*UPDATED* Eimkeith RAM (radius arm mount) install

[Squeegee]

I agree with all of this and have spent a lot of time articulating the suspension. With the spring in and out, mostly with the spring out and shocks on. I would even let the suspension drop out with the 4" lift shock and the 6" lift shock, them put a 4x4 in one side were the spring should be and force the other side up to simulate articulation.
what I can say for sure is the arm and bushing are the biggest limitation in the 80s suspension.
With stock arms moved forward 11/8" there was no way I could get the suspension to articulation any near the travel of the 6" lift shock the 4x4 block would spit out with incredible force, when I strapped it in place it bent the bump stop that's in the spring it was the same with the 4" lift shock just not as severe.
I think that the RAM mount are one of the best way to correct caster in low lifts 2"s if you not going for extreme rock crawling, and in theory they should help down travel, but IMHO there no way your going to put a 2" drop bracket at the rear of the arm and achieve a additional 2" of travel at the axle, just not going to happen.
That being said it would be interesting to get two rigs with the same spring/ shock set. one with the drop brackets one with out and see what the real world improvement in down travel are.
Cheer's Let wheels

I’m hoping to do some testing in the next couple weeks on how much down travel I can get! I need to make a spacer for the shock and bother my friend with a fork lift. Gwnugget claimed 2” more with the RAM so I’m curious if I can get that myself!

 

[Broski]

I’m hoping to do some testing in the next couple weeks on how much down travel I can get! I need to make a spacer for the shock and bother my friend with a fork lift. Gwnugget claimed 2” more with the RAM so I’m curious if I can get that myself!

GW nugget was running a Different drop brackets manafre I believe, and wanted to go with the Dalta VS arms to get the axle forward when I convince him to try the Ram brackets, not sure where he came up with that number,
@GW Nugget ?

 

[Squeegee]

GW nugget was running a Different drop brackets manafre I believe, and wanted to go with the Dalta VS arms to get the axle forward when I convince him to try the Ram brackets, not sure where he came up with that number,
@GW Nugget ?

Oh I didn’t realize that. Hopefully he chimes in with some data!!

 

[Nay]

This is going to be a long post, with a lot of pictures showing incredibly tight clearances, about making 38’s work on a tall lift with existing @landtank caster plates, correcting pinion angle (and not caster except that it follows), and asking a simple question to @eimkeith:

Can you adapt a set of these brackets for zero forward shift of the axle and half the drop? I think a lot of people could and would use this.

As a bit of background, I have a prototype set of Landtank’s brackets from forever ago - these shift the axle forward and were designed for proper pinion angle in a 4” lift with a front DC driveshaft conversion, which due to the great fortune of Toyota using a broken back stock design, means the DC conversion increases caster and at that lift height it’s more or less in spec.

I don’t know my caste because I don’t care - AWD is non-negotiable for how I use my 80 and in that case you can’t just set caster, it is what it is with proper pinion angle. I set my toe myself in like 2010 (1/8” toe in for a 37” tire) and it has not seen an alignment shop since, nor will it.

I ended up with over rotation of the pinion downward with the prototype caster brackets, and we know how sensitive DC shafts are to pinion alignment, so I had vibes with the DC shaft as the pinion was a bit over a degree low. So I installed an OME bushings in each of the rear axle mount positions only, upside down so they would rotate the pinion up 1.25° (yes, reducing caster, it doesn’t matter). This aligned the pinion, but it also had the benefit of creating more tierod to arm clearance. It looks like this:

With this setup, I have never had any clearance issue of any kind on 37s, starting on a 3.5” lift. The front coils are in their proper position (meaning the axle is), and I’ve also never had any unusual bushing wear (the OME are fine over a decade going) or flex bind beyond what these arms do naturally. We should note here that all caster plates are not created equal and they can do more than rotate the pinion.

So flash forward to now where I’ve gone to 38”
Patagonia MTs (same as @GW Nugget) and just recently to the new Dobinsons 144/155 coils. My 80 is light, relatively, and I am sitting 26” center of hub to fender, no flares, wrapped around the tire, on all four corners. That looks like this:

I am going to point out here that you cannot run this tire and actually wheel it with the axle any more forward than this. I have 5” of lift. I took these pics today:

This is the tire just kissing the radiator core when it is stuffed like this:

I sledged my rear inner fenders back at the angle of how the tire turns in - I didn’t have any road contact but it was too tight for off-road hits while turning. There’s nothing behind that lower fender and they were happy to oblige.

