40LandCruising
Anderson
I just need to stock up on Jettas, they fit like a gloveThat's a tight fit at the ceiling. Have you considered racing vintage English iron? Much closer to the floor
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (24 Viewers)
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40LandCruising
Anderson
Ive about for the head off the 80, all that's left is the intake cam shaft and the head bolts. But the cam orientation has me stumped. From the FSM and OTTRAM YouTube video, they say to orient the 2 dots on the cam gear to 25° from horizontal, so the cam lobes on the #1 and #4 cylinders are pressing equally on the lifters. Well unless I'm really missing something it's far from that. Cyl 1 the lobes are straight down into the lifter, and 4 the lobes are about to hit the lifters but not yet.
For removal I'm fine as long as both cyl 1 and cyl 4 lobes are pressing equally on the lifters correct?
For removal I'm fine as long as both cyl 1 and cyl 4 lobes are pressing equally on the lifters correct?
40LandCruising
Anderson
If I flip it 25° up from Horizontal, the opposite of the illustration in the FSM, I get this, which I'd still like to tweak some but is better with both heels hitting lifters
40LandCruising
Anderson
Update I think what I was missing was that while the FSM refecrens how the cam lobes are on just cyl 1 and 4, really its the respective orientation of all the ones because all the lifters are pressing up not just those 2 cylinders
40LandCruising
Anderson
Got the head off and am relaxing clean and with a cold snack now,
Overall pleased with the internal condition of the motor. Cylinders still have good crosshatching, and there is a ring ridge but nothing unexpected for a 230K mile motor.
Absolutely no sludge whatsoever which is great.
No glaringly apparent blow in the HG, but there is a small spot by a water jacket on cyl6 that looks like it might've been damaged. I'm orettt sure it's blown based off the 1/2 gallon of coolant consumption in half a tank of gas with no leaks. But even if it wasn't I'm happy to do it as preventative maintenance! Dropping the head off at the machine shop Thursday.
Overall pleased with the internal condition of the motor. Cylinders still have good crosshatching, and there is a ring ridge but nothing unexpected for a 230K mile motor.
Absolutely no sludge whatsoever which is great.
No glaringly apparent blow in the HG, but there is a small spot by a water jacket on cyl6 that looks like it might've been damaged. I'm orettt sure it's blown based off the 1/2 gallon of coolant consumption in half a tank of gas with no leaks. But even if it wasn't I'm happy to do it as preventative maintenance! Dropping the head off at the machine shop Thursday.
Three exhaust systems to get to something useable.
A friend and I build the first one before my front driveshaft was done, crossover was way too close once installed. Ended up hitting even just around town, so that was a problem from the start. It also had some Cooks stainless race truck mufflers he got from work that were insanely loud. at all times. Corner exits that had issues on the road with exhaust coming back into the cab.
Went to Muffler Masters in Kannapolis- super nice and nice work- suggested a two into one Flowmaster with a single 3" out. Rebuilt the entire thing from the headers back with smaller tubing to help with a pretty bad exhaust smell. The thought was to get a better velocity on the exhaust...well that didn't really work. While better, it was still dumb loud in the woods and still had an issue with exhaust coming back into the cab.
Third time- went to Muffler Masters in Statesville with a pair of old school Thrush Turbo mufflers like I am in a 1975 Camaro with duals where everyone told me to put them in the first place....and it is perfect. Lesson learned. MM in Statesville had it done in two days- would not leave my truck outside as they wanted to lock it inside, and came in under quote by $80. Will def go back. They tucked them up super close to the floor and back far enough to not be heat issue.
A friend and I build the first one before my front driveshaft was done, crossover was way too close once installed. Ended up hitting even just around town, so that was a problem from the start. It also had some Cooks stainless race truck mufflers he got from work that were insanely loud. at all times. Corner exits that had issues on the road with exhaust coming back into the cab.
Went to Muffler Masters in Kannapolis- super nice and nice work- suggested a two into one Flowmaster with a single 3" out. Rebuilt the entire thing from the headers back with smaller tubing to help with a pretty bad exhaust smell. The thought was to get a better velocity on the exhaust...well that didn't really work. While better, it was still dumb loud in the woods and still had an issue with exhaust coming back into the cab.
