TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (2 Viewers)

[Rice]

Seal for FJ40 e-Brake drum:

FYI (and also for your records @beno)

Doing E-brake cable install on the 40 (Thanks to the Beno Exceptional Express Repository ... BEER). While in there I opted to replace the rear output seal on the TC (This is the one that rides on the E-brake drum.)

The part NAPA had listed for the seal is incorrect. Had the right OD but was too loose on the drum. So went online looking for cross reference numbers to the original.

Part Numbers:

NAPA NOS 18962 listed on their computer .... Wrong part.
NOK AD2651E
SKF 17754
NATIONAL 710321

Looked everywhere for part in town and could not find it in any form.

My last ditch effort was *gasp* Autozone.

Their Part number is 1012N under their name, Duralast. (I dislike Duralast almost as much as Harbor Freight when it comes to quality). Well, I was out of options. My wife was on her way home so I asked her to stop off and pick one up.

Best part .... Seal Cost under $2 (which I expected since it was Duracrap) and came in a Timken box. Perfect fit.

 

[OGBeno]

I could have included the seal as well you know. They Toyota one is like $2 too.

 

[Rice]

I could have included the seal as well you know. They Toyota one is like $2 too.

Re read our emails and you will find I did ask for a seal.

 

[OGBeno]

Re read our emails and you will find I did ask for a seal.

D'oh. BLAMMO!!

Well, s*** you did and I missed it. My bad completely. Sorry about that--you should have said something!

Luckily I didn't charge you for one either!

 

[Rice]

D'oh. BLAMMO!!

Well, s*** you did and I missed it. My bad completely. Sorry about that--you should have said something!

Luckily I didn't charge you for one either!

It's all cool man. I know you're pulling insane hours. Now if my $2 seal leaks that's another story.

 

[Rice]

E-brake cable installed. Another salute to Beno ... not only the right part but it's worth mentioning the shipping was pretty darn fast also.

The phrase you will hear from every Land Cruiser owner .... "Well, while I'm in there I might as well ....."
In my case that was

1. replace a seal (it wasn't leaking but it was 10 years old)
2. Replace one universal joint that was beginning to show some wear.
3. rebuild e-brake to make it all pretty.
4. Make a small correction to pinion angle

Honestly, not a big job, so I don't have a good answer for why it took 5 hours. Eh.

I really was convinced the slip yoke would hold and half the shaft would not fall on my foot. I was wrong.

Parts ready for install.

Corrected driveshaft angle.

 

[roadstr6]

Also posted on my Crockpot build thread. I pulled a leaf from each of the four springs to gain some flex. The stiff 4" lift springs were scary off-road as the CP would lift a wheel in a heartbeat. Fabbed up some bump stop extensions as well. Before and after neighborhood ditch flex pics:
BEFORE

AFTER

Bump stop extensions:

The rig sits about .75" lower now. Shackle angles went from vertical to this:

and this:

 

[Rice]

Also posted on my Crockpot build thread. I pulled a leaf from each of the four springs to gain some flex. The stiff 4" lift springs were scary off-road as the CP would lift a wheel in a heartbeat. Fabbed up some bump stop extensions as well. Before and after neighborhood ditch flex pics:
BEFORE
View attachment 1097731
AFTER
View attachment 1097732
Bump stop extensions:
View attachment 1097733
The rig sits about .75" lower now. Shackle angles went from vertical to this:
View attachment 1097734
and this:

That made a huge difference, especially in the rear wheel tuck. Well done.

 

[roadstr6]

Rice, you are correct. The rears were what was holding back the flex. Before the spring mod I had the cruiser lean to the driver side as well so I decided that while I was in this deep, I'd swap the rear springs from side to side to see if it helped. It didn't. Cruisers lean. That's what they do. I'm getting used to it. Kinda gangsta' actually. Here's a couple more before and after pics. The difference is amazing:
BEFORE

AFTER

Hard to see but in the first pic the PS front tire was about 6" - 8" off the ground. In the second pic it was planted. Looking at the "levelness" of the roof in the before and after gives a pretty good perspective on how much more stable the rig is.

 

[elkaholic]

You can also really see it in the right rear shackle angle ....

 

[Rice]

More FYI.

Johnny (@GLTHFJ60), you're the only other one I know running an NV4500 so you know how specific the lube is for your tranny. Regardless of all the talk saying GM P/N 12346190 is the same as Castrol Syntorque there is no way I'm going to risk burning out synchros to save a buck. Here is best price I have seen. Dealer price is $38/Qt.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008B5WJ00?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

 

[GLTHFJ60]

More FYI.

Johnny (@GLTHFJ60), you're the only other one I know running an NV4500 so you know how specific the lube is for your tranny. Regardless of all the talk saying GM P/N 12346190 is the same as Castrol Syntorque there is no way I'm going to risk burning out synchros to save a buck. Here is best price I have seen. Dealer price is $38/Qt.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008B5WJ00?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

View attachment 1097923

It's $38 a flipping quart now?!?!

Thanks for the heads up bud, I'll definitely be ordering some of this.

 

[Rice]

I'm sure fleet guys can get it at the dealer for less but I'm a nobody, so $38.

 

[Rice]

From an earlier discussion regarding keeping your winch secure from unauthorized use and protection from a solenoid fusing in the "on" position ....

Installed: 500 Amp (continuous) master solenoid activated with in-cab switch.

Side Note .... if the only concern was not wanting someone to be able to tamper with your winch and you did not worry about there being a "stuck on" situation there is an easy zero-cost way to wire an in-cab switch into the built-in solenoids. The only advantage the solenoid I installed has is being able to shut power off to the winch in the event something else goes wrong.

 

[JohnVee]

@Rice I'll be asking for a parts list/schematic when I get around to wiring up my new toy...eventually.

And...@roxx drank your beer. I bet Jeremy will set you some more aside. ROXX should go make the pickup to even it out!


...via IH8MUD app

 

[elkaholic]

@Rice I'll be asking for a parts list/schematic when I get around to wiring up my new toy...eventually.

And...@roxx drank your beer. I bet Jeremy will set you some more aside. ROXX should go make the pickup to even it out!


...via IH8MUD app

John I can help you with that wiring and wiring an in cab control with a safety cutout that disables the control port on the solenoid / contractor box. Just lemme know when you're going to do the wiring.

 

[jamesurq]

Some mild wrenching today - opened up the bolt holes in my rear diff's flange, to align with the bolt holes in the rear driveshaft. (10.5 to 8.5) And slapped on the factory correct bolts.. I'm still getting an 'off throttle' vibration, it's now at 50mph instead of 60...

Me thinks I have more work to do.

Oh and I also fiberglass wrapped my exhaust system and installed heat shielding on the fuel pump and fuel lines. I have a new fuel pump on order, but the current one works fine when it's cool... So far so good. Took it for a hard ride and it felt cool to the touch. (as did the wrapped exhaust - surprisingly effective...)

 

[Roxx]

@Rice I'll be asking for a parts list/schematic when I get around to wiring up my new toy...eventually.

And...@roxx drank your beer. I bet Jeremy will set you some more aside. ROXX should go make the pickup to even it out!


...via IH8MUD app

Which beer ???? Dont know what ypu r talking about.

 

[Rice]

Some mild wrenching today - opened up the bolt holes in my rear diff's flange, to align with the bolt holes in the rear driveshaft. (10.5 to 8.5) And slapped on the factory correct bolts.. I'm still getting an 'off throttle' vibration, it's now at 50mph instead of 60...

Me thinks I have more work to do.

Oh and I also fiberglass wrapped my exhaust system and installed heat shielding on the fuel pump and fuel lines. I have a new fuel pump on order, but the current one works fine when it's cool... So far so good. Took it for a hard ride and it felt cool to the touch. (as did the wrapped exhaust - surprisingly effective...)

The highest probability for off throttle comes from 3 possibles:

1. Pinion angle set too low. (At last look I think your angle was pretty close but will look again .... Do you remember what size shim you put in?)
2. U-joint ... It's an old memory because it sat on the shelf for so long (In fact, I just called Tom Woods who made my current shaft and they verified I had it made in August 2004 ... so Stumpy was on the shelf for 11 years) but I really do believe stumpy had new u-joints. We can check and they are cheap to replace.
3. Pinion bearing is too loose. With rear end up on stands get under there and give the pinion a good shake. Should have zero lateral play.

Worth mentioning ... Double-Cardan shafts require there be zero angle at the pinion which for our rigs is not really possible. In the vertical direction your angle looked fine, however, the diff and TC for our 40's do not line up laterally, so there will always be a small amount of misalignment. Because you say your vibration is off-throttle only I doubt the lateral alignment is causing your vibration. For comparison ... I do not have zero vibration in my driveline and have come to accept there will always be a little, but it is constant rather than on/off throttle.

 

[jamesurq]

Thanks Rice. 2 degree shims. Visually I think it could benefit from a bit more angle. I'll have to remeasure it and see. The pinion bearing was definitely squeaky clean with computer printed part numbers on it. So clearly not the original.