Now to the key parts. We’ve already established that if there is a goal to run 38’s, and this is a big 38, and you have proper caster plates, then you can’t use a frame side drop mount that also shifts the axle forward. Not even a millimeter. I have 2” bumpstop drops up front BTW.

Going to post this and continue below, so give me 15 mins before responding.

 

[Nay]

I had been running the 4” Flexi coils and while the front pinion was a bit high, no vibes, but I’m thinking “I should pull that OME bushing, because I don’t need it anymore with the extra 1” of lift from the Flexi and I could get that caster back”. But I didn’t, because that’s a pain in the ass. Now I have another 1/2” of lift and it’s just enough to put pinion angle out of spec and I have light decel vibes at 50-60 mph. By out of spec, I mean measured angles. First one is pinion u-joint, second is driveshaft. Ignore the actual angles my driveway is sloped, it only matters relative to each other.

That’s a degree off maybe a hair more, and DC driveshafts are fine until a degree. So I could just pull that OME bushing and it’s perfect, 5” of lift, perfectly corrected with caster plates, right?

That’s a second set of arms getting fresh factory rubber, until while testing flex fit again after some rear trimming, I took this:

At full flex, it just barely clears the arm and the pinion. I pull that OME bushing and my pinion angle is corrected, so I can’t use more, but I’ll lose tierod clearance and there’s none to lose. A 25mm drop bracket would be perfect, with zero forward shift.

I wheel harder than I’d be happy to drop it 2” in any case, but this would be pretty nominal and a great tuning component. Yes, I could fab this, but I’d rather piggyback on a really nice product.

@eimkeith - what say you?

And for all of you readers, If you ask or say something about caster, please read again and listen to me here that I am never ever going to covert my 80 to part time just because I am unable to focus on u-joint alignment so my vehicle operates properly instead of an alignment spec on a shop printout. I am also not buying any aftermarket arms when there is zero reason to do so. Let’s stick with the plan here.

 

[Nay]

…

 

[landtank]

I just want to point out that my 4” plates have never moved the axle forward, always rotated in place. And there was a change early on that dealt with the tierod contact.

From memory you initially were running Frankies springs which were a lower lift. Only mention that so people can understand that while caster changes with your lift height so does your pinion angle in relation to the transfer case. This is the challenge you face with AWD.

 

[GW Nugget]

Im replying to the mention of how did I get 2" more drop buy lowering the frame mounts?
Well its just geometry.
I had a set of 851 coils plus a 25mm spacer that were snug at full drop. Once I installed the MAF drop brackets the coil came loose about the same as the drop at the frame as the bracket. Same theory as the eimkieth brackets. There is a video posted in my build thread...

As for Nay & the 144/145vt lift measurement of 26" is crazy tall for a 3.5" spec lift. 26" non flare measurement is like 5.5" of lift.
Wonder what the 146/147vt will be?

 

[LC4LIFE]

As for Nay & the 144/145vt lift measurement of 26" is crazy tall for a 3.5" spec lift. 26" non flare measurement is like 5.5" of lift.
Wonder what the 146/147vt will be?

He's also light. The heavy rigs I know personally are running right at or just over 4" with the new VT's. The springs are spec'd for heavy rigs, so I don't think anyone should be surprised when they get more lift when light.

 

[Nay]

I just want to point out that my 4” plates have never moved the axle forward, always rotated in place. And there was a change early on that dealt with the tierod contact.

From memory you initially were running Frankies springs which were a lower lift. Only mention that so people can understand that while caster changes with your lift height so does your pinion angle in relation to the transfer case. This is the challenge you face with AWD.

Yes that’s correct, that lift was 3.5”. I only mentioned this because I made a tweak using a single caster bushing upside down to tune pinion angle (and, gasp, reducing caster), which was something at the time that worked perfectly. I’ve honestly assumed I had the tierod clearance version of your plates because I’ve never had any contact beyond the slightest finish scraping on a heavy duty tierod and I have zero grinding of my arms. The FOR lift was only on my 80 and Frankies at the time, we didn’t really know where it was going to land, and you get what you get with prototypes.

Below is just general commentary from here, not responding to the quoted bit.

