Updated stereo install, JVC KW-M788BH 6.8" touchscreen w/steering wheel controls (yes another audio upgrade thread!) (1 Viewer)

[sbman]

My Joying 7" finally died and it's time for an upgrade. honestly the stereo in the cruiser has never sounded very good.

The install will include:

• JVC KW-M788BH double din head unit
• Polk Audio DB651 6.5" co-axial door speakers
• Pioneer TS-G1045R 4" dash speakers
• Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-8 Punch 8" shallow mount sub woofer
• Stinger Audio MT7001 Monoblock Sub Amp
• Use steering wheel cruise control buttons for stereo
• Various adapters

The goal is minimal intrusion into factory wiring (no cutting) and to re-use as much wiring as possible.

First up was speakers since I had those on hand for the front at least. I bought them a long while back and had never installed them.

The 6.5" Polk Audio DB651 go in the doors in the stock location with minimal modifications.

First up a spacer to get it away from the window track:

I have access to a laser cutter, so I cut these out of 5/16" thick acrylic. Holes are clearance size for the mounting screws. I used some hot glue to hold them in place for assembly, they will be held down properly by other hardware.

Next up was to drill holes for the mounting hardware. This had to go through the door card since the speakers needed to be spaced further out than the door card sits. But how to get those holes in the correct locations? Drilling templates in acrylic on the laser again. Easy.

Attach X shaped alignment spacer to door, align door panel, align cutting template with inner alignment spacer, drill in holes.

Now a final spacer in thinner 1/8" acrylic finishes off the fabrication work. This spacer has holes in it for the speakers themselves.

I guess I didn't get a picture of the 1/8" external spacer, but it looks much like the factory ring I was test fitting here. I cut a counter sink in the acrylic spacer and used #12 x 1" sheet metal, flush screws to secure the spacers. Drilled the holes for the speaker all the way through the door card and mounted using the provided screws with the speakers. A harness adapter to plug into the factory wiring.

End result. Yes it clears the dash by about 1/8". Just barely but it does not touch.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

What depth are the 6 1/2 speakers ?

 

[sbman]

What depth are the 6 1/2 speakers ?

1-11/16", top mount depth. I have plenty of room behind them.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

1-11/16", top mount depth. I have plenty of room behind them.

Would you consider making another set of spacers?

 

[sbman]

Would you consider making another set of spacers?

I could probably do that. I'm out of the acrylic I used for it and I'll be back up near the plastics store next week. I use scrap/cutoff materials for this type of thing so I'll just have to see what's in the scrap bin next week. Would you want a set for the same exact speakers or something different? The specific spacing is a balancing act between the window glass channel and the front mounted grill clearance against the dash board. I drove the screws from the speakers clear into the sheet metal of the door so they are securely mounted.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Cool. I have a different set of speakers they may be to big ill post some pictures and the specs.
Thanks
Tommy

 

[sbman]

Cool. I have a different set of speakers they may be to big ill post some pictures and the specs.
Thanks
Tommy

It's really the mounting hole size that would determine if they will fit through the sheet metal as a first pass. Secondly, the depth of course. Third the height above the surface that the grill/cover extends.

 

[sbman]

For the wiring, I wanted to understand how the existing factory system was wired up. The EWD is full of options my vehicle doesn't have, with little asterisk notes about what isn't present. I decided to make a cleaner schematic by removing all the stuff that isn't actually present. I have the 6 speaker, separate amp system, no sub woofer, no CD changer.

This cleans things up a lot. A ton of unused connectors are in the truck related to audio speaker options that were not installed (were they dealer options?). R1A is not used. R3B is not used. BN1, BR1, W5, W6, all not used, but I believe they are all present on the vehicle for 96 and 97, at least the part numbers do not show any differences in the wiring harness based on audio options. The entire stereo 'seperate amp' wiring hookup is on connector R2 which runs line level, shielded signals to the amp plugged in at S12B. All speakers are connected to the amp on S11A. The optional sub woofer amp (mounted rear passenger quarter panel) is connected at connector W6 running speaker level inputs to it The woofer speaker then plugs in via connector W5, also in the passenger rear quarter.

The front speakers are also connected to R1A with the dash and door speakers in parallel, and the rear door speakers and rear roof speakers in parallel connected to R3B.

So if you are hooking up a harness to R1A and R3B (in the dash at the stereo), you should unplug S11A and S12B from the internal amp (behind the right dash speaker, on top of the ECU) so you aren't feeding power into either amp in reverse. I'd read you needed to do that but didn't fully understand why until decoding the wiring diagram, basically the stereo connector speaker wires are also connected to the amp so if you hook up both, you've got two amps outputting the same speaker wires.

