TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (4 Viewers)

[40LandCruising]

Well the drivetrain is out. Was an absolute bear.

Before I started I considered removing the condenser and core support but said nah it'll be fine. It was in fact not fine. Ended up removing it while the engine was halfway over it. Bumper has already been removed in preparation for the install. I'm gonna try and make it as easy as possible.

At one point we ran out of height and the engine was over the bumper, but the hoist was stuck on the garage door. So we balanced the entire drivetrain on the bumper, while I held the tcase in a sleeper hold while standing in the engine bay. My buddy Sam completely disconnected the engine hoist and choked up on the chain while I held it. And I didn't even die.

Will be buying a new ram for the engine hoist before the install, this one is dying. I'm honestly shocked it made it through the removal.

 

[40LandCruising]

And yes I laid in a lake of coolant on my garage floor so most of this removal I was shirtless - gotta put on a show for the neighbors

 

[40LandCruising]

As you can see my transmission is absolutely nasty. What I'm tryna figure out are the common leaks for the trans and tcase. '94 80. Since the whole top of the trans is wet I'm thinking a lot of it was maybe running down from the engine.

Plan to do a filter and pan gasket, maybe split the tcase off the back and reseal it. I need to look into it more. But am open to any suggestions

 

[40LandCruising]

I have absolutely defiled myself with the pressure washer but big improvement in the engine bay. It was miserable to work on. All PS leak related. I'm replacing the high pressure line and all the low pressure power steering lines, as well as the trans cooler rubber lines. And I have a new pump to install.

Might as well throw a derale style PS cooler on there in place of the factory 'paper clip' cooler.

Gonna go ahead and replace the AC condenser, drier, and expansion valve. Thing has an almost new Denso compressor on i, And back in high school I replaced the high pressure discharge line. But also smashed the drier on a tree. And the condenser looks pretty rough too. It looks like it's just the bottom row of fins, so it should probably still work. But I also really don't feel like ripping the front end back apart if it leaks.

 

[Malleus]

If the pressure washer took the gunk off the transmisison, it was engine oil. ATF won't come off that easily, without a solvent. I'd bet it was the upper/lower pan seal...first in line of the usual suspects.

I'd look no farther than the rear extension housing seal and the transfer/transmission seal. If you're feeling like you absolutely have to open the transmission, pull the valve body and replace the two little seals on the manual shift lever. You also need the roll pin and collar on the shaft, if you're going to do this.

If you have it open, and I'm not recommending you open it just for this, but...when you pull the valve body off to reseal the manual shaft, pull out the unit repair manual and check (measure) the movement on the various clutch packs. This will tell you how much life you have left in the transmission, before it has to be rebuilt.

 

[Malleus]

Well the drivetrain is out. Was an absolute bear.

Before I started I considered removing the condenser and core support but said nah it'll be fine. It was in fact not fine. Ended up removing it while the engine was halfway over it. Bumper has already been removed in preparation for the install. I'm gonna try and make it as easy as possible.

At one point we ran out of height and the engine was over the bumper, but the hoist was stuck on the garage door. So we balanced the entire drivetrain on the bumper, while I held the tcase in a sleeper hold while standing in the engine bay. My buddy Sam completely disconnected the engine hoist and choked up on the chain while I held it. And I didn't even die.

Will be buying a new ram for the engine hoist before the install, this one is dying. I'm honestly shocked it made it through the removal.

View attachment 3893179

View attachment 3893180

If you haven't bear hugged your transfer case, you don't really love your 80.

 

[40LandCruising]

If the pressure washer took the gunk off the transmisison, it was engine oil. ATF won't come off that easily, without a solvent. I'd bet it was the upper/lower pan seal...first in line of the usual suspects.

I'd look no farther than the rear extension housing seal and the transfer/transmission seal. If you're feeling like you absolutely have to open the transmission, pull the valve body and replace the two little seals on the manual shift lever. You also need the roll pin and collar on the shaft, if you're going to do this.

If you have it open, and I'm not recommending you open it just for this, but...when you pull the valve body off to reseal the manual shaft, pull out the unit repair manual and check (measure) the movement on the various clutch packs. This will tell you how much life you have left in the transmission, before it has to be rebuilt.

The pressure washer took it off, but it certainly wasn't easy lol. And I did use some simple green and also LA's totally awesome degreaser. But given that it was up so high on the trans I do think it was engine oil running down mostly. Which the engine pan seal doesn't look as wet as expected. But gotta be pulled off anyways. Doing a rear main and timing set since I broke a guide with the engine hoist.

Don't plan to open the trans at all, besides to stick a filter and pan gasket on it.

I think I need output seals on the tcase too, which haven't looked into it much. But does appear it's not as easy as a minitruck case where you just pull the flange off from
The outside.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Pablo got a new (functional) starter today. Not great access to the bolts and connections despite being on the bottom.

 

[Malleus]

The pressure washer took it off, but it certainly wasn't easy lol. And I did use some simple green and also LA's totally awesome degreaser. But given that it was up so high on the trans I do think it was engine oil running down mostly. Which the engine pan seal doesn't look as wet as expected. But gotta be pulled off anyways. Doing a rear main and timing set since I broke a guide with the engine hoist.