I’m curious about the axle position aspect so more picture time below. This is the 38x13.5 Patagonia MT, still on 4” Flexi, zero fender mods - it clears on road (remember, an angled arm compresses forward).

For anybody thinking the Patagonia must be smallish for a 38….

Here are is that tire compared to the true to size 37” STT Pro.

This is straight tire stuff on the 38, still 4” Flexi. The tire is perfectly centered and needs clearance in both directions for turning. My lower radiator core is trimmed so I have some extra clearance there.

And here are the 4” Flexi coils on the tower under full weight. This is a 25.5” hub to fender measurement in this picture. I have 2” internal bumpstop drops and zero coil to tower contact under any amount of flex. The coils are centered and unbowed.

@GW Nugget can you post some pics at full stuff similar the the ones I’ve posted? The arc of an angled vs horizontal arm is different and I think it would be useful to see active clearance pics.

 

[cvenom96]

I've got to relocate my bumpstop spacers to the bottom since they're rubbing on the spring now. Mine is reasonably heavy with the VH144/145. Although, since I'm at the lower end of the caster range with the Dobinson plates, I could put in the drop mounts which should rotate the axle a little more and push it forward a touch. Might be enough to eliminate the bumpstop hitting the spring...

 

[GW Nugget]

Yes that’s correct, that lift was 3.5”. I only mentioned this because I made a tweak using a single caster bushing upside down to tune pinion angle (and, gasp, reducing caster), which was something at the time that worked perfectly. I’ve honestly assumed I had the tierod clearance version of your plates because I’ve never had any contact beyond the slightest finish scraping on a heavy duty tierod and I have zero grinding of my arms. The FOR lift was only on my 80 and Frankies at the time, we didn’t really know where it was going to land, and you get what you get with prototypes.

Below is just general commentary from here, not responding to the quoted bit.

I’m curious about the axle position aspect so more picture time below. This is the 38x13.5 Patagonia MT, still on 4” Flexi, zero fender mods - it clears on road (remember, an angled arm compresses forward).

View attachment 2713293

For anybody thinking the Patagonia must be smallish for a 38….

Here are is that tire compared to the true to size 37” STT Pro.

View attachment 2713294

This is straight tire stuff on the 38, still 4” Flexi. The tire is perfectly centered and needs clearance in both directions for turning. My lower radiator core is trimmed so I have some extra clearance there.

View attachment 2713297

And here are the 4” Flexi coils on the tower under full weight. This is a 25.5” hub to fender measurement in this picture. I have 2” internal bumpstop drops and zero coil to tower contact under any amount of flex. The coils are centered and unbowed.

View attachment 2713303

@GW Nugget can you post some pics at full stuff similar the the ones I’ve posted? The arc of an angled vs horizontal arm is different and I think it would be useful to see active clearance pics.

Well you & I both have 38" tires but after that our approach on how we got them to fit is completely different. I'm on 2" of suspension & you are on a 5.5".
Lift till they fit or cut till they fit. You lowered you front bumps 2" & I'm now back to stockish with the Icon air bumps. Wheelback set & width comes into play also, cant remember yours, but I know mine stick out more then yours. I can go on.... but my journey is well documented in my build thread with plenty of articulated stuffed fender pictures. Start around like page 40 or so. link is in signature.

 

[Nay]

I've got to relocate my bumpstop spacers to the bottom since they're rubbing on the spring now. Mine is reasonably heavy with the VH144/145. Although, since I'm at the lower end of the caster range with the Dobinson plates, I could put in the drop mounts which should rotate the axle a little more and push it forward a touch. Might be enough to eliminate the bumpstop hitting the spring...

Just get the Landtank caster plates - my post above yours shows a perfectly aligned coil tower with 2” extended bumpstops inside the coil.

 

[Nay]

Well you & I both have 38" tires but after that our approach on how we got them to fit is completely different. I'm on 2" of suspension & you are on a 5.5".
Lift till they fit or cut till they fit. You lowered you front bumps 2" & I'm now back to stockish with the Icon air bumps. I can go on.... but my journey is well documented in my build thread with plenty of articulated stuffed fender pictures. Start around like page 38 or so. link is in signature.

I just responded on your thread where you have major coil bow and coil to frame contact. Those pics and issues belong here - I have 3.5” more lift and my coils look like this:

And yours look like this and you’ve had to cut metal due to coil contact:

Your lift is within factory geometry spec, it’s the entire point of your build. That’s a horrendous result for a 2” suspension lift.

