TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (14 Viewers)

[jfz80]

Installed metal tech ac unit in 45 this afternoon.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Oh yeah.

Can you take me for a ride with those doors on? I'm interested to see what it's like having the top of the door that low.

 

[jfz80]

BYORS

(Bring your own ratchet strap)

Sure thing. But I got to work some on that latch. And then pass seatbelt

They definitely were not a bolt on affair. Some modding to make the latches fit in doors (clearancing for pivot pin) and then pass side is too long for opening so new catch fabbed. Hate having to break the seal on new powder coating Wonder if all the metal tech units are like this or these are an earlier run. Just seems some tolerances were to close. They have been under the bEd for several years

Thanks for the hinges @GarnerFJ40

 

[jamesurq]

So for the more mechanically inclined, a few quick questions: I'm changing out my tie rod ends (1969 FJ40), all of them.

1 - any advice? Should I be warming up the blowtorch to get the nuts loose or just penetrating oil?
2 - Any special tools that I might need?
3 - Will this effect the alignment?

Thanks!

 

[NCFJ]

1.Soak it well in pen oil first. torch is the last resort
2.SOmething like this helps http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7315A-Universal-Tie-Remover/dp/B000F5LJ3M?tag=ihco-20
3.If you match lengths you'll match the alignment you have now, take measurements before you take it apart. An alignment afterward would not be a bad thing

 

[Rice]

So for the more mechanically inclined, a few quick questions: I'm changing out my tie rod ends (1969 FJ40), all of them.

1 - any advice? Should I be warming up the blowtorch to get the nuts loose or just penetrating oil?
2 - Any special tools that I might need?
3 - Will this effect the alignment?

Thanks!

No special tools, but there is a trick to it.

Nuts should come right off without trouble unless the ball is spinning in the socket. If that happens drill and pin the ball/socket with a screw (with a skinny enough pair of vice grips you can also grab and hold it at the grease boot). Once the nut is off it's time to separate TRE from the steering knuckle arm. Slip a crow bar in there and apply pressure to pry the two apart. Simultaneously take a BFH and hit the outside of the KNUCKLE, not the tie rod end. About 4 solid hits and it will pop out.

Some folks say count the threads so the new guy can go on and match. This can fail since the new threads and shaft can be almost any length. Instead you wish to measure from a fixed point on the tie rod to the center of the TRE. Be sure to measure before unscrewing the old one.

That's all there is.

EDIT: Do not want this post to supersede what Stan said. He and I were typing at the same time.

 

[onemanarmy]

I'd get a pickle fork from the nearest auto parts store...worked good for me.

I just measured the total length of the rods with the rod ends on them and matched the new ones to that. With worn out, no-power steering, I can't tell a difference with the alignment, but the steering itself is a bit tighter.

 

[roadstr6]

DIY alignment: You'll need two push pins and a tape measure. Push a pin in the tread of each front tire (don't puncture the tire) at the most forward facing point of the tire. Take a measurement between the pins. Write it down. Back or roll the truck backwards until the pins are at the rearmost facing point. Take a measurement. Write it down. If the front measurement is longer than the back, you are towed out. If the back measurement is longer than the front you are towed in. Generally you want about 1/4" of tow in. Adjust your tie rod to get it towed in by 1/4". Buy more beer with the money you just saved vs. getting an alignment shop to do basically the same thing you just did.

Tow is the only adjustment that a shop can make on a 40. Caster can only be done by shims or wedges between the springs and front axle (shops don't have these). There is no camber adjustment on a 40.

 

[jamesurq]

Thanks all for the advice!

 

[jamesurq]

Rice helped me muddle my way through the tie rod end install, and in return I did some grunting and wire brushing while he worked on his bumper. I was able to watch the process through my phone (so I didn't burn my eyes so I figured why not snap a few.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

@Rice what are you doing to that ARB, modifying with heavier duty recovery points?

 

[Rice]

@Rice what are you doing to that ARB, modifying with heavier duty recovery points?

Pictures and write-up for TWT pending. Primary mission is mounting winch to my non-winch ARB and also heavy duty recovery points while I'm in there. One of the clevis mounts is sitting on the saw horse in James' second photo to get an idea what I'm up to.

 

[erymer]

BYORS

(Bring your own ratchet strap)

Sure thing. But I got to work some on that latch. And then pass seatbelt

They definitely were not a bolt on affair. Some modding to make the latches fit in doors (clearancing for pivot pin) and then pass side is too long for opening so new catch fabbed. Hate having to break the seal on new powder coating Wonder if all the metal tech units are like this or these are an earlier run. Just seems some tolerances were to close. They have been under the bEd for several years

Thanks for the hinges @GarnerFJ40

View attachment 1079917

Sweet Baby Jesus that statement scares me for some reason. No idea why......

 

[Rice]

A partial description of latest project .... A winch that was stolen years ago magically was returned to me so it seemed logical to cut up my non-winch ARB to mount it. More on the winch later. That part of the project is close to completion save for getting the solenoid box mounted and finish making up some new cables.

Here is before:

The second part of the project relates to our conversation regarding recovery points and none of us caring for the attachment points on the stock ARB. So I hit Amazon and picked up some extra long clevis mounts.

Link: http://www.amazon.com/Chassis-Unlim...8&qid=1434159004&sr=8-2&keywords=clevis+mount

Because the winch was going in at the same time I also picked up a universal winch cradle from Summit Racing.

The winch cradle was too wide to fit between the frame rails so I cut about 4.5 inches from each side. The sections cut from the cradle are now going to be used to scab the clevis mounts to the bumper.

 

[Rice]

Part II .... After cutting an opening in the bumper the clevis mount can slide into place.

And become permanent:

And poke just a little out the other side:

And here is where things are now:

Not much more to add. I'll detail some of the winch stuff later but non-winch ARB conversions are not really new, aside from a couple things I tossed in to beef up the strength a bit.

 

[NCFJ]

Looks good Rice, well done!

 

[joyRidaz]

Installed a new rears lens on my drivers side care of @coinoperated40.

No more water leakage through missing plastic sections.

Thanks a bunch @coinoperated40! I really appreciate it.

After:

Before:

 

[Roxx]

Did it over facetime.

 

[JohnVee]

View attachment 1092115View attachment 1092116

Did it over facetime.

You did what while you weren't helping me?

 

[JohnVee]

Teaser shot. Something's missing... Well, two things.