Third time- went to Muffler Masters in Statesville with a pair of old school Thrush Turbo mufflers like I am in a 1975 Camaro with duals where everyone told me to put them in the first place....and it is perfect. Lesson learned. MM in Statesville had it done in two days- would not leave my truck outside as they wanted to lock it inside, and came in under quote by $80. Will def go back. They tucked them up super close to the floor and back far enough to not be heat issue.
I got the lift on the 40 this weekend. Added a bit of height and a whole lot of comfort.
She's drives real nice
She's drives real nice
Bolted on the new wheels and tires for the first time. The rear quarters are gonna need some work before the first outing, lol
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
...looks aerodynamically sound to me. That rear door sill looks close, though.
40LandCruising
Anderson
Anyone here found a good way to block the exhaust gas from circulating through the back of a 1FZ-FE head?
I know i can disable the EGR by looping the vacuum line, and i can remove it and make a block off plate for the intake and the intake side of the head. But there will still be exhaust passing through the back of the head.
So my thoughts are get aftermarket manifolds/mufflers that don't have an EGR provision, attempt to weld up the passage in the factory cast manifold, or get someone to tig the hole in the head up, but unsure if that'll put too much heat in a concentrated area of the head.
I know i can disable the EGR by looping the vacuum line, and i can remove it and make a block off plate for the intake and the intake side of the head. But there will still be exhaust passing through the back of the head.
So my thoughts are get aftermarket manifolds/mufflers that don't have an EGR provision, attempt to weld up the passage in the factory cast manifold, or get someone to tig the hole in the head up, but unsure if that'll put too much heat in a concentrated area of the head.
If it were me, I'd machine a plug out of a similar aluminum alloy and drive it in there, then peen the edges. You could weld the plug in there too, but I'd be wary of welding on it for fear of cracking.
Could counter-bore a section out so the flange of the plug sits behind the exhaust manifold, which would hold it in place and prevent it from sinking into the head too.
I just used the "keychain" block off plate that Shetsend used to sell. I think Delta may have picked them up.
40LandCruising
Anderson
Isn't that for blocking off the port on the other side of the head where the tube that goes to the EGR valve attaches?
40LandCruising
Anderson
My buddy brought up the point at work that with the other side of the head blocked off where the exhaust exits, while gas can still travel into the head, it isn't circulating like normal so it would be a greatly reduced rate. So even without blocking off this side should improve it.
But I am still thinking, I like the idea of a plug but the passage does go off at an angle from the side of the head so a little tricky. Wonder if they make high temp JB weld lol
It was a joke but just discovered it is actually a thing, rated for 1,000° F
40LandCruising
Anderson
Another idea is preheat the crap out of the cast manifold, weld up the 'channel' in it, machine the mounting surface flat, then use a front manifold gasket and just slot it for one bolt that doesn't line up
You can weld the cast manifold pretty easily. You're gonna have to spend some time flattening it afterwards though with a belt sander or a surface plate of sorts, but it'll work. Preheat before (look up how much, probably around 500*) and let it cool real slow by wrapping it up tight, and it should be fine. Ive welded a number of cast manifolds for my engine like that and I havent had any cracking.
But also, because of the gasket, there will be some space between the manifold and the head when tightened down. Just be aware of that.
But also, because of the gasket, there will be some space between the manifold and the head when tightened down. Just be aware of that.
40LandCruising
Anderson
I'm a little confused what you mean by space between the head and manifold when tightened, shouldn't the gasket
Be occupying the same amount of space as usual?
The part that you're proposing to weld up in the manifold will be flat. That part isn't covered by the gasket, so there will be a narrow space that exhaust gasses can pass between the weld and the head.
I'm pretty sure DELTA is selling all of the blocking plates you need to delete the EGR.
I just spent the time and $$ replacing my EGR valves and hoses, then found the plates!
I just spent the time and $$ replacing my EGR valves and hoses, then found the plates!
