TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (7 Viewers)

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Is there another way to adapt the speedo? I wanna say I remember reading about a gear that used to be available for the TC end. I ask because I’m on 33’s and my speedo matches my GPS and also the speedo on Sarah’s old stock Lexus car, and I have no adapter like that on the TC side OR the cluster side.
 
After nearly a decade of running a non-stock tire size being unable to rely on my speedometer (a risky move in my strict small town), I finally purchased and installed an adapter. Note: if you’re not careful and the cable slides out of the cluster, this becomes a two person job.

HERE is an old thread on the topic. With inflation, today’s cost for the adapter was $95 and shipping was an additional $11. I placed the order on 4/29/20 and the box arrived an impressive two days later.

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Which adapter is that?
 
Oh sh!t. Somethings finally happening.

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Is there another way to adapt the speedo? I wanna say I remember reading about a gear that used to be available for the TC end. I ask because I’m on 33’s and my speedo matches my GPS and also the speedo on Sarah’s old stock Lexus car, and I have no adapter like that on the TC side OR the cluster side.
Yes, I’ve read you can purchase a gear from Mr T. While it’s likely less than half what I paid, I’m sure the install would have been far more involved.
 
Oh sh!t. Somethings finally happening.
AND... I have to once again publicly thank @roadstr6 for being generous enough to lovingly blast each of those wheels for me. And for hitting them with enough primer to stop them from rusting in the 8 months they've been sitting in the back of Sarah's 450 while we waited for the weather to cooperate. That's right - I said "lovingly blast"; can't think of anywhere else that might ever have been said in peacetime.
 
The past few years my welder sat outside in NC. I could tell it was harder to get a good ground. Serviced and cleaned It up. Replaced the ground contacts and lubricated every thing. Now to burn in some caster plates. :clap:

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Doing 80 half doors. Lots of people have been hating on it so far on Facebook but I’m personally loving it and loving the outcome of it. I have mad respect for people that do body work after welding this up. Far from done though. Needs a few more pieces and needs a cup holder in the door to fit a yeti lol.
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Maybe shoulda taken out the door handle? :lol:

I LOVE it man. Question though, why did you decide to keep the window frame?
 
Maybe shoulda taken out the door handle? :lol:

I LOVE it man. Question though, why did you decide to keep the window frame?
Thanks man! Couple reasons for that. 1. I want to retain the factory mirror so I want support for that. 2. I want it there to keep the whole door stiff on that side and not all crazy. 3. I would love to build a snap on canvas top for it so If I do get stuck in rain i can throw it on and it will still be water tight since retaining factory gaskets
 
Doing 80 half doors. Lots of people have been hating on it so far on Facebook but I’m personally loving it and loving the outcome of it. I have mad respect for people that do body work after welding this up. Far from done though. Needs a few more pieces and needs a cup holder in the door to fit a yeti lol. View attachment 2298173View attachment 2298174View attachment 2298175View attachment 2298176View attachment 2298177


Yeah not sure why the hate on the FB posts, half doors look great on most wheelers.

Only seen a hand full of them on 80s before.

nice job so far.

Oh yeah and do the cup holder mod that Rice mentioned.

:cheers:
 
Rebuilt and installed the t-case I got from @AJR and left these out.
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Being stuck at home gave me the motivation I needed to cut out over 2" in the support legs of my OPOR sliders. Now they don't remind me of outriggers or curb feelers.
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Well I’m almost finished. Got the other door cut up and welded up and I threw on some white paint. Hated it so I threw on some black paint and it’s much better. Need to wire in the passenger door speaker into the factory harness and then make cup holders and put some foam on the inside.
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they do from the inside
 
So on our last group trip to 40 acre rock, ‘Ol Bucky drove great...better than ever really...except that when I got home the battery was hissing and smelled like rotten eggs. Hmmmm.... I quickly disconnected the battery and let it sit for a while. Once it stopped spewing putrid fumes I put a meter on it to check voltage. Battery was at 14 volts so it was obviously overcharging. My rear power window had been setting up/down speed records all day...I guess that should have been my first indication of a problem. Checked the voltage regulator. Found burned wires. Started digging into the harness...more burned wires. I finally found the culprit. 12v “big” wire from alternator to starter had been butt spliced by a PO long ago. Butt splice failed, heated up and melted into the voltage regulator ground wire, basically energizing the ground and melting that ground wire through much of the harness. Several other wires became collateral damage. It has been a fun week of ‘lectrical wrenching for me. Hopefully I’ll get everything back to normal this week. I will miss that super fast rear window though. I guess some things just aren’t meant to be.

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I'm about to start tackling the inner axle seal and knuckle rebuild on my 40. I have the kit from Cruiser Brothers, bought an extra seal just in case I damage the first putting it in, have watched their videos more times than I can count, and read up on just about any thread I could find in here. Any last minute words of wisdom or advice that y'all have been holding back?
 

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