Don't plan to open the trans at all, besides to stick a filter and pan gasket on it.

I think I need output seals on the tcase too, which haven't looked into it much. But does appear it's not as easy as a minitruck case where you just pull the flange off from
The outside.

There's no pan gasket; it's FIPG. No filter either.

The seals on the transfer case are not trivial.

 

[40LandCruising]

There's no pan gasket; it's FIPG. No filter either.

The seals on the transfer case are not trivial.

Did not realize there was no gasket on the trans, or no filter. Really makes me wonder what I ordered then lol. To be investigated

I ordered Oem trans output, tcase input, and front and rear tcase output seals. I did some looking at it is definitely more of a process to replace the output seals than on like a 40 case, but I'll knock it out. My rear tcase output is pretty bad so needs to be addressed. Might replace the output bearing too.

 

[40LandCruising]

Looked up the part number(58603) on the Wix website for what I ordered on Rock Auto, and it claims to be for an A442F. So maybe they used filters and gaskets in other applications of the trans. It is very intriguing.

But if you look up 1994 LANDCRUISER in their database, it also claims there is a trans filter, but a differnt one. That's for a A343F. So unsure why it even comes up for a '94. But seems like their whole system is confused.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Iirc the hf2av output shaft preload (front and rear) is set with shims, meaning you can remove the companion flanges (where the driveshafts bolt on) and reinstall them without any setup. Just need to hit the torque value.

 

[40LandCruising]

Iirc the hf2av output shaft preload (front and rear) is set with shims, meaning you can remove the companion flanges (where the driveshafts bolt on) and reinstall them without any setup. Just need to hit the torque value.

Good to know, wish it was an external nut and you just popped the flange off like a mini truck case. But glad it isn't any special preload deal. I'll check into that more

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Good to know, wish it was an external nut and you just popped the flange off like a mini truck case. But glad it isn't any special preload deal. I'll check into that more

Def double check, it's been a while since I've been in one. Iirc the roller taper bearing's preload is set by the case, with shims behind the races, like the split case. If so, you're good to go.

 

[40LandCruising]

Def double check, it's been a while since I've been in one. Iirc the roller taper bearing's preload is set by the case, with shims behind the races, like the split case. If so, you're good to go.

Thanks for the lead!

 

[Malleus]

The "filter" they list is a strainer. It never need to be replaced, unless you step on it after you remove it, and even then, I'd just straighten it out.

The non-US pans (I think the ones assembed in Venezuela) were mounted with a gasket. You can do either. My preference would be FIPG, because the pan is really, really thin sheet and warps easily.

Both comments apply to A442F and A343F.

 

[40LandCruising]

Finally got some progress at the machine shop on my cylinder head. Kevin Bush (Bush's Automotive Machine Clemmons, NC) does a phenomenal job, but don't expect anything fast.

Kevin was surprised I brought him something decent this time. Last machine work he did for me was my absolutely destroyed 22R I inherited from @HENDOG when I bought the brown '82 pickup.

Kevin said the head is pretty dang flat still. But it definitely popped a HG, surprisingly on Cylinder 1. But glad to know he confirmed I didn't pull the head for no reason.

Plan is clean the head, surface the head, valve stem seals, lap the valves, check adjustment, and back in she goes.

Got my big Partsouq order a couple days ago. 14 brand new Oem head bolts, a bunch of gaskets, and a Japanese OSK timing set.

I'm out of town the next 2 weekends, and house stuff has kept me slammed during the week. But starting Memorial Day weekend it's game time getting this crap put back together.

 

[NCFJ]

A few more punch list items and it is going home

 

[White Stripe]

Finally got some progress at the machine shop on my cylinder head. Kevin Bush (Bush's Automotive Machine Clemmons, NC) does a phenomenal job, but don't expect anything fast.

Kevin was surprised I brought him something decent this time. Last machine work he did for me was my absolutely destroyed 22R I inherited from @HENDOG when I bought the brown '82 pickup.

Kevin said the head is pretty dang flat still. But it definitely popped a HG, surprisingly on Cylinder 1. But glad to know he confirmed I didn't pull the head for no reason.

Plan is clean the head, surface the head, valve stem seals, lap the valves, check adjustment, and back in she goes.

Got my big Partsouq order a couple days ago. 14 brand new Oem head bolts, a bunch of gaskets, and a Japanese OSK timing set.

I'm out of town the next 2 weekends, and house stuff has kept me slammed during the week. But starting Memorial Day weekend it's game time getting this crap put back together.

Good time to replace all hoses for the rear heater. I always do a basic port and polish if I have a cylinder head off, more horsepower is always nice. I would do the rear main seal, front crank seal, and upper and lower oil pan gaskets. Probably a new timing chain and guides too.

 

[40LandCruising]

Good time to replace all hoses for the rear heater. I always do a basic port and polish if I have a cylinder head off, more horsepower is always nice. I would do the rear main seal, front crank seal, and upper and lower oil pan gaskets. Probably a new timing chain and guides too.

Plan to replace all the heater hoses, they are only 30K miles/6 years old, but cheap insurance.

And I have the entire drivetrain out and I'll be resealing the entire engine. And have a complete timing set as well.

As far as the port and polish, probably won't since I'm on a tight timeline with the machine work