I don’t even know what else to say here. Wow. Just wow.

 

[jkeithw]

Good morning. I'm just catching up on these posts - I split my weeks nowadays with a small house renovation in the mountains where there is limited internet, and I'm just back to my desk for a moment before heading to the shop this morning, hence the delay.

First - regarding your question:

"Can you adapt a set of these brackets for zero forward shift of the axle and half the drop?"

"We’ve already established that if there is a goal to run 38’s, and this is a big 38, and you have proper caster plates, then you can’t use a frame side drop mount that also shifts the axle forward. Not even a millimeter. I have 2” bumpstop drops up front BTW."

The short answer there is going to be no. The lower edge of the factory bracket is just shy of 30mm below the center of the factory hole - your new hole would be right in the flange - so 1" down isn't feasible if you aren't comfortable modifying the factory mount.

Beyond that; for most situations you wouldn't want to lower the pivot without moving it forward some, as you'd be bringing the tire in toward the firewall at the top of its arc (the lower the pivot, the more the tire arcs back toward the firewall as the suspension is compressed). In your setup, it might not be a factor as you are bumped down and not utilizing the full arc/uptravel available in the suspension - your tire is still arcing forward at bump (which is why you are up against the radiator core support at the top of your travel).

At full flex, it just barely clears the arm and the pinion. I pull that OME bushing and my pinion angle is corrected, so I can’t use more, but I’ll lose tierod clearance and there’s none to lose. A 25mm drop bracket would be perfect, with zero forward shift.

I wheel harder than I’d be happy to drop it 2” in any case, but this would be pretty nominal and a great tuning component. Yes, I could fab this, but I’d rather piggyback on a really nice product.

I am also not buying any aftermarket arms when there is zero reason to do so.

Well, thank you! As I previously mentioned, a 1" drop would need to be a custom fabricated solution, as it would require modification of the factory mount & flange, although I can see where it would be a quick aid to your current tie rod/pinion/arm issue (as would aftermarket arms built for the pinion angle you spec, but you've ruled those out). However, I'm wondering if offset trunion bushings might be better?

"I don’t know my caste because I don’t care - AWD is non-negotiable for how I use my 80 and in that case you can’t just set caster, it is what it is with proper pinion angle. I set my toe myself in like 2010 (1/8” toe in for a 37” tire) and it has not seen an alignment shop since, nor will it.

I ended up with over rotation of the pinion downward with the prototype caster brackets, and we know how sensitive DC shafts are to pinion alignment, so I had vibes with the DC shaft as the pinion was a bit over a degree low. So I installed an OME bushings in each of the rear axle mount positions only, upside down so they would rotate the pinion up 1.25° (yes, reducing caster, it doesn’t matter)."

For your setup, you aren't concerned with caster but are using a double cardan driveshaft, so I'm wondering why you are keeping the plates? They are giving you too much pinion change for your setup, so you're counteracting them somewhat with the inverted OME bushings (as you stated), so it seems like making your own plates and using offset trunion bearings might be the tuning tools you'd be after for balancing steering clearance with pinion angle change. Since with the radius arm design the pinion relationship to the arms is fixed relative to the radius arm pivot, it would seem that cleaning up the pinion angle at ride height with your own plates might be a more efficient approach than stacking plates & bushings? (I don't know offhand the amount of caster correction of the plates vs the bearings, and your combination of parts is clearly getting you close to where you want to be, I just wonder if it could be accomplished more efficiently)

This is going to be a long post, with a lot of pictures showing incredibly tight clearances, about making 38’s work on a tall lift with existing @landtank caster plates, correcting pinion angle (and not caster except that it follows), and asking a simple question to @eimkeith:

Can you adapt a set of these brackets for zero forward shift of the axle and half the drop? I think a lot of people could and would use this.

As a bit of background, I have a prototype set of Landtank’s brackets from forever ago - these shift the axle forward and were designed for proper pinion angle in a 4” lift with a front DC driveshaft conversion, which due to the great fortune of Toyota using a broken back stock design, means the DC conversion increases caster and at that lift height it’s more or less in spec.

I don’t know my caste because I don’t care - AWD is non-negotiable for how I use my 80 and in that case you can’t just set caster, it is what it is with proper pinion angle. I set my toe myself in like 2010 (1/8” toe in for a 37” tire) and it has not seen an alignment shop since, nor will it.

