Upper and lower control arm bolt and nut part numbers. (1 Viewer)

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Hey all, I'm replacing all the bushings on rear control arms, panhard and drag link. The FSM says to use new fasteners.

I've looked at partsouq.com and megazip.net and can't seem to find them. Also searched on mud but "control arms" arms seems me off in multiple directions.

Can someone point me where to look these up?

 

[Broski]

Well, it certainly can’t hurt to replace them reused mine several times

 

[sunrk]

The arms are called 'arm assy'. The bushes are called 'bush sub-assy'.

Upper rear control arm bushes are 48702-60030, lower ones are 48702-60040. The rear panhard bushes are 48706-60040.

I found one revision of the upper rear control arm bushes being 48702-60031.

The upper and lower rear control arm bolts are 90105-18006. Nuts are 90170-18007, washers are 90201-19011.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

The arms are called 'arm assy'. The bushes are called 'bush sub-assy'.

Upper rear control arm bushes are 48702-60030, lower ones are 48702-60040. The rear panhard bushes are 48706-60040.

I found one revision of the upper rear control arm bushes being 48702-60031.

For the bolts, they are 90105-18006. Nuts are 90170-18007, washers are 90201-19011.

Great thank you. I'm assuming nuts and bolts are the same for all?

 

[sunrk]

Great thank you. I'm assuming nuts and bolts are the same for all?

Toyodiy indicates they are. Do you need fasteners for the rear panhard rod as well?

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Toyodiy indicates they are. Do you need fasteners for the rear panhard rod as well?

Great! Yes I do. I'm replacing all my bushings

 

[Shipwreck]

If you want to save some coin, and your hardware is not totally rusted, you can reuse the originals as long as the little nubs on the inner face of the bolt flange is still intact. If someone has removed the bolt by spinning the bolt while holding the nut in place, then you may need to replace the bolt.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

If you want to save some coin, and your hardware is not totally rusted, you can reuse the originals as long as the little nubs on the inner face of the bolt flange is still intact. If someone has removed the bolt by spinning the bolt while holding the nut in place, then you may need to replace the bolt.

That's a good idea. In reading about this in other threads it seems the nubs are too help avoid spinning. I also read that is recommended to tighten on the flat washer side to protect the nubs.

In the end, I would like to replace the hardware just for piece of mind.

 

[sunrk]

That's a good idea. In reading about this in other threads it seems the nubs are too help avoid spinning. I also read that is recommended to tighten on the flat washer side to protect the nubs.

In the end, I would like to replace the hardware just for piece of mind.

I don't recall re the rear control arms, but for the front radius arms there are locking nuts and locking bolts (indicated by four little 'teeth' on the mating face of either the bolt or the nut) and that determines whether the nut or the bolt gets tightened while the other part (with the 'teeth') is meant to 'lock in'.

Also use anti-sieze on the threads since they are not fasteners where a thread locker (and/or just a light coat of oil) needs to be used. Reduce the torque spec by about 20 to 25 percent if you do coat the threads in anti-sieze.

Re the rear panhard fasteners, they are 90119-18001 for the lower bolt (into axle housing) 90105-18007 + 90201-19011 + 90170-18007 for bolt/washer/nut.

 

[Broski]

I don't recall re the rear control arms, but for the front radius arms there are locking nuts and locking bolts (indicated by four little 'teeth' on the mating face of either the bolt or the nut) and that determines whether the nut or the bolt gets tightened while the other part (with the 'teeth') is meant to 'lock in'.

Also use anti-sieze on the threads since they are not fasteners where a thread locker (and/or just a light coat of oil) needs to be used. Reduce the torque spec by about 20 to 25 percent if you do coat the threads in anti-sieze.

Re the rear panhard fasteners, they are 90119-18001 for the lower bolt (into axle housing) 90105-18007 + 90201-19011 + 90170-18007 for bolt/washer/nut.

It’s the nuts that have the teeth and only the bolts should be turned

 

[jonheld]

Hey all, I'm replacing all the bushings on rear control arms, panhard and drag link. The FSM says to use new fasteners.

I've looked at partsouq.com and megazip.net and can't seem to find them. Also searched on mud but "control arms" arms seems me off in multiple directions.

Can someone point me where to look these up?

I replaced all suspension bushings front and rear about 3 years ago. While they might "look good" while in place, once they were pressed out, there was visible wear/damage to all of them. Changed the "feel" of the truck.
And yes, I replaced ALL hardware with new OEM as spec'd by the FSM.

 

[Shipwreck]

It’s the nuts that have the teeth and only the bolts should be turned

Yes, for the front radius arm bolts only.

In the rear, the bolts have the toothed flange. I wish Mr T would have made things consistent, but I think the space constrictions next to the diff requires a different orientation up front.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

I replaced all suspension bushings front and rear about 3 years ago. While they might "look good" while in place, once they were pressed out, there was visible wear/damage to all of them. Changed the "feel" of the truck.
And yes, I replaced ALL hardware with new OEM as spec'd by the FSM.

View attachment 3850783

Thank you Jon, I found it! I was looking at rear axle housing, I never thought to look at the rear shock absorber schematic. Rear Shock Absorber

Thank you all for your responses. I will link this in my build thread so others can find the information you all posted.