations frequently the poly bushings will wear out faster than the rubber too.
 
upper

4870260031 upper control arm bushing toyota part number. about $25 each

partsoug says same as FEbest rubber bushing TAB087. about $5 each.

lower

4870260040 lower control arm bushing.
partsoug says same as FEbest rubber bushing TAB098
or RBI
T25FJ801

 
I could probably get you on the phone with a Toyota master mechanic here, he knows 80’s. Call me if you want me to contact him.

thx Kelly, appreciate that, I think I have it sorted now, time will tell if it does not hold but at this point I am not worried about it.
 
thx Kelly, appreciate that, I think I have it sorted now, time will tell if it does not hold but at this point I am not worried about it.
thx Kelly, appreciate that, I think I have it sorted now, time will tell if it does not hold but at this point I am not worried about it.

So, Gorilly Glue or melted coat hangers?
 
I've seen this on lower arms. Mic the bushing and it's probably under size. Return it to the dealer and just get another one.

interesting....
 
About ANY aftermarket bushing will outlast/outperform OEM.
Not quite. My MAF rubber bushings literally cracked and fell apart with less than 10k on them. I ordered Metal Tech poly bushings to replace the MAF junk but have not had the time to swap out yet. Hopefully metal tech makes a bushing that can last more than 10k.
 
inkpot I don't appreciate your sarcasm, it is neither helpful nor warranted. I find your tone in this thread to be worthless. You have made your point, move on.

I thought maybe it would get a few more potential inexpensive solutions from more Mudders, but I guess I failed. I'm surprised that nobody came up with price and availability for new OEM arms. Used are probably $30-50? Don't have any right now to test, but shimstock/feelergauge material might work, but it might be tricky to get it to stay in position. I really like the idea of cutting thru the ring with a hacksaw/bandsaw and drawing the ring together with a C clamp, then welding the cut closed. Might need a couple of these to draw the ring down tight enough to hold the bushing properly. There are probably more good ideas out there?
 
There's about zero side force on the bushings, it's all torsion and front to back. As long as the bushing isn't rattling around in the eye, there's not much risk of anything going wrong. I like Tool R Us's idea of tacking the bushing sleeve in place the best (if replacing the arm isn't in the cards), but as long as it doesn't flop around just about anything would work. Obviously if there's significant play you'd want to replace the arm or do surgery on it, but I don't think that's what he's looking at here. Slicing the eye and shrinking it is an innovative approach, if it were warranted. Might be tough to get the right ID, or it might work easily. You could also try shrinking the eye a tiny bit by heating and quenching it. It works for dents in body panels, who knows? I don't know if the metal properties would change enough to be an issue. Bodymen shrink stretched panels with a heat gun and wet rag, doesn't need to be super hot. Hell, mechanics burn bushings out all the time, never heard of any repercussions.

I had a loose bushing in one of my (brand new) front control arms, after talking with the manufacturer I just installed it and a few months later it didn't move at all. I'd think a rear upper control arm would be even less of an issue. Worse case scenario, it causes problems and he replaces the arm. I doubt any nuns are in danger. :hillbilly:

Weird, Inkpot, I don't see your original post, I guess it got :censor:?
 
Last edited:
Use a spring-loaded center punch to dimple around the inside of the control arm. The metal around the dimple raises, creating an interference fit. Assuming, of course, that it's only barely a loose fit currently.
 
Welding a single stringer bead will shrink the metal by about 0.010. You could have had it done by now.
 
Pretty sure he finished the job days ago, we're just having fun now. :D
 
Last edited:
Double post. :frown:
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom