I have adapted my suspension overhaul plan to include these. I have a set on the parts shelf. Was going with plates, but the plan is 37s and I think these will be better.
*UPDATED* Eimkeith RAM (radius arm mount) install (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter leonard_nemoy
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I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on these. I have the correction plates and the new 144/145VTs ready to go on which will probably net about 4" on my truck. If I'm following correctly, I'd want to run both in order to get caster back into spec right?
- Thread starter
- #64
There is a good chance you might need both. If I were you I would do the RAM kit first than get an alignment and go from there.
You also might want to consider trunion bearings for the additional caster correction after the RAM.
Sounds good. These are easy enough and don't have to do any cutting unless I need to do the plates.
I’m having to Slee plates with my RAMs to get enough caster. But you may have to have a part time kit. You may get vibes with that much caster correction.
- Thread starter
- #67
Will trunion bearing caster correction also affect drive line angle?
alia176
SILVER Star
Yes sir, any caster correction will impact the driveline angle.
The off set trunion bearings rotate the knuckle not the axle so they don't impact drive line angles. But could increase the possibility of tie rod contact when used with other correction methods.
eimkeith
Supporting Vendor
the RAMs won't exacerbate the tie rod contact issue (since they maintain the relationship between the radius arms and the axle) but the trunion bearings would as would the plates - although as you said, those offset trunion bearings shouldn't impact pinion angle. They sound appealing to me.
How can the Ram increase down travel ?
eimkeith
Supporting Vendor
pretty sure that's intended to refer to decreasing ground clearance 2" at the bottom of the back end of the radius arm (compared to the stock mount) - based on the rest of the sentence.
When the pivot point is lower, ultimate down travel is increased with the hub center farther forward. Dropping the frame Mount is the most correct form of correction. We avoid this method only because the bracket hangs down lower.
Please explain, I having a hard time wrapping my head around this !
Fully agree with the last statement.
The arm starts off more level rather than being started into its arc at static ride height. Those brackets are great for those running stock arms.
I still don't get it, with 6" lift shocks on my Rig the axle just kept doping tell the shock max out, now with 4" lift shock it's 2" less
As far as I can tell it shocks that limit down travel with in the working limits of our suspensions.
I have been wrong before, school me
As far as I can tell it shocks that limit down travel with in the working limits of our suspensions.
I have been wrong before, school me
Somebody jump in if I’m wrong on this. It’s my understanding that when radius arms flex, they axle also rotate due to the suspension moving in an arc—- side moving up also moves forward—- side moving down, also moves backwards. When the radius arm is at the sock angle. This isn’t a problem.
But it’s my understanding that when you start working in angles, far exceeding what the radius arm was designed for, ie.. lifting an 80, the fore and aft motion of the axle either at full droop— or full stuff, is to great. Which ends up causing the bushings to bind.
This leads me to believe that this is why most 80s suffer in the down travel department
Some people don’t run into this issue because they have larger/ heavier tires that force the radius arm bushing into compliance and longer springs which provide constant downward pressure also forcing the bushings into compliance.
eimkeith
Supporting Vendor
Somebody jump in if I’m wrong on this. It’s my understanding that when radius arms flex, they axle also rotate due to the suspension moving in an arc—- side moving up also moves forward—- side moving down, also moves backwards. When the radius arm is at the sock angle. This isn’t a problem.
But it’s my understanding that when you start working in angles, far exceeding what the radius arm was designed for, ie.. lifting an 80, the fore and aft motion of the axle either at full droop— or full stuff, is to great. Which ends up causing the bushings to bind.
This leads me to believe that this is why most 80s suffer in the down travel department
Some people don’t run into this issue because they have larger/ heavier tires that force the radius arm bushing into compliance and longer springs which provide constant downward pressure also forcing the bushings into compliance.
hey, thanks for that - all things being equal, moving the suspension down will give more down travel, ignoring shock limitations. However, what you're getting at is also important - both in the terms of fore/aft arc travel of the wheel (part of the reason I push the axle forward), and although I honestly hadn't thought about it - possibly bushing bind as well?
(there's also an anti-dive aspect to consider when climbing, but that's for another discussion)
alia176
SILVER Star
Another way to think about it is this: anytime the 80 moves upward, both the front and rear axle move toward each other. When the 80 moves downward, the axles moves away from each other. So a 6" lifted 80 will have the axles closer to the center of the vehicle, hence the tire rubbage during turns and stuffing.
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I agree with all of this and have spent a lot of time articulating the suspension. With the spring in and out, mostly with the spring out and shocks on. I would even let the suspension drop out with the 4" lift shock and the 6" lift shock, them put a 4x4 in one side were the spring should be and force the other side up to simulate articulation.
what I can say for sure is the arm and bushing are the biggest limitation in the 80s suspension.
With stock arms moved forward 11/8" there was no way I could get the suspension to articulation any near the travel of the 6" lift shock the 4x4 block would spit out with incredible force, when I strapped it in place it bent the bump stop that's in the spring
it was the same with the 4" lift shock just not as severe.
I think that the RAM mount are one of the best way to correct caster in low lifts 2"s if you not going for extreme rock crawling, and in theory they should help down travel, but IMHO there no way your going to put a 2" drop bracket at the rear of the arm and achieve a additional 2" of travel at the axle, just not going to happen.
That being said it would be interesting to get two rigs with the same spring/ shock set. one with the drop brackets one with out and see what the real world improvement in down travel are.
Cheer's Let wheels
what I can say for sure is the arm and bushing are the biggest limitation in the 80s suspension.
With stock arms moved forward 11/8" there was no way I could get the suspension to articulation any near the travel of the 6" lift shock the 4x4 block would spit out with incredible force, when I strapped it in place it bent the bump stop that's in the spring
it was the same with the 4" lift shock just not as severe.I think that the RAM mount are one of the best way to correct caster in low lifts 2"s if you not going for extreme rock crawling, and in theory they should help down travel, but IMHO there no way your going to put a 2" drop bracket at the rear of the arm and achieve a additional 2" of travel at the axle, just not going to happen.
That being said it would be interesting to get two rigs with the same spring/ shock set. one with the drop brackets one with out and see what the real world improvement in down travel are.
Cheer's Let wheels