There should also be connectors in the lower rear quarters for the roof speakers (that I don't have). The speakers and harness going to the roof would not be present on mine since I didn't have that option.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Would you prefer me to personal message you the pics and details of the speakers I have. Don't want get your tech thread jammed up with my junk.
Tommt

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Toyota mostly built one wiring harness for all of the 80's, very few differences regardless of the options that was sold. (this also means that you likely have the wiring and plugs for heated seats!)

So, you have the wiring to bypass the amp already installed in the dash Just use the right plug.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

It's really the mounting hole size that would determine if they will fit through the sheet metal as a first pass. Secondly, the depth of course. Third the height above the surface that the grill/cover extends.

Just measured mounting depth mine are 2 1/2 deep lol

 

[sbman]

Just measured mounting depth mine are 2 1/2 deep lol

I don't think those will fit between the dashboard side and the window track when the door is closed, even without a grill! You need something more shallow.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I don't think those will fit between the dashboard side and the window track when the door is closed, even without a grill! You need something more shallow.

Yeah for sure

 

[sbman]

Created a wiring diagram for the install.

From dash connectors to a Scosche TA-02B kit to the JVC harness.

Harness all made up. Power jacks for the rear and front cameras, extra connector to run to connection points on the chassis.

The JVC is shallower than the Joying unit was, but the same OEM Toyota bracket will fit on the JVC as well.

Installed on the JVC unit. Wired steering wheel remote converter mounted on the extra space behind the shallow unit.

 

[Malleus]

My Joying 7" finally died and it's time for an upgrade. honestly the stereo in the cruiser has never sounded very good.

The install will include:

• JVC KW-M788BH double din head unit
• Polk Audio DB651 6.5" co-axial door speakers
• Pioneer TS-G1045R 4" dash speakers
• Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-8 Punch 8" shallow mount sub woofer
• Stinger Audio MT7001 Monoblock Sub Amp
• Use steering wheel cruise control buttons for stereo
• Various adapters

The goal is minimal intrusion into factory wiring (no cutting) and to re-use as much wiring as possible.

First up was speakers since I had those on hand for the front at least. I bought them a long while back and had never installed them.

The 6.5" Polk Audio DB651 go in the doors in the stock location with minimal modifications.

First up a spacer to get it away from the window track:

I have access to a laser cutter, so I cut these out of 5/16" thick acrylic. Holes are clearance size for the mounting screws. I used some hot glue to hold them in place for assembly, they will be held down properly by other hardware.

Next up was to drill holes for the mounting hardware. This had to go through the door card since the speakers needed to be spaced further out than the door card sits. But how to get those holes in the correct locations? Drilling templates in acrylic on the laser again. Easy.

Attach X shaped alignment spacer to door, align door panel, align cutting template with inner alignment spacer, drill in holes.

Now a final spacer in thinner 1/8" acrylic finishes off the fabrication work. This spacer has holes in it for the speakers themselves.

I guess I didn't get a picture of the 1/8" external spacer, but it looks much like the factory ring I was test fitting here. I cut a counter sink in the acrylic spacer and used #12 x 1" sheet metal, flush screws to secure the spacers. Drilled the holes for the speaker all the way through the door card and mounted using the provided screws with the speakers. A harness adapter to plug into the factory wiring.

End result. Yes it clears the dash by about 1/8". Just barely but it does not touch.

I put these speakers in my '94, and I love them. I did not do as gooda job mounting them as you, because I got lazy and didn't make the adapters. I will gladly get in line for a pair, if you decide to make anymore. LMK up front what your costs are and I'll make it worth your while.

 

[Malleus]

For the wiring, I wanted to understand how the existing factory system was wired up. The EWD is full of options my vehicle doesn't have, with little asterisk notes about what isn't present. I decided to make a cleaner schematic by removing all the stuff that isn't actually present. I have the 6 speaker, separate amp system, no sub woofer, no CD changer.

View attachment 3409082

This cleans things up a lot. A ton of unused connectors are in the truck related to audio speaker options that were not installed (were they dealer options?). R1A is not used. R3B is not used. BN1, BR1, W5, W6, all not used, but I believe they are all present on the vehicle for 96 and 97, at least the part numbers do not show any differences in the wiring harness based on audio options. The entire stereo 'seperate amp' wiring hookup is on connector R2 which runs line level, shielded signals to the amp plugged in at S12B. All speakers are connected to the amp on S11A. The optional sub woofer amp (mounted rear passenger quarter panel) is connected at connector W6 running speaker level inputs to it The woofer speaker then plugs in via connector W5, also in the passenger rear quarter.

The front speakers are also connected to R1A with the dash and door speakers in parallel, and the rear door speakers and rear roof speakers in parallel connected to R3B.