I ended up with over rotation of the pinion downward with the prototype caster brackets, and we know how sensitive DC shafts are to pinion alignment, so I had vibes with the DC shaft as the pinion was a bit over a degree low. So I installed an OME bushings in each of the rear axle mount positions only, upside down so they would rotate the pinion up 1.25° (yes, reducing caster, it doesn’t matter). This aligned the pinion, but it also had the benefit of creating more tierod to arm clearance. It looks like this:

View attachment 2712711

With this setup, I have never had any clearance issue of any kind on 37s, starting on a 3.5” lift. The front coils are in their proper position (meaning the axle is), and I’ve also never had any unusual bushing wear (the OME are fine over a decade going) or flex bind beyond what these arms do naturally. We should note here that all caster plates are not created equal and they can do more than rotate the pinion.

So flash forward to now where I’ve gone to 38”
Patagonia MTs (same as @GW Nugget) and just recently to the new Dobinsons 144/155 coils. My 80 is light, relatively, and I am sitting 26” center of hub to fender, no flares, wrapped around the tire, on all four corners. That looks like this:

View attachment 2712712

I am going to point out here that you cannot run this tire and actually wheel it with the axle any more forward than this. I have 5” of lift. I took these pics today:

View attachment 2712713

This is the tire just kissing the radiator core when it is stuffed like this:

View attachment 2712714

View attachment 2712715

I sledged my rear inner fenders back at the angle of how the tire turns in - I didn’t have any road contact but it was too tight for off-road hits while turning. There’s nothing behind that lower fender and they were happy to oblige.

Now to the key parts. We’ve already established that if there is a goal to run 38’s, and this is a big 38, and you have proper caster plates, then you can’t use a frame side drop mount that also shifts the axle forward. Not even a millimeter. I have 2” bumpstop drops up front BTW.

Going to post this and continue below, so give me 15 mins before responding.

I had been running the 4” Flexi coils and while the front pinion was a bit high, no vibes, but I’m thinking “I should pull that OME bushing, because I don’t need it anymore with the extra 1” of lift from the Flexi and I could get that caster back”. But I didn’t, because that’s a pain in the ass. Now I have another 1/2” of lift and it’s just enough to put pinion angle out of spec and I have light decel vibes at 50-60 mph. By out of spec, I mean measured angles. First one is pinion u-joint, second is driveshaft. Ignore the actual angles my driveway is sloped, it only matters relative to each other.

View attachment 2712716
View attachment 2712717
That’s a degree off maybe a hair more, and DC driveshafts are fine until a degree. So I could just pull that OME bushing and it’s perfect, 5” of lift, perfectly corrected with caster plates, right?

View attachment 2712718
That’s a second set of arms getting fresh factory rubber, until while testing flex fit again after some rear trimming, I took this:

View attachment 2712719

At full flex, it just barely clears the arm and the pinion. I pull that OME bushing and my pinion angle is corrected, so I can’t use more, but I’ll lose tierod clearance and there’s none to lose. A 25mm drop bracket would be perfect, with zero forward shift.

I wheel harder than I’d be happy to drop it 2” in any case, but this would be pretty nominal and a great tuning component. Yes, I could fab this, but I’d rather piggyback on a really nice product.

@eimkeith - what say you?

And for all of you readers, If you ask or say something about caster, please read again and listen to me here that I am never ever going to covert my 80 to part time just because I am unable to focus on u-joint alignment so my vehicle operates properly instead of an alignment spec on a shop printout. Let’s stick with the plan here.

 

[jkeithw]

I just responded on your thread where you have major coil bow and coil to frame contact. Those pics and issues belong here - I have 3.5” more lift and my coils look like this:

View attachment 2714191

And yours look like this and you’ve had to cut metal due to coil contact:

View attachment 2714193

Your lift is within factory geometry spec, it’s the entire point of your build. That’s a horrendous result for a 2” suspension lift.

I don’t even know what else to say here. Wow. Just wow.

You're comparing a 14 wrap, extended length spring with your 10 wrap - and omitting the following photos in the very same post - that's a bit disingenuous.

Here is the complete post you're referencing, for clarity. (and it's no secret; everyone here has followed along as these brackets have been developed. GW tested the very first prototypes the same way he researches everything - completely transparent.)

