Yup
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (18 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
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most excellent, TY!
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I always have. You only need the inspection to get your plate/sticker.
aha, I must have had things out of order then, ty!
for an 80 series, how many uses would this get?
www.harborfreight.com
I am debating buying one because I know I will need to replace a rear stud
Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
I am debating buying one because I know I will need to replace a rear stud
fourtrax
SILVER Star
overkill for one stud. bring your hub to my house is you want it pressed in. other then control arm bushings you wont need a press for an 80 alone.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
a thousand and one -for an 80 series, how many uses would this get?
Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
I am debating buying one because I know I will need to replace a rear stud
wheel bearings, steering linkage bushings, power steering pump, alternator; that's just off the top of my head.
But, if you know someone who wants to let you work out of their garage, you're money ahead. The only problem with that is if you have a problem, your problem is their problem, until it's fixed. Personally, I wouldn't want even an occasional driver stuck at someone else's house, but that's just me. I bought my son a 12-ton, used, for $35. Money well spent.
Fortunately, this is a weekend driver for me, I would not want to leave a parts heap at someones house
I'll get flamed for saying this, but it's easy to knock out a broken stud and pull in a new one with only a lug nut and a stack of washers. I know you're not "supposed" to do it this way, but I have done it many times with zero issues. I have a shop press, yet I prefer to do it this way if at all possible. If I am doing a bunch of them...for instance if I am changing out rotors on a 40 or 60, I'll take them over to the press to do it, but for one lug? No.
Hammering them out and in is the preferred way to go without a press. For one stud only, i totally agree, not worth buying a press.
we will see how bad my "while I am in there" itis acts up, I did order enough studs to replace the rear ones.
The DMV went the easiest today (had the needed paperwork to get things going)
I now need to fix the parking brake / do a heap more of stuff all in 10 days (duration of temp tags):
To do list:
Fix rear axle seals so no more diff oil escapes / ruins all of the below: (parts on order)
Replace rear rotors / pads (both are shot / coated in oil)
Fix parking brake (new shoes / de-greasing will hopefully work) (need to order parking brake shoes)
Make the O2 sensor in the rear STFU long enough for an inspection
Replace the rear studs since they are pretty beat
Pass NC inspection
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Do check the vent cap on the rear pumpkin. When it clogs, pressure builds and forces gear oil out the axle seals. Don't just put in new seals without ensuring that the vent is venting or else you may have to do it all again and ain't nobody got time for that!
winner winner!
The rear one was clogged, I shook all of the sand out of it :|
Going to try and spray down the rear axle on that side again, bathe everything in brakleen, and see if that works
When I went to look at the front one, I saw more "repairs" with the transmission cooler lines that will need fixing
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Clearing the clogged vent may not fix the issue. Once the seals are compromised, lots of times they continue to leak. It’s worth a try, but keeping the vents breathing is key to a leak-free future.winner winner!
The rear one was clogged, I shook all of the sand out of it :|
Going to try and spray down the rear axle on that side again, bathe everything in brakleen, and see if that works
When I went to look at the front one, I saw more "repairs" with the transmission cooler lines that will need fixing
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
going to be doing some breather extensions with various bits of hoses / filters, going to try and route the rear up to the gas cap, and then the front up to the firewall (along with transmission / transfer cases too)
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I just did this last month (I'm still chasing a hot disc problem I think is a sticking pad) and I have a full set of parking brake parts (the ones outside the cover plate), freshly cleaned and ready to install, if you need them. LMK
Just a piece of free advice, since I've gone through this problem on two of my three 80s in less than a year, fully soak the parking brake lever from the back of the backing plate (pull the boot back first) for a couple of days before you start disassembly. When you can operate the brake shoes by hand from the back (using the cable) you're ready to take it apart. If you don't do this first, you'll wish you had. This isn't in the FSM because the FSM wasn't written for 30 year old trucks with lots of crap in the works.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
someone needs to save that
Seriously what does a pick n Pull charge for an entire rig?
If it's not already gone, it will be by tomorrow morning... cough cough Dave and/Rafael