So if you are hooking up a harness to R1A and R3B (in the dash at the stereo), you should unplug S11A and S12B from the internal amp (behind the right dash speaker, on top of the ECU) so you aren't feeding power into either amp in reverse. I'd read you needed to do that but didn't fully understand why until decoding the wiring diagram, basically the stereo connector speaker wires are also connected to the amp so if you hook up both, you've got two amps outputting the same speaker wires.

There should also be connectors in the lower rear quarters for the roof speakers (that I don't have). The speakers and harness going to the roof would not be present on mine since I didn't have that option.

Master class on how to do the job the right way.

 

[Malleus]

@sbman
Pics of the completed install? Did the cameras come with the head unit as a package or did you source them separately? I installed a JVC in the '94, but didn't have a camera at the time, didn't like JVC's and now my son wants one.

 

[sbman]

I put these speakers in my '94, and I love them. I did not do as gooda job mounting them as you, because I got lazy and didn't make the adapters. I will gladly get in line for a pair, if you decide to make anymore. LMK up front what your costs are and I'll make it worth your while.

@sbman
Pics of the completed install? Did the cameras come with the head unit as a package or did you source them separately? I installed a JVC in the '94, but didn't have a camera at the time, didn't like JVC's and now my son wants one.

The install is not yet done, it's in progress, posting up as I complete it. If anyone wants a set of acrylic spacers, just send me a PM to show your interest. I'll get some more scrap acrylic next week and let you know when I do. It's possible it will be stacked pieces glued together to get the right height but that should not matter. I'll make them so they get the door card flush where the speaker sits so you can surface mount whatever you like.

 

[sbman]

Created the second harness that integrates into the Cruiser. This one gets the two cruise control dash control wires to a switch, routes them to the stereo, also provides the 'R' indicator signal, sourced off the ECU pin, as well as an output for the turn on signal for the sub-woofer amp. I'm using a 4 pin metri-pak connector because that's what I had on hand.

For the switch, I needed a DPDT switch to toggle the cruise control remote wires between the stereo or the cruise control. I can't use the controls for both devices at the same time. I wanted a Toyota factory looking switch to do so, but haven't been able to source one. So I took apart the rear heater blower switch and converted it to DPDT. It had all the internals for DPDT switch, but half of it was used for internal LED lighting, so cut those parts out, bridge a couple of terminals and there you go! Will make new labels for the face of it.

With the switch sorted out and the secondary harness installed in the Cruiser, I tested it all and programmed the remote controls interface and the reverse signal, all worked well. Now time to route the backup camera, front facing camera, GPS antenna and hands free microphone. Debating where to put the mic for the most effective install. I previously had the mic mounted up near the visor but the sound quality was never very good. Thinking of putting it on the steering column this time.

 

[sbman]

Now moved to the back of the truck, time to install the backup camera. Hard part here is routing the wiring.

I cut the RCA end off of a video cable, and used a red/black pair for power.

I pushed a solid copper wire through the electrical grommet on the passenger side of the truck, from below up into the quarter panel. This is the main exit point for under truck wiring on that side of the truck. The dealer trailer wiring goes through this grommet as well. I just pushed through it with the stiff wire. I then taped the video and power cables to it inside of the quarter panel and pulled them through out the bottom of the truck. Got them through and then untaped.

Next, I pulled the tailgate wiring loom/grommet out of the rear of the truck and pushed the solid copper wire down through the hole in rear of the truck body. This hole goes into large, square, hollow crossmember that runs side to side, all the way to each frame rail. There are large rectangular holes near the frame rails on each side. So I fished the solid wire over to the passenger side exit points, attached the video and power cable to it and pulled it out through the back of the truck.

Next the same operation to fish the solid wire through the tailgate and then through the grommet and finish pulling the video and power wires up into the tail gate.

Now, solder on a new RCA end and power jack. Secured the wires after soldering to the existing wire hold downs.

Removed the license plate light holder and enlarged the hold in it's grommet enough to pass the camera power/video lead through the grommet to run it into the tail gate. Mounted the camera to the light holder assembly and re-installed. Now if I want to swap cameras at any point, It is plugged in RCA and power inside the tail gate so I can change it out pretty easily. I covered the plug-ins with heat shrink tube to keep them from coming unplugged on their own, and also to keep them dry. (Not pictured)

Wiring terminates in the quarter panel for now. Going to put an SD Card based DVR so the camera also functions as a rear facing dash cam. First I have to install the Wit's end Quarter panel mount that I have had on the shelf for years. It was missing a couple of pieces of hardware, so I ran to the hardware store to supplement it with the necessary items.

More to come.