Since I have moved the axle forward 1" via the eimkieth weld on drop brackets I've been fighting right side coil to frame rub.
Moving the axle forward made the coil banana a little bit. The Dobinsons banana more than the TourFlex coils.
To fix this I need to get an adjustable front panhard bar to re-center the axle, but untill then I removed some of the conflicting metal from the frame..
More caster will give less banana also.
The Dobinson 146vt coil lift my rig 1.5" lift +25mm spacer +.25" bracket =2.75" of lift with 2" of caster correction.
The red coils are 1" lift +25mm spacer +.25" bracket = 2.25" of lift. with same 2" of correction.
This rubbing can be mitigated rather easily, I will show with pictures.
View attachment 2577041
Can you say ?
View attachment 2577046
Below is a before pic of the rub area on the frame.
See the paint marks?
View attachment 2577059
After grinding...
View attachment 2577043
Here is the TourFlex coil, these sit better.
I still need to get a front panhard bar.
Im looking for a good used one.
As for a new one, does anyone sell them with rubber bushing rather then poly?
View attachment 2577044
​

 

[GW Nugget]

We have to conversations going here & my thread. This is my reply to Nay on my thread:
Yes 2" drop for 2" of lift is stock spec, but 2.75" of lift is out of spec with the 146vt coil & needs more caster which is aiding to the banana effect.
I bet only the old version of tapered Dobi coils would have this banana problem though cuz the wire gets to 11mm at the end... the red TourFlex dont. The red coils have a thicker wire on top.
Again the TourFlex coil is a 1" coil & my 146vt is lifting 1.75".
Another issue is my axle needs to go to passenger side about 3/8" with the 146vt & about 1/4" with the red coils..

To be honest eimkieth should offer a strait 2" drop option, but there are other manufacturers that do make strait drop brackets.

I am waiting for the 1st set of Delta 3L arms to get that extra caster then put the teal 146vt tapered coils back to get me to a 2.75" lift. The extra caster should get the bump stop pads centered also.

Did this answer all your questions?

 

[jkeithw]

@Nay; after staring st the bottom on my wife’s 80 on the rack, I have some thoughts about your original question - I’ll get back to you when I’m near a keyboard.

EDIT: - ok, had a chance to run some rough numbers on your situation... - assuming an agreed-upon compression measurement for the stock bumpstops and noting that you're bumped down 2", I think if you want to drop an inch you'd want to cheat the pivot forward about 3mm to have the axle land in the same position in the wheel well under hard compression. That 1" pivot drop would likely be a 1.78-degree change in pinion angle, btw. I'm not sure it would give you the room you need on the tie rod, though - it looks pretty tight in your photos.

You're already effectively spacing the radius arm away from the axle to give you more steering clearance, right? (plates plus offset bushing) I keep circling back to custom plates (which I'm sure you can do).

Anyway, if it is helpful, I'll send you a print of the pivot hole relocation if that's useful for you - might have a buddy with a plasma table?

 

[Squeegee]

It’s been a couple years so I’ll give an update. I’ve wheeled it all over montana, done moab twice, done a little bit of sand hollow once, and driven across the country multiple times. Thus far, I’ve hit them… a lot. But I’ve really only gotten stuck (enough to be annoyed with them) really only once.. it was a big big boulder. Honestly, I’ve been super happy with these. If you have a 2” lift, I implore that you get them. It doesn’t really dive, doesn’t really lean, and flexes well. For reference, I’m running a 25” long custom trail tailor spring, run a 4” lift dobinsons shock, and I cut the frame side shock tower and move the mount 2.5” down to get some extra down travel.

 

[Broski]

It’s been a couple years so I’ll give an update. I’ve wheeled it all over montana, done moab twice, done a little bit of sand hollow once, and driven across the country multiple times. Thus far, I’ve hit them… a lot. But I’ve really only gotten stuck (enough to be annoyed with them) really only once.. it was a big big boulder. Honestly, I’ve been super happy with these. If you have a 2” lift, I implore that you get them. It doesn’t really dive, doesn’t really lean, and flexes well. For reference, I’m running a 25” long custom trail tailor spring, run a 4” lift dobinsons shock, and I cut the frame side shock tower and move the mount 2.5” down to get some extra down travel.

View attachment 3306840

What trail tailor spring are you running, how much lift does it provide ?